I just got a new car yesterday that will replace the one my dad gave me. It was a 1994 oldsmobile 88 that encountered some apparent ignition problem, it drives but stalls randomly on the road no misfire but as if a kill-switch was thrown,but starts right back up again, never over bumps or high speed and mostly during slow right hand turns and gets progressively worse as the fuel tank gets lower. Also the idle bounces sometimes. I have replaced everything in the car except the steering column, ignition, and the transmission. The engine,ecu,fuel injectors, coil pack, all sensors, vacuum hoses, plug wires, plugs, fuel pumps have been replaced.
For now the car has just been sitting and i came across an idea for it. The car reminded me of one of the larger sedan muscle cars, and the gears started to turn in my head. I was thinking that i can use the shell of the car as a project. There is plenty of room under the hood for a carbureted, computer independent, v8 but my question is how do i mount it, the transmission, and the rear differential, do i have to lift the car(raised suspension) to fit the tranny and diff. The floor pan of the car is not flat, it has a rather large channel straight down the middle for the exhaust. the gas tank hangs pretty low where the diff will go but i can fabricate a new one(i'll find a place to put on, mabey it and a tube frame in or below the trunk?) should i use leaf springs for the back, will that make it easier.Will i have problems with the steering column . i can easily mount and make a custom exhaust with headers. I will make other changes to the car to give if a totally unique, new era muscle look( round headlights,custom hood and paint).
Please, if you don't have an answer please don't write telling me i can't, it's not worth it, it won't be road legal. I have made up my mind that this is what i want. Please, just give this problem your best shot, and lets keep this educational.
Like i put in all my questions, do not turn this into a tuner muscle war, it happens in way to many of these.
P.S. I will be using toggle switches not a key for the ignition so don't worry about that. To do this i will probably get a donor car of similar dimensionsOldsmobile 88 project?
If you have looked under the car you will see that the only way that this can be done is to remove the olds body and place it on a chevy truck frame so that everything will fit...the undercarriage of the olds is too flat to do anything with.......
Thursday, September 22, 2011
My 1996 Honda Accord hesitating on accelerations? Vacuum leak vs transmission vs something else?
1996 Honda Accord EX 2.2L SOHC VTEC, 138,000 miles
My car has been hesitating when I press on the gas over the last few days. It gets up to right before the next gear and stays there for 4-5 seconds before it shifts. During these 4-5 seconds I will be almost flooring it but see no change in my RPMs. Its worse with inclines and hills but usually not as bad at high speeds.
The oil is ok, oxygen sensors were changed 3 months ago, and today I just changed out the spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor, PCV valve and hose, and air filter. The old plugs and cap/rotor looked good, but the old PCV valve didnt make a sound when I shook it. Overall, the tune up made it idle smoother but it still hesitates. I know I should have done the fuel filter but its way too hard to get to, and I heard its even an all day thing for pros on this year of Accord.
The people at the auto store recommended I use Seafoam and fuel injector cleaner during the tune up, but I have NOT done it yet, since Im not sure what Im dealing with.
Any way to narrow it down to see if its a vacuum leak or tranny problem or something else? And how much can it typically cost to diagnose and fix either? Im guessing the tranny will probably be way more than the car is actually worth but i dont know about vacuum systems at all. Thanks in advance.My 1996 Honda Accord hesitating on accelerations? Vacuum leak vs transmission vs something else?
sounds like classic pluged catalytic converter. But other possibilities are ignition timing, timming belt maybe jumped, or your carb if it is carbureted, needs to be rebuilt. If it is the Catalytic converter the way to tell is at night look under the car while it is running and well up to normal operating temp if the Cat is plugged it will be golden red. the rest you will need to have diagnose at you local repair shop.
I dont buy that about the fuel filter, get a second opinion but really you woulnt just lose power to a plugged filter you would have dificulty starting and stalling. I hate to say it but you also might only be running on 3 cylinders but that is worst case scenario. you need it diagnosed by someone who knows what they are doing.My 1996 Honda Accord hesitating on accelerations? Vacuum leak vs transmission vs something else?
add the stuff it is cheap enough if vacuum is cosing it, it will be your modulator valve,will be on the trans and have a rubber hose going to it if after you try seafoam and it still acts that way I would say Its a paper rubber kit,which means the trans needs to be rebuiltlock file white hair
My car has been hesitating when I press on the gas over the last few days. It gets up to right before the next gear and stays there for 4-5 seconds before it shifts. During these 4-5 seconds I will be almost flooring it but see no change in my RPMs. Its worse with inclines and hills but usually not as bad at high speeds.
The oil is ok, oxygen sensors were changed 3 months ago, and today I just changed out the spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor, PCV valve and hose, and air filter. The old plugs and cap/rotor looked good, but the old PCV valve didnt make a sound when I shook it. Overall, the tune up made it idle smoother but it still hesitates. I know I should have done the fuel filter but its way too hard to get to, and I heard its even an all day thing for pros on this year of Accord.
The people at the auto store recommended I use Seafoam and fuel injector cleaner during the tune up, but I have NOT done it yet, since Im not sure what Im dealing with.
Any way to narrow it down to see if its a vacuum leak or tranny problem or something else? And how much can it typically cost to diagnose and fix either? Im guessing the tranny will probably be way more than the car is actually worth but i dont know about vacuum systems at all. Thanks in advance.My 1996 Honda Accord hesitating on accelerations? Vacuum leak vs transmission vs something else?
sounds like classic pluged catalytic converter. But other possibilities are ignition timing, timming belt maybe jumped, or your carb if it is carbureted, needs to be rebuilt. If it is the Catalytic converter the way to tell is at night look under the car while it is running and well up to normal operating temp if the Cat is plugged it will be golden red. the rest you will need to have diagnose at you local repair shop.
I dont buy that about the fuel filter, get a second opinion but really you woulnt just lose power to a plugged filter you would have dificulty starting and stalling. I hate to say it but you also might only be running on 3 cylinders but that is worst case scenario. you need it diagnosed by someone who knows what they are doing.My 1996 Honda Accord hesitating on accelerations? Vacuum leak vs transmission vs something else?
add the stuff it is cheap enough if vacuum is cosing it, it will be your modulator valve,will be on the trans and have a rubber hose going to it if after you try seafoam and it still acts that way I would say Its a paper rubber kit,which means the trans needs to be rebuilt
Preventive Maintenance for 2000 Honda Accord?
I have a 2000 Honda Accord 4cyl 4dr sedan and recently, I have been doing some DIY preventive maintenance on my vehicle. I am doing this to get used to my vehicle and because I am also studying to be a mechanic. Anyways, I called a Honda dealer to ask them about whats due for my maintenance and they were helpful enough to enumerate what I need to do. The mileage of the vehicle is 150,000km and so far, I have done the following: oil change, brake fluid flush, auto tranny flush, coolant flush, and new brake job (new pads and rotors). One of the items I haven't done is the fuel injector clean and power steering flush. As much as possible, I don't want any non-honda product on my vehicle system. Can someone help me by giving me the procedures for the fuel injector clean and power steering flush? Does honda have their own fuel injector cleaner fluid or do they use a machine to clean it? The power steering flush, I know they have the fluid but I want to know if they use a machine or just a drain and fill. I ask how much they charge for the two maintenance but they are charging me $250 for both and I don't have that amount of $$$ right now.... Thanks for anybody's reply.Preventive Maintenance for 2000 Honda Accord?
do for you to do it your self if you want to see your mantince secdule check your owners mannual fuel injctor cleaning i hear is very complex i would advise you get a crtifed mechanic do it
love honda's
do for you to do it your self if you want to see your mantince secdule check your owners mannual fuel injctor cleaning i hear is very complex i would advise you get a crtifed mechanic do it
love honda's
How much should I expect Routine maintenance to be?
I have a Town and Country Mini Van and it has 16K miles on it. I called to make our regular oil change appointment at the dealership. We have coupons for the first 12 oil changes. We have always changed the oil every 3 months (I only drive 2K miles or so every 3 months).
So I was told I need to get the 15K mile service done and it will be $257.00. I asked what they did and they said, Engine Oil Flush, Fuel Injector Cleaner and Battery Service. I think this is a little much. What should I expect to pay for this type of service? Our other car we take to a drive through service station (Oil Stop) and I thought they did a Engine oil Flush for a lot less. Is it the same type of service? And what does a Fuel Injector Clean entail?
Any advice is appreciated. Thanks!How much should I expect Routine maintenance to be?
The cost of maintenance will depend heavily on your car, what type of mechanic you choose to take it to (expert in your make/model, dealership, quickie oil change place, etc), and your geographical location. However, what you list really sounds like you're being ripped off. No car that new should need an %26quot;engine oil flush%26quot; or a %26quot;fuel injector cleaner%26quot;, and I'm not even sure what a %26quot;battery service%26quot; is. If you're getting oil changes every 2000 miles, you're probably getting WAY more than you need.
For a car as new as yours, refer to the owner's manual for recommended service intervals. Unless you're driving in extreme conditions (very cold or very hot weather, snow, daily and excessive stop and go traffic, lots of very short trips) following those intervals should keep your car in great shape. Most newer cars I've seen recommend oil changes every 5000 or even 10000 miles. An oil change can cost anywhere from $10-15 to $100 or so if you're using synthetic oil (which lasts longer and is recommended for certain cars). You should also follow your maintenance schedule for the other more %26quot;major%26quot; services, most cars will have those recommended every 12,000 or 20,000 miles. If you're concerned about how much the dealership charges for those (and in most cases, you should be!) get a quote from a local independent mechanic for the same service. You can pick a mechanic that is AAA recommended, an expert in your car make/model, and well recommended by someone you know in your neighborhood (or well reviewed on Yelp) if you're worried about quality. It's important to know that going to a mechanic outside of the dealership during your warranty WILL NOT void your warranty as long as you do have all the recommended maintenance done. Just make sure to keep all your maintenance records in case there are ever any questions.How much should I expect Routine maintenance to be?
yes dealer maintenance is always more expenisive , i think your changing your engine oil far too often any wayHow much should I expect Routine maintenance to be?
Look in your owners manual %26amp; see what it says for a 15K service. No, you shouldn't need an engine flush unless it has 'Break-in'' oil that needs to be flushed. Service departments are generally a rip off %26amp; have been for years. Just take it to your neighborhood garage for service.How much should I expect Routine maintenance to be?
you don't need the engine flushed on your van and a can of injector cleaner at any auto parts store is only around 5 to 10 dollars and i'm sure the battery is fine also. on average batteries last 3 to 5 years or longer.How much should I expect Routine maintenance to be?
first mistake going to dealer for a oil change shouldnt need
Engine Oil Flush in 20 years just needs oil replace on time
Fuel Injector Cleaner cost like 2 bucks at any store you can just pour in yourself once a month or so to keep it clean
and Battery Service can do that anywhere take 5 minute to clean it
most batteries good for 5 yrs just cleaning and topping off
if low anyone can do that
I think this is too much as well
shouldnt be going to dealership who sells car when shops repair them oil change cost like 20 bucks many places
any shop can service a car cheaper easy to make a few phone calls to local shops really it just depend on what your cars needs are at time
but dont use a drive thru oil change they dont check much and many time just a kid or bum off street doing it any shop can do a much better job just call a few shops know what you want done get a price and some of the things you can do yourself
What do to is first stop paying for things one doesnt need learn
not to go to dealership for simple maintenance or service any name brand shop wouldnt cost 50 bucks to have a car service
knowing your cars needs is what keeps them running
knowing about you car easy to learn
wasting money if you just let a shop handle everything they in business to make money some wil do more than it needs such as add a fuel treatment two bucks engine flush waste of money even if its a old car shouldnt need it in 20 years battery service basic just cleaning it checking power of it autozone will test it for free
Fuel Injector Cleaner you can do your selfHow much should I expect Routine maintenance to be?
yes that is a bit much for what they are going to do....
I don't understand the part about %26quot;fuel injector cleaner%26quot;, you usually do this when you suspect that the injectors are clogging up (not at 16K). Are they at least going to change the fuel filter ??? for that kind of money... sheesh......How much should I expect Routine maintenance to be?
you do NOT need an engine oil flush that's a gimmick to get more money out of you an oil change is sufficient. fuel injector cleaner same thing don't need it, do it your shelf.buy the stuff at an auto place and but in your gas tank 3 bucks. batter service is a joke most are sealed and just need to be cleaned ever once in a while.How much should I expect Routine maintenance to be?
First things first - get out the user's manual that came with the car and read very carefully what the 15,000-mile service interval entails. I would be very surprised if the recommended maintenance at this mileage includes anything more than an oil change and possibly, a tire rotation. The rest of the stuff they want to charge you for sounds both excessive and unnecessary.
You should not need the oil %26quot;flush%26quot; at all. That procedure involves forcing a solvent through the lubrication channels with the engine off, to remove sludge. The car is too new for any kind of gunk to be building up in your crankcase; you would do something like this to a much older car Likewise, you should not need to do anything to your fuel injectors unless the car is running rough and your %26quot;check engine%26quot; light is on. Once again, at this mileage, it's very unlikely that there are any problems with your injectors. If you're concerned about them, try running a tank of premium gas through them, or just take the car out for a nice, long drive on the Interstate. And the %26quot;battery service%26quot; they describe probably consists of wiping off the terminals.
Once you know what Chrysler recommends for the car, contact their customer service and complain about the dealer. You can get the oil change and tire rotation done for about 50 bucks somewhere else. As long as you keep records of what was done, and you have met the factory maintenance requirements stated in the owner's manual, your warranty will remain in force.How much should I expect Routine maintenance to be?
The first thing I would do is check your owner檚 manual for the manufacturer檚 15K service recommendations.
It檚 likely that your dealership is offering to provide services above and beyond what the manufacturer recommends at 15K. They often assume most people won檛 bother comparing what the dealer檚 %26quot;15K service%26quot; includes and what檚 actually recommended by the manufacturer.
You can request that the dealer do just what檚 recommended by the manufacturer and see if the price goes down. If it doesn檛, take your business elsewhere.
I recently took my SUV to the dealer for its %26quot;30K service%26quot; based on the recommendations of the manufacturer (mostly just inspections of various items). The total was $175 including labor, supplies, and disposal. I know I probably could save a little taking it to a quick-lube shop, but I prefer being able to take care of warranty items in one stop.
So I was told I need to get the 15K mile service done and it will be $257.00. I asked what they did and they said, Engine Oil Flush, Fuel Injector Cleaner and Battery Service. I think this is a little much. What should I expect to pay for this type of service? Our other car we take to a drive through service station (Oil Stop) and I thought they did a Engine oil Flush for a lot less. Is it the same type of service? And what does a Fuel Injector Clean entail?
Any advice is appreciated. Thanks!How much should I expect Routine maintenance to be?
The cost of maintenance will depend heavily on your car, what type of mechanic you choose to take it to (expert in your make/model, dealership, quickie oil change place, etc), and your geographical location. However, what you list really sounds like you're being ripped off. No car that new should need an %26quot;engine oil flush%26quot; or a %26quot;fuel injector cleaner%26quot;, and I'm not even sure what a %26quot;battery service%26quot; is. If you're getting oil changes every 2000 miles, you're probably getting WAY more than you need.
For a car as new as yours, refer to the owner's manual for recommended service intervals. Unless you're driving in extreme conditions (very cold or very hot weather, snow, daily and excessive stop and go traffic, lots of very short trips) following those intervals should keep your car in great shape. Most newer cars I've seen recommend oil changes every 5000 or even 10000 miles. An oil change can cost anywhere from $10-15 to $100 or so if you're using synthetic oil (which lasts longer and is recommended for certain cars). You should also follow your maintenance schedule for the other more %26quot;major%26quot; services, most cars will have those recommended every 12,000 or 20,000 miles. If you're concerned about how much the dealership charges for those (and in most cases, you should be!) get a quote from a local independent mechanic for the same service. You can pick a mechanic that is AAA recommended, an expert in your car make/model, and well recommended by someone you know in your neighborhood (or well reviewed on Yelp) if you're worried about quality. It's important to know that going to a mechanic outside of the dealership during your warranty WILL NOT void your warranty as long as you do have all the recommended maintenance done. Just make sure to keep all your maintenance records in case there are ever any questions.How much should I expect Routine maintenance to be?
yes dealer maintenance is always more expenisive , i think your changing your engine oil far too often any wayHow much should I expect Routine maintenance to be?
Look in your owners manual %26amp; see what it says for a 15K service. No, you shouldn't need an engine flush unless it has 'Break-in'' oil that needs to be flushed. Service departments are generally a rip off %26amp; have been for years. Just take it to your neighborhood garage for service.How much should I expect Routine maintenance to be?
you don't need the engine flushed on your van and a can of injector cleaner at any auto parts store is only around 5 to 10 dollars and i'm sure the battery is fine also. on average batteries last 3 to 5 years or longer.How much should I expect Routine maintenance to be?
first mistake going to dealer for a oil change shouldnt need
Engine Oil Flush in 20 years just needs oil replace on time
Fuel Injector Cleaner cost like 2 bucks at any store you can just pour in yourself once a month or so to keep it clean
and Battery Service can do that anywhere take 5 minute to clean it
most batteries good for 5 yrs just cleaning and topping off
if low anyone can do that
I think this is too much as well
shouldnt be going to dealership who sells car when shops repair them oil change cost like 20 bucks many places
any shop can service a car cheaper easy to make a few phone calls to local shops really it just depend on what your cars needs are at time
but dont use a drive thru oil change they dont check much and many time just a kid or bum off street doing it any shop can do a much better job just call a few shops know what you want done get a price and some of the things you can do yourself
What do to is first stop paying for things one doesnt need learn
not to go to dealership for simple maintenance or service any name brand shop wouldnt cost 50 bucks to have a car service
knowing your cars needs is what keeps them running
knowing about you car easy to learn
wasting money if you just let a shop handle everything they in business to make money some wil do more than it needs such as add a fuel treatment two bucks engine flush waste of money even if its a old car shouldnt need it in 20 years battery service basic just cleaning it checking power of it autozone will test it for free
Fuel Injector Cleaner you can do your selfHow much should I expect Routine maintenance to be?
yes that is a bit much for what they are going to do....
I don't understand the part about %26quot;fuel injector cleaner%26quot;, you usually do this when you suspect that the injectors are clogging up (not at 16K). Are they at least going to change the fuel filter ??? for that kind of money... sheesh......How much should I expect Routine maintenance to be?
you do NOT need an engine oil flush that's a gimmick to get more money out of you an oil change is sufficient. fuel injector cleaner same thing don't need it, do it your shelf.buy the stuff at an auto place and but in your gas tank 3 bucks. batter service is a joke most are sealed and just need to be cleaned ever once in a while.How much should I expect Routine maintenance to be?
First things first - get out the user's manual that came with the car and read very carefully what the 15,000-mile service interval entails. I would be very surprised if the recommended maintenance at this mileage includes anything more than an oil change and possibly, a tire rotation. The rest of the stuff they want to charge you for sounds both excessive and unnecessary.
You should not need the oil %26quot;flush%26quot; at all. That procedure involves forcing a solvent through the lubrication channels with the engine off, to remove sludge. The car is too new for any kind of gunk to be building up in your crankcase; you would do something like this to a much older car Likewise, you should not need to do anything to your fuel injectors unless the car is running rough and your %26quot;check engine%26quot; light is on. Once again, at this mileage, it's very unlikely that there are any problems with your injectors. If you're concerned about them, try running a tank of premium gas through them, or just take the car out for a nice, long drive on the Interstate. And the %26quot;battery service%26quot; they describe probably consists of wiping off the terminals.
Once you know what Chrysler recommends for the car, contact their customer service and complain about the dealer. You can get the oil change and tire rotation done for about 50 bucks somewhere else. As long as you keep records of what was done, and you have met the factory maintenance requirements stated in the owner's manual, your warranty will remain in force.How much should I expect Routine maintenance to be?
The first thing I would do is check your owner檚 manual for the manufacturer檚 15K service recommendations.
It檚 likely that your dealership is offering to provide services above and beyond what the manufacturer recommends at 15K. They often assume most people won檛 bother comparing what the dealer檚 %26quot;15K service%26quot; includes and what檚 actually recommended by the manufacturer.
You can request that the dealer do just what檚 recommended by the manufacturer and see if the price goes down. If it doesn檛, take your business elsewhere.
I recently took my SUV to the dealer for its %26quot;30K service%26quot; based on the recommendations of the manufacturer (mostly just inspections of various items). The total was $175 including labor, supplies, and disposal. I know I probably could save a little taking it to a quick-lube shop, but I prefer being able to take care of warranty items in one stop.
1993 Honda Accord on the Fritz ... Help!!!!?
I have a 1993 Honda accord LX manual with 159k miles on her. Shes been having issues, my mechanic says,
%26quot;your fuel tank is full of crap and its sending that gunk through your fuel injection system, your injectors were so dirty I had a hell of a time cleaning them. Use fuel injection cleaner once a month%26quot;
Two fuel injector cleaners later ... I think she's dying .
Here is what she does. I'll be driving and it suddenly feels as if someone put a 2 ton rock on my car. She starts dropping velocity, and when I hit the accelerator she begins to make these %26quot;popping%26quot; sounds, and just wont accelerate, I think this is called %26quot;lag%26quot; I'm not sure.
My husband has been reading up on Hondas and has changed the EGR valve and turned down the ring in the FITV. But shes still on the fritz.
Does anyone know what to do? and if you think it is my fuel injection, system how can I take it apart to manually clean it?
~Micha~1993 Honda Accord on the Fritz ... Help!!!!?
I will be honest with you, just reading articles on the internet and trying to diagnose your car with that info rarely fixes the problem, actually it costs you more time and money in the long run just throwing parts at it attempting to fix it. I would seriously consider taking it to a reputable repair facility that does engine diagnostics to determine the source of your problem. Usually this costs an hours labor and there is no obligation to get the work done there if you elect not to. Once they find out what the problem is, decide if either you or hubby can repair or if you feel more comfortable having a shop do the repair.1993 Honda Accord on the Fritz ... Help!!!!?
check fuel pressure and exhaust system/one of them is breaking down after it gets hot1993 Honda Accord on the Fritz ... Help!!!!?
is it tuned up...find another opinion
%26quot;your fuel tank is full of crap and its sending that gunk through your fuel injection system, your injectors were so dirty I had a hell of a time cleaning them. Use fuel injection cleaner once a month%26quot;
Two fuel injector cleaners later ... I think she's dying .
Here is what she does. I'll be driving and it suddenly feels as if someone put a 2 ton rock on my car. She starts dropping velocity, and when I hit the accelerator she begins to make these %26quot;popping%26quot; sounds, and just wont accelerate, I think this is called %26quot;lag%26quot; I'm not sure.
My husband has been reading up on Hondas and has changed the EGR valve and turned down the ring in the FITV. But shes still on the fritz.
Does anyone know what to do? and if you think it is my fuel injection, system how can I take it apart to manually clean it?
~Micha~1993 Honda Accord on the Fritz ... Help!!!!?
I will be honest with you, just reading articles on the internet and trying to diagnose your car with that info rarely fixes the problem, actually it costs you more time and money in the long run just throwing parts at it attempting to fix it. I would seriously consider taking it to a reputable repair facility that does engine diagnostics to determine the source of your problem. Usually this costs an hours labor and there is no obligation to get the work done there if you elect not to. Once they find out what the problem is, decide if either you or hubby can repair or if you feel more comfortable having a shop do the repair.1993 Honda Accord on the Fritz ... Help!!!!?
check fuel pressure and exhaust system/one of them is breaking down after it gets hot1993 Honda Accord on the Fritz ... Help!!!!?
is it tuned up...find another opinion
1993 Honda Accord on the Fritz ... HELP!!!?
I have a 1993 Honda accord LX manual with 159k miles on her. Shes been having issues, my mechanic says,
%26quot;your fuel tank is full of crap and its sending that gunk through your fuel injection system, your injectors were so dirty I had a hell of a time cleaning them. Use fuel injection cleaner once a month%26quot;
Two fuel injector cleaners later ... I think she's dying .
Here is what she does. I'll be driving and it suddenly feels as if someone put a 2 ton rock on my car. She starts dropping velocity, and when I hit the accelerator she begins to make these %26quot;popping%26quot; sounds, and just wont accelerate, I think this is called %26quot;lag%26quot; I'm not sure.
My husband has been reading up on Hondas and has changed the EGR valve and turned down the ring in the FITV. But shes still on the fritz.
Does anyone know what to do? and if you think it is my fuel injection, system how can I take it apart to manually clean it?
~Micha~1993 Honda Accord on the Fritz ... HELP!!!?
Sorry, you need a new mechanic.
Unless the check engine light is comming on for an EGR code it is unlikely the problem.
Did he also clean the EGR ports in the intake manifold? If the ports are still plugged, changing the EGR valve won`t do anything.
If your fuel tank was really %26quot;full of crap%26quot; your fuel pump would be the first thing to get plugged up and the car wouldn`t even start.
I recommend getting a proper diagnosis from a honda repair technician or at the very least someone who is qualified to do driveability repairs.1993 Honda Accord on the Fritz ... HELP!!!?
It's not unheard of but your caytilic converter in your exhaust may be pluged.1993 Honda Accord on the Fritz ... HELP!!!?
If the mechanic said the tank was full of junk did they clean the tank? They should've cleaned it and put a new sock on the fuel pick-up. Also did they replace the fuel filter? Usually when the cat gets plugged your car lags all the time.
%26quot;your fuel tank is full of crap and its sending that gunk through your fuel injection system, your injectors were so dirty I had a hell of a time cleaning them. Use fuel injection cleaner once a month%26quot;
Two fuel injector cleaners later ... I think she's dying .
Here is what she does. I'll be driving and it suddenly feels as if someone put a 2 ton rock on my car. She starts dropping velocity, and when I hit the accelerator she begins to make these %26quot;popping%26quot; sounds, and just wont accelerate, I think this is called %26quot;lag%26quot; I'm not sure.
My husband has been reading up on Hondas and has changed the EGR valve and turned down the ring in the FITV. But shes still on the fritz.
Does anyone know what to do? and if you think it is my fuel injection, system how can I take it apart to manually clean it?
~Micha~1993 Honda Accord on the Fritz ... HELP!!!?
Sorry, you need a new mechanic.
Unless the check engine light is comming on for an EGR code it is unlikely the problem.
Did he also clean the EGR ports in the intake manifold? If the ports are still plugged, changing the EGR valve won`t do anything.
If your fuel tank was really %26quot;full of crap%26quot; your fuel pump would be the first thing to get plugged up and the car wouldn`t even start.
I recommend getting a proper diagnosis from a honda repair technician or at the very least someone who is qualified to do driveability repairs.1993 Honda Accord on the Fritz ... HELP!!!?
It's not unheard of but your caytilic converter in your exhaust may be pluged.1993 Honda Accord on the Fritz ... HELP!!!?
If the mechanic said the tank was full of junk did they clean the tank? They should've cleaned it and put a new sock on the fuel pick-up. Also did they replace the fuel filter? Usually when the cat gets plugged your car lags all the time.
I have a Volvo S80 2.4 D5 Diesel, recently it started to have a smokey exhaust, how should I fix it.?
It puts out a cloud of black smoke if I throatle it from start off and it puts out a haze of fine blue smoke sometimes if i am going up hill. its 2003 and just had its filters all changed. Any sugestions, injectors maybe or diesell pump. i added a bottle of diesel cleaner to the fuel tank it helped but next fuel tank fill it was back to it's smokey self.I have a Volvo S80 2.4 D5 Diesel, recently it started to have a smokey exhaust, how should I fix it.?
sounds like your head gasket has blown, the black and blue smoke is engine oil and fuel being burnt, i'd check your engine coolant to see if it's low or leaking, if your engine overheats you might crack or warp the head and this would be very expensive to change.
Check you engine oil level as well to see if its being burnt off.I have a Volvo S80 2.4 D5 Diesel, recently it started to have a smokey exhaust, how should I fix it.?
Check your turbo-charger fins. And everyone else is correct here. Blue means oil being burnt.
When it smokes, the fuel is not being completely burnt, because of either not enough air, or timing problems... So check air delivery, gaskets, injectors, and timing (but if youve never had a problem, disregard that).I have a Volvo S80 2.4 D5 Diesel, recently it started to have a smokey exhaust, how should I fix it.?
Black smoke is fine, it's just what diesels do: The blue could be oil though. I don't know the mileage or history of your engine, it's most likely to need injectors if it's a high mileage (over 150,000), very unlikely to be pump, could possibly be turbo bearings a bit worn.
Keep an eye on it: If it doesn't use oil, don't worry too much.. My old Nissan spews blue smoke on startup every day, but uses no oil or water, never gets any worse..
It won't be a head gasket problem.I have a Volvo S80 2.4 D5 Diesel, recently it started to have a smokey exhaust, how should I fix it.?
probably needs the pump overhauling and the injectorsI have a Volvo S80 2.4 D5 Diesel, recently it started to have a smokey exhaust, how should I fix it.?
Is this engine turbo -charged?I have a Volvo S80 2.4 D5 Diesel, recently it started to have a smokey exhaust, how should I fix it.?
Hi,
Turbo could be leaking oil into the intake system... Iv replace a few of these.. Check all of the rubber intake hoses from the inter-cooler and make sure there not bust... If they were bust you would see black soot were the air blows out the hole.. Also remove on end of one of the inter cooler hoses and look inside for oil leaking... There should be some oil in the pipe but excessive oil would indicate the turbo oil seals are leaking into the intake system...
I wouldn't think the head gaskets the problem..
GET IT REPAIRED
Iv seen some Volvo turbo diesel engines run on the oil that's leaking into the system really bad... Its a scary situation to be in... The engine revs all the way up blue smoke pores out the back and the only way to stop it is to cut off the air supply...
The customer was in with us a few weeks before getting it checked.. We told he she needs a new turbo. She said she cant afford it because she was getting a new kitchen,,
I replaced her engine after it blew while she was grabbing hey young child out of the back in a cloud of blue smoke and a roaring engine that kept going even with the keys removed
Get it checked out if i was you!!whats wrong with my wife clearing up my skin
sounds like your head gasket has blown, the black and blue smoke is engine oil and fuel being burnt, i'd check your engine coolant to see if it's low or leaking, if your engine overheats you might crack or warp the head and this would be very expensive to change.
Check you engine oil level as well to see if its being burnt off.I have a Volvo S80 2.4 D5 Diesel, recently it started to have a smokey exhaust, how should I fix it.?
Check your turbo-charger fins. And everyone else is correct here. Blue means oil being burnt.
When it smokes, the fuel is not being completely burnt, because of either not enough air, or timing problems... So check air delivery, gaskets, injectors, and timing (but if youve never had a problem, disregard that).I have a Volvo S80 2.4 D5 Diesel, recently it started to have a smokey exhaust, how should I fix it.?
Black smoke is fine, it's just what diesels do: The blue could be oil though. I don't know the mileage or history of your engine, it's most likely to need injectors if it's a high mileage (over 150,000), very unlikely to be pump, could possibly be turbo bearings a bit worn.
Keep an eye on it: If it doesn't use oil, don't worry too much.. My old Nissan spews blue smoke on startup every day, but uses no oil or water, never gets any worse..
It won't be a head gasket problem.I have a Volvo S80 2.4 D5 Diesel, recently it started to have a smokey exhaust, how should I fix it.?
probably needs the pump overhauling and the injectorsI have a Volvo S80 2.4 D5 Diesel, recently it started to have a smokey exhaust, how should I fix it.?
Is this engine turbo -charged?I have a Volvo S80 2.4 D5 Diesel, recently it started to have a smokey exhaust, how should I fix it.?
Hi,
Turbo could be leaking oil into the intake system... Iv replace a few of these.. Check all of the rubber intake hoses from the inter-cooler and make sure there not bust... If they were bust you would see black soot were the air blows out the hole.. Also remove on end of one of the inter cooler hoses and look inside for oil leaking... There should be some oil in the pipe but excessive oil would indicate the turbo oil seals are leaking into the intake system...
I wouldn't think the head gaskets the problem..
GET IT REPAIRED
Iv seen some Volvo turbo diesel engines run on the oil that's leaking into the system really bad... Its a scary situation to be in... The engine revs all the way up blue smoke pores out the back and the only way to stop it is to cut off the air supply...
The customer was in with us a few weeks before getting it checked.. We told he she needs a new turbo. She said she cant afford it because she was getting a new kitchen,,
I replaced her engine after it blew while she was grabbing hey young child out of the back in a cloud of blue smoke and a roaring engine that kept going even with the keys removed
Get it checked out if i was you!!
2000 Dodge Durango oil gauge dips to 0 at slow downs and brief stops?
I recently purchased a 2000 durango with 89000 miles when I first got it the check engine light came on. I went to Autozone and got codes P0206 and P0306. Changed oil and checked Fuel Ign 6. After wiggling the injector and adding some cleaner. All lights went off. Until wifey drives to work Monday as soon as she exits and slows down the ck gauges light comes on and the oil gauge drops to zero no more than 2-5 seconds than back about normal. No other gauges have this issue. I am thinking it could be a oil pump switch. If so I would have to drop the motor to replace. (If you could see my smile) But before I start I am wondering if anyone have any thoughts why it would do this and how to repair. I double and triple cked my fluids and all is well.2000 Dodge Durango oil gauge dips to 0 at slow downs and brief stops?
It could be a bad sending unit and no you won't have to %26quot;drop the motor%26quot; to change it.
It could also mean you have a plugged pickup screen or worn oil pump, which requires oil pan removal, or worn crankshaft or camshaft bearings which means pull the engine (as opposed to drop).2000 Dodge Durango oil gauge dips to 0 at slow downs and brief stops?
The oil pressure switch should be located around the oil filter area.
Auto zone has a special socket you can use or purchase, it maybe a 15/16 deep well socket
Un clip connection, remove sender/switch, some oil may leak out, only about a half a cup
replace switch and connection2000 Dodge Durango oil gauge dips to 0 at slow downs and brief stops?
Don't know what oil you are using but a lot of people think they should be using a thicker oil. Think of a drinking straw. Is it easier to suck(pump) honey or water. If you are using a 10W-40, I recommend a 5W-30.
But it could be your oil pump.2000 Dodge Durango oil gauge dips to 0 at slow downs and brief stops?
sounds like you have a week oil pump that may be about to go out. If the oil isn't low or to thin.2000 Dodge Durango oil gauge dips to 0 at slow downs and brief stops?
What engine is in it? A 318?
Where is the sending unit located at on your engine?
I had an old Ford 460 once that made very little oil pressure at idle, but personally, I think your sending unit is probably at fault, %26amp; (remember, %26quot;personally%26quot; is the operative word) if that sending unit is truly wedged in somewhere so tight that you are going to have to pull the engine to get at it (%26amp; I can actually see where that could be possible, nothing clean %26amp; sanitary about the new breed under the hood) I would keep driving it with my fingers crossed.
I would think that if you are truly driving with inadequate oil pressure, that engine should be rattling %26amp; giving you some kind of warning.
Good luck.
It could be a bad sending unit and no you won't have to %26quot;drop the motor%26quot; to change it.
It could also mean you have a plugged pickup screen or worn oil pump, which requires oil pan removal, or worn crankshaft or camshaft bearings which means pull the engine (as opposed to drop).2000 Dodge Durango oil gauge dips to 0 at slow downs and brief stops?
The oil pressure switch should be located around the oil filter area.
Auto zone has a special socket you can use or purchase, it maybe a 15/16 deep well socket
Un clip connection, remove sender/switch, some oil may leak out, only about a half a cup
replace switch and connection2000 Dodge Durango oil gauge dips to 0 at slow downs and brief stops?
Don't know what oil you are using but a lot of people think they should be using a thicker oil. Think of a drinking straw. Is it easier to suck(pump) honey or water. If you are using a 10W-40, I recommend a 5W-30.
But it could be your oil pump.2000 Dodge Durango oil gauge dips to 0 at slow downs and brief stops?
sounds like you have a week oil pump that may be about to go out. If the oil isn't low or to thin.2000 Dodge Durango oil gauge dips to 0 at slow downs and brief stops?
What engine is in it? A 318?
Where is the sending unit located at on your engine?
I had an old Ford 460 once that made very little oil pressure at idle, but personally, I think your sending unit is probably at fault, %26amp; (remember, %26quot;personally%26quot; is the operative word) if that sending unit is truly wedged in somewhere so tight that you are going to have to pull the engine to get at it (%26amp; I can actually see where that could be possible, nothing clean %26amp; sanitary about the new breed under the hood) I would keep driving it with my fingers crossed.
I would think that if you are truly driving with inadequate oil pressure, that engine should be rattling %26amp; giving you some kind of warning.
Good luck.
How to service a ronson lighter?
i just got an old Ronson varaflame luralite lighter. wondering how to change the flint, add fuel. i believe it uses butane, but on the bottom it states to sue large size ronson multi fill injector. can i use any butane, ive seen some that come with adapters will it fit? any and all help greatly aprpeciated.How to service a ronson lighter?
flint is held in chamber with a screw/spring...unscrew from bottom, slip a new flint in and push the spring back into lighter, tighten the screw. Butane cans have adapter kits...one will fit. Good luck ...You will have to %26quot;seat the flint%26quot; by trying to light, if the wheel freezes, turn backwards a few times and it will work.
flint is held in chamber with a screw/spring...unscrew from bottom, slip a new flint in and push the spring back into lighter, tighten the screw. Butane cans have adapter kits...one will fit. Good luck ...You will have to %26quot;seat the flint%26quot; by trying to light, if the wheel freezes, turn backwards a few times and it will work.
How much HP would i gain from a 4cyl with a electric fan?
hi, i have a WEAK 2.3l ford ranger pick up, and im willing to do a few mods to make it more road useable.
it has a belt driven fan, and im wondering how much HP id gain by switching over to electric. btw i live in colorado, so it doesent get to hot here, and we have very thin air!
its fine in the city, but on the highway its like i hvae to max out every gear to get it up to speed!
ive done all the lil changes, oil, performance air filter, plugs, plug wires, fuel injector cleaner, etc etc.
just trying to think of a couple things to free up some HPHow much HP would i gain from a 4cyl with a electric fan?
Well it's no Powerstroke Diesel, but supposedly it takes up to 50HP to run the fan on one of those... From the articles I've gathered you can see that lots of people are reporting fuel economy increases by switching from engine driven to electric fans. If you can do a %26quot;mod%26quot; that increases fuel economy it must reduce losses somewhere else so it stands to reason that there's been some horsepower that was set free.
Here's a thread where someone reports 2-2.5 MPG increase from switching to electric fan in a 4.3L V-6 S-10 pickup.
http://pavementsucks.com/forums/viewtopi
Here's an article that claims up to 17 HP and 20 Lb*ft torque can be gained by switching to an electric fan. (Flex-A-Lite dyno numbers)
http://www.automedia.com/Electric-Coolin
Another article where they claim a 1-2 MPG increase:
http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2003/
An article that claims 26-30 HP gain on new V8 Ford trucks by switching to electric fan:
http://www.ford-trucks.com/article/idx/0
Here is a link to a fan kit specifically for the Ranger:
http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html/ran
Finally, an article describing fan losses from 19-40 HP on a Chevy V8 and only 1.3 HP loss to drive an alternator at 65A. (65A at 14.4v is 936 watts. 936 watts is equal to 1.25 horsepower, so that sounds right).
http://carnut.com/ramblin/dyno.html
After all that you know that switching to electric will free up some HP, how much is hard to say as I couldn't find any actual dyno sheets. My guess: 10-15 HP and 1-2 MPG gains. One thing to keep in mind if you do this is that you will have to upgrade your alternator because the fan will draw a lot of power when it is on (Up to or beyond 30A)!How much HP would i gain from a 4cyl with a electric fan?
That's a very hard question to answer. The horsepower drain of a fan is a function of rpm: power drain increases with the cube of RPM. However, the fan in your truck may be designed to %26quot;feather%26quot; or %26quot;freewheel%26quot; as engine RPM's increase. These techniques reduce parasitic drag.
An electric fan doesn't eliminate parasitic losses, as the power to drive the electric fan increases load on the alternator. The answer to your question is that it will make some difference, but it's hard to say how much.How much HP would i gain from a 4cyl with a electric fan?
not enough of a difference to noticeHow much HP would i gain from a 4cyl with a electric fan?
About 3 hp plus or minus 1 hp.How much HP would i gain from a 4cyl with a electric fan?
I do not think this is a worthwhile mod. It might net you 2-3 hp tops and will surely lead to other reliablity problems.
You do not say how old the car is, but I'll presume it is old and that the engine is worn out. You might be better off having a valve job done and improving the cylinder sealing if its got some miles on it.
Astrobuf
it has a belt driven fan, and im wondering how much HP id gain by switching over to electric. btw i live in colorado, so it doesent get to hot here, and we have very thin air!
its fine in the city, but on the highway its like i hvae to max out every gear to get it up to speed!
ive done all the lil changes, oil, performance air filter, plugs, plug wires, fuel injector cleaner, etc etc.
just trying to think of a couple things to free up some HPHow much HP would i gain from a 4cyl with a electric fan?
Well it's no Powerstroke Diesel, but supposedly it takes up to 50HP to run the fan on one of those... From the articles I've gathered you can see that lots of people are reporting fuel economy increases by switching from engine driven to electric fans. If you can do a %26quot;mod%26quot; that increases fuel economy it must reduce losses somewhere else so it stands to reason that there's been some horsepower that was set free.
Here's a thread where someone reports 2-2.5 MPG increase from switching to electric fan in a 4.3L V-6 S-10 pickup.
http://pavementsucks.com/forums/viewtopi
Here's an article that claims up to 17 HP and 20 Lb*ft torque can be gained by switching to an electric fan. (Flex-A-Lite dyno numbers)
http://www.automedia.com/Electric-Coolin
Another article where they claim a 1-2 MPG increase:
http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2003/
An article that claims 26-30 HP gain on new V8 Ford trucks by switching to electric fan:
http://www.ford-trucks.com/article/idx/0
Here is a link to a fan kit specifically for the Ranger:
http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html/ran
Finally, an article describing fan losses from 19-40 HP on a Chevy V8 and only 1.3 HP loss to drive an alternator at 65A. (65A at 14.4v is 936 watts. 936 watts is equal to 1.25 horsepower, so that sounds right).
http://carnut.com/ramblin/dyno.html
After all that you know that switching to electric will free up some HP, how much is hard to say as I couldn't find any actual dyno sheets. My guess: 10-15 HP and 1-2 MPG gains. One thing to keep in mind if you do this is that you will have to upgrade your alternator because the fan will draw a lot of power when it is on (Up to or beyond 30A)!How much HP would i gain from a 4cyl with a electric fan?
That's a very hard question to answer. The horsepower drain of a fan is a function of rpm: power drain increases with the cube of RPM. However, the fan in your truck may be designed to %26quot;feather%26quot; or %26quot;freewheel%26quot; as engine RPM's increase. These techniques reduce parasitic drag.
An electric fan doesn't eliminate parasitic losses, as the power to drive the electric fan increases load on the alternator. The answer to your question is that it will make some difference, but it's hard to say how much.How much HP would i gain from a 4cyl with a electric fan?
not enough of a difference to noticeHow much HP would i gain from a 4cyl with a electric fan?
About 3 hp plus or minus 1 hp.How much HP would i gain from a 4cyl with a electric fan?
I do not think this is a worthwhile mod. It might net you 2-3 hp tops and will surely lead to other reliablity problems.
You do not say how old the car is, but I'll presume it is old and that the engine is worn out. You might be better off having a valve job done and improving the cylinder sealing if its got some miles on it.
Astrobuf
How to fix a car sputtering or cutting out?
I have a 2002 Ford focus, and as of late it has been sputtering or cutting out. It has been very rainy lately, and it almost seems like something might be getting wet, because the sputtering does decrease (but not stop entirely) after I am on the road for a bit.
It does sputter and cut out a lot when I first get going though. I am not very mechanically literate, but someone suggested %26quot;something%26quot; may be getting wet, yet this started recently and has not done it during past rainstorms.
I did put in fuel injector cleaner to see if that was the problem but no change.
I changed the sparkplugs about a year ago, and that seemed to fix what was a very slight sputter then. I gapped the plugs appropriately, using the gap tool. But I did not change the connector cables. Could this be the problem?
Any other suggestions, and how to troubleshoot and fix the problem would be greatly appreciated.How to fix a car sputtering or cutting out?
all i can think of is to make sure u have the right octane of fuel in the tank, and check the hose from the air filter box to the engine intake, there might be cracks or small holes in it . too much air intake causes sputtering because the air/fuel mixture is not right. check those 2 key areas and that should helpHow to fix a car sputtering or cutting out?
a crack in the filter box is also possible
First, locate remove and clean out thoroughly your IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE. It is on top of or near your throttle body. Clean the throttle body, too. Use Gum-out spray. Use it with engine off and with engine on. If you had to gap your spark plugs, you are using the WRONG plugs. Install a set of Nippondenso Iridium or Twin Tip plugs. You will be amazed at the power increase and MPG improvement. These plugs require no gapping!!! Do NOT bother to change your spark plug wires, they should last the lifetime of the car! (unless they get chewed on by angry squirrels.)
It does sputter and cut out a lot when I first get going though. I am not very mechanically literate, but someone suggested %26quot;something%26quot; may be getting wet, yet this started recently and has not done it during past rainstorms.
I did put in fuel injector cleaner to see if that was the problem but no change.
I changed the sparkplugs about a year ago, and that seemed to fix what was a very slight sputter then. I gapped the plugs appropriately, using the gap tool. But I did not change the connector cables. Could this be the problem?
Any other suggestions, and how to troubleshoot and fix the problem would be greatly appreciated.How to fix a car sputtering or cutting out?
all i can think of is to make sure u have the right octane of fuel in the tank, and check the hose from the air filter box to the engine intake, there might be cracks or small holes in it . too much air intake causes sputtering because the air/fuel mixture is not right. check those 2 key areas and that should helpHow to fix a car sputtering or cutting out?
a crack in the filter box is also possible
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How to fix a car sputtering or cutting out?First, locate remove and clean out thoroughly your IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE. It is on top of or near your throttle body. Clean the throttle body, too. Use Gum-out spray. Use it with engine off and with engine on. If you had to gap your spark plugs, you are using the WRONG plugs. Install a set of Nippondenso Iridium or Twin Tip plugs. You will be amazed at the power increase and MPG improvement. These plugs require no gapping!!! Do NOT bother to change your spark plug wires, they should last the lifetime of the car! (unless they get chewed on by angry squirrels.)
Fuel questions for 91 civic 1.5 liter?
My civic is getting worse. I know enough about engines to be dangerous. When the problem started I suspected an old ignition system so I changed everything.. cap, rotor, wires and plugs. No changes.
What it does is if you drive at a constant speed it stutters and loses power.
My next thought is it might be injectors. This car has a throttle body with two injectors. What I have to do to drive without sputtering down the road is accelerate very fast to the speed I want, then coast until I lose 5 or 10 mph, then give it the gas real hard until i get back up to speed and then coast again.
It kind of seems like one of the injectors might not be doing it's job due to the fact that when I give it a lot of gas and it needs to use both injectors its fine, but when I smooth out and try to hold a constant speed and only the primary injector is needed it sputters. (My logic of how the injectors work and when in this throttle body may be very wrong.. I said I knew enough to be dangerous)
If anyone has any (helpful) opinions on what might be wrong or what else I should check before shelling out money for new parts that may or may not fix the problem I would really appreciate it.
Oh.. almost forgot.. When the car is cold and I start it it skips and sputters very badly until it warms up. It idles very nice after its warm.. doesn't overheat..accelerates fine until you get into higher rpm's (4500 or so) then it skips and sputters unless you put your foot on the floor.
I know there are some honda ppl out there who know exactly what is wrong. Show me how much you know about Honda's and save me some time and money and possibly a long walk in the snow when it finally does take a diveFuel questions for 91 civic 1.5 liter?
I had the same problem on my civic. Although i never got it fixed i was suspicious of the (tps) throttle positioning sensor. I would have it at cruise speed maintaining it and it would sputter. then i would punch it and it would react.
I went through hell. i chipped the ecu, i changed like two sets of cables, rotor cap. i even took out the distributor and it was all good. i changed fuel pump, fuel filters.. you name it i changed. it.
The best thing you can do to pin point the problem is to take it in to a shop where they can run a diagnostic check up on it. that way you wont end up spending so much money like i did!
Good luck and if you ever find out what it was email me, im curious!Fuel questions for 91 civic 1.5 liter?
Change your fuel filter and replace the service screw with a fuel pressure gauge when you re-install it. A fuel filter is $12 and a fuel pressure gauge is around the same but will easily tell you whether you have adequate fuel pressure. You should have between 30-40 PSI of fuel pressure when you initially prime the fuel pump.
This will eliminate a clogged fuel filter and tell you whether or not your fuel pump is going bad.
As far as the idle goes, you should check/clean the idle air control valve and test the fast idle thermo valve per the service manual directions.Fuel questions for 91 civic 1.5 liter?
I would try unplugging the map sensor and see if it makes any difference at all. if that does not work try replacing the whole intake manifold you can find dpfi manifolds on ebay, junkyards, or parts cars for under 50 they dont go for much there not in demandhow to break up with a girl irish boy name
What it does is if you drive at a constant speed it stutters and loses power.
My next thought is it might be injectors. This car has a throttle body with two injectors. What I have to do to drive without sputtering down the road is accelerate very fast to the speed I want, then coast until I lose 5 or 10 mph, then give it the gas real hard until i get back up to speed and then coast again.
It kind of seems like one of the injectors might not be doing it's job due to the fact that when I give it a lot of gas and it needs to use both injectors its fine, but when I smooth out and try to hold a constant speed and only the primary injector is needed it sputters. (My logic of how the injectors work and when in this throttle body may be very wrong.. I said I knew enough to be dangerous)
If anyone has any (helpful) opinions on what might be wrong or what else I should check before shelling out money for new parts that may or may not fix the problem I would really appreciate it.
Oh.. almost forgot.. When the car is cold and I start it it skips and sputters very badly until it warms up. It idles very nice after its warm.. doesn't overheat..accelerates fine until you get into higher rpm's (4500 or so) then it skips and sputters unless you put your foot on the floor.
I know there are some honda ppl out there who know exactly what is wrong. Show me how much you know about Honda's and save me some time and money and possibly a long walk in the snow when it finally does take a diveFuel questions for 91 civic 1.5 liter?
I had the same problem on my civic. Although i never got it fixed i was suspicious of the (tps) throttle positioning sensor. I would have it at cruise speed maintaining it and it would sputter. then i would punch it and it would react.
I went through hell. i chipped the ecu, i changed like two sets of cables, rotor cap. i even took out the distributor and it was all good. i changed fuel pump, fuel filters.. you name it i changed. it.
The best thing you can do to pin point the problem is to take it in to a shop where they can run a diagnostic check up on it. that way you wont end up spending so much money like i did!
Good luck and if you ever find out what it was email me, im curious!Fuel questions for 91 civic 1.5 liter?
Change your fuel filter and replace the service screw with a fuel pressure gauge when you re-install it. A fuel filter is $12 and a fuel pressure gauge is around the same but will easily tell you whether you have adequate fuel pressure. You should have between 30-40 PSI of fuel pressure when you initially prime the fuel pump.
This will eliminate a clogged fuel filter and tell you whether or not your fuel pump is going bad.
As far as the idle goes, you should check/clean the idle air control valve and test the fast idle thermo valve per the service manual directions.Fuel questions for 91 civic 1.5 liter?
I would try unplugging the map sensor and see if it makes any difference at all. if that does not work try replacing the whole intake manifold you can find dpfi manifolds on ebay, junkyards, or parts cars for under 50 they dont go for much there not in demand
Fuel questions for 91 civic 1.5 liter?
My civic is getting worse. I know enough about engines to be dangerous. When the problem started I suspected an old ignition system so I changed everything.. cap, rotor, wires and plugs. No changes.
What it does is if you drive at a constant speed it stutters and loses power.
My next thought is it might be injectors. This car has a throttle body with two injectors. What I have to do to drive without sputtering down the road is accelerate very fast to the speed I want, then coast until I lose 5 or 10 mph, then give it the gas real hard until i get back up to speed and then coast again.
It kind of seems like one of the injectors might not be doing it's job due to the fact that when I give it a lot of gas and it needs to use both injectors its fine, but when I smooth out and try to hold a constant speed and only the primary injector is needed it sputters. (My logic of how the injectors work and when in this throttle body may be very wrong.. I said I knew enough to be dangerous)
If anyone has any (helpful) opinions on what might be wrong or what else I should check before shelling out money for new parts that may or may not fix the problem I would really appreciate it.
Oh.. almost forgot.. When the car is cold and I start it it skips and sputters very badly until it warms up. It idles very nice after its warm.. doesn't overheat..accelerates fine until you get into higher rpm's (4500 or so) then it skips and sputters unless you put your foot on the floor.
I know there are some honda ppl out there who know exactly what is wrong. Show me how much you know about Honda's and save me some time and money and possibly a long walk in the snow when it finally does take a diveFuel questions for 91 civic 1.5 liter?
Apart from anything else, those cars were known for defective %26quot;ignitors%26quot; which is called an ignition module on many other cars. Many cars of that vintage probably had a new distributor installed by now which may be the best way to get a new ignitor. Then you'll know it's not an ignition problem. The distributors also failed due to bad bearings. Never crank your engine with any spark plug wires disconnected or the cap removed. You can blow out the ignitor and coil.Fuel questions for 91 civic 1.5 liter?
Remove all four plugs and inspect for signs of a lean setting or a rich setting in regards to fuel flow.
What it does is if you drive at a constant speed it stutters and loses power.
My next thought is it might be injectors. This car has a throttle body with two injectors. What I have to do to drive without sputtering down the road is accelerate very fast to the speed I want, then coast until I lose 5 or 10 mph, then give it the gas real hard until i get back up to speed and then coast again.
It kind of seems like one of the injectors might not be doing it's job due to the fact that when I give it a lot of gas and it needs to use both injectors its fine, but when I smooth out and try to hold a constant speed and only the primary injector is needed it sputters. (My logic of how the injectors work and when in this throttle body may be very wrong.. I said I knew enough to be dangerous)
If anyone has any (helpful) opinions on what might be wrong or what else I should check before shelling out money for new parts that may or may not fix the problem I would really appreciate it.
Oh.. almost forgot.. When the car is cold and I start it it skips and sputters very badly until it warms up. It idles very nice after its warm.. doesn't overheat..accelerates fine until you get into higher rpm's (4500 or so) then it skips and sputters unless you put your foot on the floor.
I know there are some honda ppl out there who know exactly what is wrong. Show me how much you know about Honda's and save me some time and money and possibly a long walk in the snow when it finally does take a diveFuel questions for 91 civic 1.5 liter?
Apart from anything else, those cars were known for defective %26quot;ignitors%26quot; which is called an ignition module on many other cars. Many cars of that vintage probably had a new distributor installed by now which may be the best way to get a new ignitor. Then you'll know it's not an ignition problem. The distributors also failed due to bad bearings. Never crank your engine with any spark plug wires disconnected or the cap removed. You can blow out the ignitor and coil.Fuel questions for 91 civic 1.5 liter?
Remove all four plugs and inspect for signs of a lean setting or a rich setting in regards to fuel flow.
Uk volvo started over-fueling?
the last thing you want to do in america is let an american mech.work on your volvo.has anyone had a problem with 89 740 turbo over fueling?not pressure reg.not injectors.both fuel pumps check ok too.
how bout,oil seperator?didn't start until,i let a shop change my oil and a few miles down the road it started over-fueling.found out they over filled oil by 2 1/2 qts.Uk volvo started over-fueling?
Get your MAP sensor checked manifold absolute pressure sensor.This feeds information to your engine ECU if because your eng was overfilled with oil it has got into this system that will cause it to over fuel.Also what about your lambda sensor i think in USA you refer to it as an oxygen sensor this if contaminated by oil will cause over fuelling.Regards Mick UK.PS also check your air cleaner it has a MAT valve manifold air temp valve this could have also become contaminated by oil.Uk volvo started over-fueling?
Glad to be of help would like to hear more from you or your family Mick UK.
Thats the crappy mechanics that we get these days, took my car in for a service and they forgot to bleed my brakes, the apprentice moves it to the car wash presses the brakes, no brakes, bang into the wall, now i must wait 2 weeks to get my car fixed at the panelbeaters, idiots.!!!
how bout,oil seperator?didn't start until,i let a shop change my oil and a few miles down the road it started over-fueling.found out they over filled oil by 2 1/2 qts.Uk volvo started over-fueling?
Get your MAP sensor checked manifold absolute pressure sensor.This feeds information to your engine ECU if because your eng was overfilled with oil it has got into this system that will cause it to over fuel.Also what about your lambda sensor i think in USA you refer to it as an oxygen sensor this if contaminated by oil will cause over fuelling.Regards Mick UK.PS also check your air cleaner it has a MAT valve manifold air temp valve this could have also become contaminated by oil.Uk volvo started over-fueling?
Glad to be of help would like to hear more from you or your family Mick UK.
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Uk volvo started over-fueling?Thats the crappy mechanics that we get these days, took my car in for a service and they forgot to bleed my brakes, the apprentice moves it to the car wash presses the brakes, no brakes, bang into the wall, now i must wait 2 weeks to get my car fixed at the panelbeaters, idiots.!!!
Off car injector cleaning Lexus ES300, 92?
Hi, i have a question: Does Lexus es300, 1992 has a carburetor? and can i use carb and injector cleaner, cause it might damage something?
But what I really wanted to know, does anybody know how to clean injectors off the car? and does it worth that?
Oh ya one more question, whats the deal with fuel filter? I mean if I change it and put some stp injecter cleaner in tank, it gonna give me same result as off car cleaning?\
thanks!!!!Off car injector cleaning Lexus ES300, 92?
Carburetors have not been used since the mid to late 80's.
Off the car cleaning by a professional usually involves immersing the injector in a solvent and cleaning it in an ultrasonic washer.
An in the tank treatment will not have nearly the effect of an off the car cleaning.
I don't think off the car cleaning is really that worthwhile unless you know the injector is clogged. For a home mechanic, there's no good, safe way to tell. If you want to save some money, you might be able to find a shop that will check the injectors out and clean them for you if your take them off and bring them in.
Here's some more info: http://www.aa1car.com/library/2003/ic303
http://www.witchhunter.com/methods1.php4
But what I really wanted to know, does anybody know how to clean injectors off the car? and does it worth that?
Oh ya one more question, whats the deal with fuel filter? I mean if I change it and put some stp injecter cleaner in tank, it gonna give me same result as off car cleaning?\
thanks!!!!Off car injector cleaning Lexus ES300, 92?
Carburetors have not been used since the mid to late 80's.
Off the car cleaning by a professional usually involves immersing the injector in a solvent and cleaning it in an ultrasonic washer.
An in the tank treatment will not have nearly the effect of an off the car cleaning.
I don't think off the car cleaning is really that worthwhile unless you know the injector is clogged. For a home mechanic, there's no good, safe way to tell. If you want to save some money, you might be able to find a shop that will check the injectors out and clean them for you if your take them off and bring them in.
Here's some more info: http://www.aa1car.com/library/2003/ic303
http://www.witchhunter.com/methods1.php4
Engine light came on - Code P0303 Misfire in cylinder 3. Helpppppppppp.?
2000 Honda Civic EX (4 cylinder) 159,000 miles.
I took it to Autozone and they told me it was code P0303. I did some research on line and so far this can be the cause...Faulty Spark Plugs, Faulty Spark Plug Wires, Coil Pack, Fuel Injector. The guy at Autozone told me that I should change the distributor cap, rotor, plugs and wires. Is changing all of this necessary? About how much will all this cost? Any ides as to where I should start? I don't want to start changing parts that don't need to be changed. I'm hoping it's only the spark plugs since I haven't changed them in years (I know!). Are these parts hard to replace...is it something I can do or do I need to take it to a pro?Engine light came on - Code P0303 Misfire in cylinder 3. Helpppppppppp.?
My daughter does her own tune-ups on her Civic. These parts should be replaced more often than every eight years, sis (check your owners manual). The whole kit should be around $100, and it will save you money with the better gas mileage you will get.Engine light came on - Code P0303 Misfire in cylinder 3. Helpppppppppp.?
Auto zone cannot always give you the exact part that is going bad. But the sad this is it can be any of those. Have you checked the gap on the spark plug, or ever had them replaced? Make sure that sprak plug wire is connected securely too. Hondas only have one coil, so if it was bad or going bad you'd know it. It only has one pack for all 4 cylinders. 2nd have someone check the distributor cap, as there could be some corrosion on the tabs inside and just needing cleaned off. If you take any spark plug wires off do 1 at a time that way you will remeber the firing sequence.Engine light came on - Code P0303 Misfire in cylinder 3. Helpppppppppp.?
honestly the ODBII lights can light up if you have one misfire... the question is whether the car is running fine. If it is then dont' even worry about it...if you think you need spark plugs then change them and while your at it go ahead and change the plug wires.... but dont assume that the light knows all and tells all.... I've had the lights pop on simply because I washed the engine and then started the car before the engine was completely dry.Engine light came on - Code P0303 Misfire in cylinder 3. Helpppppppppp.?
I would start with the plugs. However make sure you get NGK or Denso plugs, do not use AUTOLIGHT, CHAMPION or BOSCH plugs. The problem with trying to fix your car from a code is its only a starting point for what could be the problem. If it's been year since you changed the plugs how long for the cap and rotor? These also can wear out over time. The reason Autozone does the free scan is so they can sell you the parts to fix it so while he may be correct in saying re place everything, if your trying to save money start with the plugs and then the cap and rotor and wires last.I would not worry much about the coil if it was bad you would most likly have more than one mis-fire code.Engine light came on - Code P0303 Misfire in cylinder 3. Helpppppppppp.?
Start with the least expensive thing or take it to a shop.
Start with the plugs they are like $10 if you can replace them yourself.
Very unlikely it is the injector.Engine light came on - Code P0303 Misfire in cylinder 3. Helpppppppppp.?
Never put a part on just because it could be a problem - diagnose first! First you should remove the 3 spark plug and check it for fouling (you should be able to find pictures of spark plugs that have been run under different conditions easily online if you've never done plugs before). If it is fouled, then you know it is part of the problem, but you don't know it is the problem. Next inspect the wire for carbon tracking, tears in the insulation, corrosion on the metal contacts or discoloration. Also check the resistance in the wire and make sure it is not too high. Remove the distributor cap and check inside for burns, cracks, carbon tracking and corrosion on the cap and rotor. Inspect the rotor button (metal contact) for wear as well and make sure the contacts inside the cap are in good condition. If you have done this in the past 30K it is unlikely unless your cap has a water leak or the wire has been installed but not run through the holders or damaged, but if it has not been serviced in a long time, spark is likely your problem. An injector check is more difficult. You can use a noid light to check injector pulse (make sure the wiring is working properly), but you may need to take it to a shop to check injector flow unless you have this equipment at home.
This is what your initial research missed. While it is highly unlikely that this is your problem because many engine problems present with noise as well as a misfire, I cannot let an internal engine problem go unmentioned as a possible cause. If everything else is good (or you want to skip the fuel system check because you don't have the equipment), you can get a compression tester or take it to a shop for this step. Remove the spark plugs and check the dry compression on each cylinder. If you notice a drop of more than 20% on cylinder 3 you've found your problem. Then you should do a wet compression test (add a SMALL amount of oil to cyl 3 and check the compression again). If the compression improves, the problem is the piston rings and if it does not it is likely in the valvetrain. Here's another part where you can get stuck without expensive equipment - unless you want to tear into your engine, if the wet and dry compression checks are bad you will need to do a leakdown test by pumping air into the cylinder on the compression stroke (valves closed and piston at the top of its stroke) and determining where it leaks out. If it comes out the intake, it is an intake valve problem, if it comes out the exhaust it is and exhaust valve problem, if it goes into the crankcase, it is a block problem and otherwise it is a warped/cracked head or head gasket problem. The head gasket is a very involved repair, but there are a lot of people that can do it themselves by sending the head to a machine shop to be inspected and installing a new head gasket and head bolts if the head passes inspection or can be machined. Most machine shops will do any valvetrain repairs you need as well. A block problem condemns the engine. The other problems are a cost analysis of whether it is better to fix or replace the engine cost wise. Since I can build an engine, I would likely fix it, but if I had to pay for labor I might reconsider that. Be sure to get an estimate both ways if it comes to that so you can see the difference in the warranty and price.
I took it to Autozone and they told me it was code P0303. I did some research on line and so far this can be the cause...Faulty Spark Plugs, Faulty Spark Plug Wires, Coil Pack, Fuel Injector. The guy at Autozone told me that I should change the distributor cap, rotor, plugs and wires. Is changing all of this necessary? About how much will all this cost? Any ides as to where I should start? I don't want to start changing parts that don't need to be changed. I'm hoping it's only the spark plugs since I haven't changed them in years (I know!). Are these parts hard to replace...is it something I can do or do I need to take it to a pro?Engine light came on - Code P0303 Misfire in cylinder 3. Helpppppppppp.?
My daughter does her own tune-ups on her Civic. These parts should be replaced more often than every eight years, sis (check your owners manual). The whole kit should be around $100, and it will save you money with the better gas mileage you will get.Engine light came on - Code P0303 Misfire in cylinder 3. Helpppppppppp.?
Auto zone cannot always give you the exact part that is going bad. But the sad this is it can be any of those. Have you checked the gap on the spark plug, or ever had them replaced? Make sure that sprak plug wire is connected securely too. Hondas only have one coil, so if it was bad or going bad you'd know it. It only has one pack for all 4 cylinders. 2nd have someone check the distributor cap, as there could be some corrosion on the tabs inside and just needing cleaned off. If you take any spark plug wires off do 1 at a time that way you will remeber the firing sequence.Engine light came on - Code P0303 Misfire in cylinder 3. Helpppppppppp.?
honestly the ODBII lights can light up if you have one misfire... the question is whether the car is running fine. If it is then dont' even worry about it...if you think you need spark plugs then change them and while your at it go ahead and change the plug wires.... but dont assume that the light knows all and tells all.... I've had the lights pop on simply because I washed the engine and then started the car before the engine was completely dry.Engine light came on - Code P0303 Misfire in cylinder 3. Helpppppppppp.?
I would start with the plugs. However make sure you get NGK or Denso plugs, do not use AUTOLIGHT, CHAMPION or BOSCH plugs. The problem with trying to fix your car from a code is its only a starting point for what could be the problem. If it's been year since you changed the plugs how long for the cap and rotor? These also can wear out over time. The reason Autozone does the free scan is so they can sell you the parts to fix it so while he may be correct in saying re place everything, if your trying to save money start with the plugs and then the cap and rotor and wires last.I would not worry much about the coil if it was bad you would most likly have more than one mis-fire code.Engine light came on - Code P0303 Misfire in cylinder 3. Helpppppppppp.?
Start with the least expensive thing or take it to a shop.
Start with the plugs they are like $10 if you can replace them yourself.
Very unlikely it is the injector.Engine light came on - Code P0303 Misfire in cylinder 3. Helpppppppppp.?
Never put a part on just because it could be a problem - diagnose first! First you should remove the 3 spark plug and check it for fouling (you should be able to find pictures of spark plugs that have been run under different conditions easily online if you've never done plugs before). If it is fouled, then you know it is part of the problem, but you don't know it is the problem. Next inspect the wire for carbon tracking, tears in the insulation, corrosion on the metal contacts or discoloration. Also check the resistance in the wire and make sure it is not too high. Remove the distributor cap and check inside for burns, cracks, carbon tracking and corrosion on the cap and rotor. Inspect the rotor button (metal contact) for wear as well and make sure the contacts inside the cap are in good condition. If you have done this in the past 30K it is unlikely unless your cap has a water leak or the wire has been installed but not run through the holders or damaged, but if it has not been serviced in a long time, spark is likely your problem. An injector check is more difficult. You can use a noid light to check injector pulse (make sure the wiring is working properly), but you may need to take it to a shop to check injector flow unless you have this equipment at home.
This is what your initial research missed. While it is highly unlikely that this is your problem because many engine problems present with noise as well as a misfire, I cannot let an internal engine problem go unmentioned as a possible cause. If everything else is good (or you want to skip the fuel system check because you don't have the equipment), you can get a compression tester or take it to a shop for this step. Remove the spark plugs and check the dry compression on each cylinder. If you notice a drop of more than 20% on cylinder 3 you've found your problem. Then you should do a wet compression test (add a SMALL amount of oil to cyl 3 and check the compression again). If the compression improves, the problem is the piston rings and if it does not it is likely in the valvetrain. Here's another part where you can get stuck without expensive equipment - unless you want to tear into your engine, if the wet and dry compression checks are bad you will need to do a leakdown test by pumping air into the cylinder on the compression stroke (valves closed and piston at the top of its stroke) and determining where it leaks out. If it comes out the intake, it is an intake valve problem, if it comes out the exhaust it is and exhaust valve problem, if it goes into the crankcase, it is a block problem and otherwise it is a warped/cracked head or head gasket problem. The head gasket is a very involved repair, but there are a lot of people that can do it themselves by sending the head to a machine shop to be inspected and installing a new head gasket and head bolts if the head passes inspection or can be machined. Most machine shops will do any valvetrain repairs you need as well. A block problem condemns the engine. The other problems are a cost analysis of whether it is better to fix or replace the engine cost wise. Since I can build an engine, I would likely fix it, but if I had to pay for labor I might reconsider that. Be sure to get an estimate both ways if it comes to that so you can see the difference in the warranty and price.
Ford Mustang Tune Up Estimate Cost - 10 POINTS?
2001 Ford Mustang V6 Automatic 121,500 miles. My car has been running sluggish for a few months now and I think it's time for a decent tune up. How much would all this run me?
1. Oil Change
2. Oil Filter Replaced
2. Tire Rotation %26amp; Balance
3. Timing Belt Replaced
4. Spark Plugs %26amp; Wires Replaced
5. Fuel Filter Replaced
6. Cap %26amp; Rotor Replaced
7. PCV Value Replaced
8. Injectors Cleaned
9. Change Fluids
10. Adjust Valves
11. Transmission Flush
12. Brake Inspection etc
*I don't need an air filter, I just recently installed a K%26amp;N air filter so I'm good. Also, this is just some of the things I've read online that are included in a tune up. I'm not an expert with it comes to car maintenance.Ford Mustang Tune Up Estimate Cost - 10 POINTS?
you're gonna spend at least 1200.00 bucks to do all that. You might also pull off that MAF sensor and clean it with electrical cleaner as the oil from the K%26amp;N filter can stick on it when you first install it. That can cause problems.Ford Mustang Tune Up Estimate Cost - 10 POINTS?
Youre going from 8k to about 15knatural hair blocked myspace
1. Oil Change
2. Oil Filter Replaced
2. Tire Rotation %26amp; Balance
3. Timing Belt Replaced
4. Spark Plugs %26amp; Wires Replaced
5. Fuel Filter Replaced
6. Cap %26amp; Rotor Replaced
7. PCV Value Replaced
8. Injectors Cleaned
9. Change Fluids
10. Adjust Valves
11. Transmission Flush
12. Brake Inspection etc
*I don't need an air filter, I just recently installed a K%26amp;N air filter so I'm good. Also, this is just some of the things I've read online that are included in a tune up. I'm not an expert with it comes to car maintenance.Ford Mustang Tune Up Estimate Cost - 10 POINTS?
you're gonna spend at least 1200.00 bucks to do all that. You might also pull off that MAF sensor and clean it with electrical cleaner as the oil from the K%26amp;N filter can stick on it when you first install it. That can cause problems.Ford Mustang Tune Up Estimate Cost - 10 POINTS?
Youre going from 8k to about 15k
Just bought 94 Ford Thunderbird 4.6L OHC. Blows out some serious white exhaust. Acutually drips gas out of?
tailpipes. Changed spark plugs one was bad. Replace one fuel injector, one was bad. Actually my dad is doing all this for me. Someone mentioned that something else might need adjusting, however I don't recall what. Any suggestions on how to eliminate this problem. Everything else runs great.Just bought 94 Ford Thunderbird 4.6L OHC. Blows out some serious white exhaust. Acutually drips gas out of?
Sounds like maybe a headgasket, pressure test the cooling system.Just bought 94 Ford Thunderbird 4.6L OHC. Blows out some serious white exhaust. Acutually drips gas out of?
Replace catalytic converter, change transmission oil (or check it) - maybe not moving smoothly which can be harder on your engine. Check oil pressure %26amp; change engine oil to synthica Oil and check piston PSI pressure. Last check head gasket.Just bought 94 Ford Thunderbird 4.6L OHC. Blows out some serious white exhaust. Acutually drips gas out of?
thats a bad head gasket or a cracked headJust bought 94 Ford Thunderbird 4.6L OHC. Blows out some serious white exhaust. Acutually drips gas out of?
Is it white SMOKE or STEAM? Smoke is thick and heavy and has an odour, steam is wispy and vaporous and feels wet. If it's steam, then you have an internal water leak or your engine is running excessivly cool in a cold climate. If the heater works ok, this is not the problem. Internal water leaks occur at the cylinder head gasket, headcracks or corrosion (has the car had proper coolant or just plain water), intake manifold and timing case on some vehicles. If you can smell a fuel/ exhaust type smell in the radiator you have a cylinder head problem because products of combustion are dissolved in the coolant and there shouldn't be. You will be loosing coolant too but won't be able to see where it's going. If it's white smoke then you have tansmission fluid or brake fluid getting burnt in the engine. Transmission fluid can only get into the engine via a faulty vacuum operated modulator valve on the transmission. Your car may not be fitted with one of these. If it is and it is faulty there will be a delayed upshift as well. Check with your mechanic. The only way brake fluid can get into the engine is via the vacuum line from a faulty brake booster/servo. The brakes will be very hard as well if this is the problem. Either way you will be consuming coolant, trans fluid or brake fluid check these and see which one keeps going down, that will give you a clue. Hope this helps. Jules, Automotive Lecturer, Australia.Just bought 94 Ford Thunderbird 4.6L OHC. Blows out some serious white exhaust. Acutually drips gas out of?
I agree, if you have a bad plug that is probably the cylinder that is causing the problem. But, before you spend all that money. Buy some good, very good gas from a station that sells a lot, put some good ole fashioned rubbing alcohol in your tank (yes it is OK it will burn). This will get out any moisture in your gas tank. Which could be causing the steam.Just bought 94 Ford Thunderbird 4.6L OHC. Blows out some serious white exhaust. Acutually drips gas out of?
white smoke is an indication of a head gasket leak. take a small smell of the white smoke and see if it smells sweet, like antifreeze. You could also have a leak at the intake manifold near where the plug was replaced.
Sounds like maybe a headgasket, pressure test the cooling system.Just bought 94 Ford Thunderbird 4.6L OHC. Blows out some serious white exhaust. Acutually drips gas out of?
Replace catalytic converter, change transmission oil (or check it) - maybe not moving smoothly which can be harder on your engine. Check oil pressure %26amp; change engine oil to synthica Oil and check piston PSI pressure. Last check head gasket.Just bought 94 Ford Thunderbird 4.6L OHC. Blows out some serious white exhaust. Acutually drips gas out of?
thats a bad head gasket or a cracked headJust bought 94 Ford Thunderbird 4.6L OHC. Blows out some serious white exhaust. Acutually drips gas out of?
Is it white SMOKE or STEAM? Smoke is thick and heavy and has an odour, steam is wispy and vaporous and feels wet. If it's steam, then you have an internal water leak or your engine is running excessivly cool in a cold climate. If the heater works ok, this is not the problem. Internal water leaks occur at the cylinder head gasket, headcracks or corrosion (has the car had proper coolant or just plain water), intake manifold and timing case on some vehicles. If you can smell a fuel/ exhaust type smell in the radiator you have a cylinder head problem because products of combustion are dissolved in the coolant and there shouldn't be. You will be loosing coolant too but won't be able to see where it's going. If it's white smoke then you have tansmission fluid or brake fluid getting burnt in the engine. Transmission fluid can only get into the engine via a faulty vacuum operated modulator valve on the transmission. Your car may not be fitted with one of these. If it is and it is faulty there will be a delayed upshift as well. Check with your mechanic. The only way brake fluid can get into the engine is via the vacuum line from a faulty brake booster/servo. The brakes will be very hard as well if this is the problem. Either way you will be consuming coolant, trans fluid or brake fluid check these and see which one keeps going down, that will give you a clue. Hope this helps. Jules, Automotive Lecturer, Australia.Just bought 94 Ford Thunderbird 4.6L OHC. Blows out some serious white exhaust. Acutually drips gas out of?
I agree, if you have a bad plug that is probably the cylinder that is causing the problem. But, before you spend all that money. Buy some good, very good gas from a station that sells a lot, put some good ole fashioned rubbing alcohol in your tank (yes it is OK it will burn). This will get out any moisture in your gas tank. Which could be causing the steam.Just bought 94 Ford Thunderbird 4.6L OHC. Blows out some serious white exhaust. Acutually drips gas out of?
white smoke is an indication of a head gasket leak. take a small smell of the white smoke and see if it smells sweet, like antifreeze. You could also have a leak at the intake manifold near where the plug was replaced.
My 1990 pontiac firebird all of a sudden doesn't have the power it used to have also the exhast is popping
Whats wrong?!? i have a 1990 Ponitac Firebird wit 160K miles... i was driving on the highway accerlating pretty fast and then all of sudden my car gave out and instead of goin 65-70mph like i was it wind down to only 35 then slowly 25ph.... it will still go if u are goin around town where it is 25 to 35 but once u want to accerlate like on the highway, the exhaust starts to pop and the engine doesnt feel like it has the power like it did... this all happens after u go 35mph. so i took it to the shop and they said it was the oxygen sensor and the fuel filter..... soooo hoping they were right........and they changed both of them.......turns out it wasnt either.......so took it out and put it into another shop and they are saying that it wasnt the oxygen sensor and its the fuel injectors?!? how could 2 mechanics shops have totally different things?!? PLZ help!!! Whats wrong?!?!? We already checked the transmission, and the cataylic convertor and they are fine......My 1990 pontiac firebird all of a sudden doesn%26039;t have the power it used to have also the exhast is popping
Could have jumped timing..... have the mechanics hook it upto their machine and read the computer, I know it is different than the OBDII, but they can still get codes for that car and see what is wrong.My 1990 pontiac firebird all of a sudden doesn%26039;t have the power it used to have also the exhast is popping
Run a compression check on the engine, you may have broken a valve spring. That would be a good starting point anyway to check the valves.My 1990 pontiac firebird all of a sudden doesn%26039;t have the power it used to have also the exhast is popping
when it has to do with power loss it can be so many differant things, so sometimes its hard to tell. it could be plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor, fuel injectors, fuel filter, the cat but you said that was checked, o2 sensor, exhaust could be clogged. also you can have the timing checkedMy 1990 pontiac firebird all of a sudden doesn%26039;t have the power it used to have also the exhast is popping
Sounds more like a timing issue to me. It could be that the camshaft jumped time.
Your car has no distributor, distributor cap, or rotor. Your car's ignition is set by a sensor located near the crankshaft. This provides a signal to the computer to fire the spark plugs. The crank sensor usually works or doesn't, no in between.
Your problem started all of a sudden. Fuel filter, fuel injectors, oxygen sensor, these items usually fail gradually over time.
Unfortunately, the only way to know for sure is to disassemble the front of the motor and remove the timing chain cover. Line the motor up to 1 cylinder at top dead center on the compression stroke, and check the timing marks. Even if the timing marks are aligned, now would be a good time to replace the timing chain and gears as they have 160k miles on them.My 1990 pontiac firebird all of a sudden doesn%26039;t have the power it used to have also the exhast is popping
Sounds like you took it to a couple of %26quot;code chasers%26quot; not real mechanics. From what you describe, I'll bet dinner at Ruth's Chris or The Chop House that you've jumped timing. The symptoms you describe and what you were doing when it happened are classic symptoms of jumping a tooth on one of the timing gears. Get a REAL mechanic to have a look at it.My 1990 pontiac firebird all of a sudden doesn%26039;t have the power it used to have also the exhast is popping
Don't worry, the problem could very well lie in your exhaust, it's probably clogged somewhere. Take it to a shop and have the pipe checked all the way from the maniforld to the muffler. There must be an obstruction somewhere.My 1990 pontiac firebird all of a sudden doesn%26039;t have the power it used to have also the exhast is popping
It sounds like your timing is off.If you changed spark plugs or wires,it's always a good ideal to check to check the timing also.If your distributer is lose it will lose power and backfire.My 1990 pontiac firebird all of a sudden doesn%26039;t have the power it used to have also the exhast is popping
GM H.E.I distibutorss were very high energy systems and were bad about burning a hole in the rotor and shorting out to the disributor shaft.pull the rotor and look for a burnt through spot on the back of it.if it is black on the back toss it and buy a new one. this may not be the problem but is the easiest and cheapest to check and correct
Could have jumped timing..... have the mechanics hook it upto their machine and read the computer, I know it is different than the OBDII, but they can still get codes for that car and see what is wrong.My 1990 pontiac firebird all of a sudden doesn%26039;t have the power it used to have also the exhast is popping
Run a compression check on the engine, you may have broken a valve spring. That would be a good starting point anyway to check the valves.My 1990 pontiac firebird all of a sudden doesn%26039;t have the power it used to have also the exhast is popping
when it has to do with power loss it can be so many differant things, so sometimes its hard to tell. it could be plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor, fuel injectors, fuel filter, the cat but you said that was checked, o2 sensor, exhaust could be clogged. also you can have the timing checkedMy 1990 pontiac firebird all of a sudden doesn%26039;t have the power it used to have also the exhast is popping
Sounds more like a timing issue to me. It could be that the camshaft jumped time.
Your car has no distributor, distributor cap, or rotor. Your car's ignition is set by a sensor located near the crankshaft. This provides a signal to the computer to fire the spark plugs. The crank sensor usually works or doesn't, no in between.
Your problem started all of a sudden. Fuel filter, fuel injectors, oxygen sensor, these items usually fail gradually over time.
Unfortunately, the only way to know for sure is to disassemble the front of the motor and remove the timing chain cover. Line the motor up to 1 cylinder at top dead center on the compression stroke, and check the timing marks. Even if the timing marks are aligned, now would be a good time to replace the timing chain and gears as they have 160k miles on them.My 1990 pontiac firebird all of a sudden doesn%26039;t have the power it used to have also the exhast is popping
Sounds like you took it to a couple of %26quot;code chasers%26quot; not real mechanics. From what you describe, I'll bet dinner at Ruth's Chris or The Chop House that you've jumped timing. The symptoms you describe and what you were doing when it happened are classic symptoms of jumping a tooth on one of the timing gears. Get a REAL mechanic to have a look at it.My 1990 pontiac firebird all of a sudden doesn%26039;t have the power it used to have also the exhast is popping
Don't worry, the problem could very well lie in your exhaust, it's probably clogged somewhere. Take it to a shop and have the pipe checked all the way from the maniforld to the muffler. There must be an obstruction somewhere.My 1990 pontiac firebird all of a sudden doesn%26039;t have the power it used to have also the exhast is popping
It sounds like your timing is off.If you changed spark plugs or wires,it's always a good ideal to check to check the timing also.If your distributer is lose it will lose power and backfire.My 1990 pontiac firebird all of a sudden doesn%26039;t have the power it used to have also the exhast is popping
GM H.E.I distibutorss were very high energy systems and were bad about burning a hole in the rotor and shorting out to the disributor shaft.pull the rotor and look for a burnt through spot on the back of it.if it is black on the back toss it and buy a new one. this may not be the problem but is the easiest and cheapest to check and correct
2003 Intrepid SE 2.7L check engine light on?
While my wife was driving our Intrepid, she said she noticed the check engine light was on when the fuel light %26quot;binged%26quot; that she was low on gas. I asked specifically if it was on before %26amp; she said she didn't know. I have scoured the internet for fault codes and found a few. I tried the on-off-on-off-on thing to get the code(s) it might be and the P-codes don't show on the odometer like I read it/they should while pressing the trip set button. The only thing that happens is the check engine light blinks 10 times. I put Lucas fuel injector cleaner in last night before I filled up but haven't driven it this morning. Any ideas why the check engine light would be on and how to get the codes? I do know I need to change the plugs and wires; could that be it? I should be able to take it to an auto parts store later on tonight and get them to read it, but in the meantime I was wondering if anyone had any ideas on what it might be and/or how to get the codes on my own?2003 Intrepid SE 2.7L check engine light on?
The 10 flashes you got were actually 5 flashes, a pause, and 5 more flashes, which is a Code 55, signifying the test for codes has ended. Turn the key on and off, on the 3rd time leave the key in the ON position, then start counting flashes. The flashes signify the numbers of the codes. For example it may flash 4 times, then pause, then 3 times. This would be a 43. This is just an example, but there should be an even longer pause between the flashes for the next code. Hope this helps out.2003 Intrepid SE 2.7L check engine light on?
Take it to Midas or any dealer or auto repair2003 Intrepid SE 2.7L check engine light on?
cycle the key on and off 3 times to get the codes or go to autozone and they will scan for free.2003 Intrepid SE 2.7L check engine light on?
The chech engine light will go on if something is wrong. So I would check the engine or just remove the light then it wont ever go on. I hope that helps :)
The 10 flashes you got were actually 5 flashes, a pause, and 5 more flashes, which is a Code 55, signifying the test for codes has ended. Turn the key on and off, on the 3rd time leave the key in the ON position, then start counting flashes. The flashes signify the numbers of the codes. For example it may flash 4 times, then pause, then 3 times. This would be a 43. This is just an example, but there should be an even longer pause between the flashes for the next code. Hope this helps out.2003 Intrepid SE 2.7L check engine light on?
Take it to Midas or any dealer or auto repair2003 Intrepid SE 2.7L check engine light on?
cycle the key on and off 3 times to get the codes or go to autozone and they will scan for free.2003 Intrepid SE 2.7L check engine light on?
The chech engine light will go on if something is wrong. So I would check the engine or just remove the light then it wont ever go on. I hope that helps :)
Cold air intake available for my truck?
Well ive got a 1990 GMC Sierra with a v8 5.7L chevy 350 small block, and i want to know how and if it is even possible to get a cold air intake for my truck... The reason i ask this is because my truck has a vertical style throttle body
Ive heard that my current TB system was actually a carburater that was changed into an electronically fuel injected one, which is why my injectors are seperate peice on top of my so called TB...
Let me know if you would happen to know any good intakes/cold air intakes that would fit my truckCold air intake available for my truck?
That is a throttle-body engine, but is a lot different then a carburetor. There are several cold air intake systems available through JCwhitney and most other auto parts stores. You'd be better off installing a K%26amp;N air filter and give your TB a good service. Hope this helps. Christopher
Ive heard that my current TB system was actually a carburater that was changed into an electronically fuel injected one, which is why my injectors are seperate peice on top of my so called TB...
Let me know if you would happen to know any good intakes/cold air intakes that would fit my truckCold air intake available for my truck?
That is a throttle-body engine, but is a lot different then a carburetor. There are several cold air intake systems available through JCwhitney and most other auto parts stores. You'd be better off installing a K%26amp;N air filter and give your TB a good service. Hope this helps. Christopher
Improving my cars performance?
Alright heres the deal, I have a 2003 subaru legacy (sweet car, sweet body.) in the last month i have
-change oil
-replace and air filter
-added transmission fluids
-added coolant
-conditioned my belts
-bought 4 new tires
-cleaned the fuel injectors (put cleaning fluid in the oil tank)
its running alot better then when i bought it (obviously) and im taking it in this weekend to a mechanic to get a shopping list for the things that i need to replace, and have what i dont know how to do myself replaced.
After that i want to improve the acceleration, and overall performance.
so im going for a spoiler, (cause the body looks bomb with it.) but i was wondering what else i could do once i finish what im already doing.
so im looking at cool intakes, and new exhaust, but was wondering what else i can do withought dropping in a whole new engine, lolImproving my cars performance?
would have platinium spark plugs fitted and fiberglass packed mufflers.microsoft What color bed sheets would look best
-change oil
-replace and air filter
-added transmission fluids
-added coolant
-conditioned my belts
-bought 4 new tires
-cleaned the fuel injectors (put cleaning fluid in the oil tank)
its running alot better then when i bought it (obviously) and im taking it in this weekend to a mechanic to get a shopping list for the things that i need to replace, and have what i dont know how to do myself replaced.
After that i want to improve the acceleration, and overall performance.
so im going for a spoiler, (cause the body looks bomb with it.) but i was wondering what else i could do once i finish what im already doing.
so im looking at cool intakes, and new exhaust, but was wondering what else i can do withought dropping in a whole new engine, lolImproving my cars performance?
would have platinium spark plugs fitted and fiberglass packed mufflers.
What is the tapping sound coming from my engine ?
I got a VW Golf (MK 3) 1.9 TDI.It is producing wiered tapping sound (Like an old Tractor) when i push the accelrator.Some times it goes off and the engine runs smoothly and some time while running smoothly it starts this noise again.The engine does white smoke when this sound is coming.
I checked the cam Shaft(it is beautiful),timing belt,flushed ,serviced the engine,fuel injectors,running the engine with out power steering n alternator running but doest affect that much.
I think it is Engine oil lifter pump (planning to change it,one mechanic also suggested this),Also waana know how a faulty valve makes sound or is there any other problems.
Got any ideas (Looking forward for responces)What is the tapping sound coming from my engine ?
If it was a big end or small end you would hear the noise most of the time, if it has hydraulic tappets these can cause a noise, if faulty, this can also be caused by lack of oil, or oil pressure, (only replace in complete sets), the white smoke is not a normal diesel emission, blue smoke indicates engine oil, black excessive diesel, a bent or sticking valve will allow excess clearance between the cam follower and the camshaft, as will a u/s hyd tappet, have you broken a belt or had one incorrectly fitted causing this? have the injectors been tested to see that they still atomise correctly.What is the tapping sound coming from my engine ?
Doesn't sound good, especially if you have the belt off the ps and alt. Check for oil pressure with a gauge before you waste time changing out a part that is good.What is the tapping sound coming from my engine ?
The tapping sound is an alien inside it, trying to get out because you have trapped the poor thing inside :( It way plot revenge if you let him out but I guess thats just a thing you'll have to deal with when you trap aliens. There are consequences to trapping aliens, you know.What is the tapping sound coming from my engine ?
it sounds like the rocker arms are in need of an adjustment. The rocker arms will get worn out and will have a gap between the rocker arm and valve stem. Thus the rocker arm will snap agaist the valve stem vreating a click or metal to metal sound. I wouldnt worry about it. its not going to hurt anything unless it gets loader or it starts to knock. Dont waste your money on a oil pump.What is the tapping sound coming from my engine ?
Oh No, an engine knock....
thats bad, you might need to rebuild a burnt out cylinder ring, that fixed mine.
White smoke is not a sign of anything, all the cars in my family do it, if it turns blueish though, there is a problem.What is the tapping sound coming from my engine ?
Wasn't that pre '96? Diesels were still pretty noisy then, that was the second reason no-one wanted them after the lack of nip, could be normal, can't compare to modern versions.What is the tapping sound coming from my engine ?
your mech is right but you need yo do it asap before complete failure that would be bad!!!!What is the tapping sound coming from my engine ?
My first thought was a sticking valveWhat is the tapping sound coming from my engine ?
Maybe your tappets need a adjusting.What is the tapping sound coming from my engine ?
Sounds like the camshaft is worn. I had this on my Ford - spit spit wash my mouth out - and it was wear on the camshaft. Did I care ? No it was a Company car.
Take the oil filler cap off and listen if it comes from there it is definitely the camshaft.
This was due to poor oil supply to the camshaft which Ford rectified evenually..
RoySWhat is the tapping sound coming from my engine ?
The knocking is likely just severe diesel knock. All diesel, as you know have a distinctive sound.
Combustion problems caused by faulty injectors, compression problems -Worn rings, head gasket allowing water in to cylinder etc, incorrect timings, engine management issues or engine lube oil entering the induction air circuit can all cause smoke and sever knock.
I've known engines replaced when all that was needed was a 拢30 injector.
I checked the cam Shaft(it is beautiful),timing belt,flushed ,serviced the engine,fuel injectors,running the engine with out power steering n alternator running but doest affect that much.
I think it is Engine oil lifter pump (planning to change it,one mechanic also suggested this),Also waana know how a faulty valve makes sound or is there any other problems.
Got any ideas (Looking forward for responces)What is the tapping sound coming from my engine ?
If it was a big end or small end you would hear the noise most of the time, if it has hydraulic tappets these can cause a noise, if faulty, this can also be caused by lack of oil, or oil pressure, (only replace in complete sets), the white smoke is not a normal diesel emission, blue smoke indicates engine oil, black excessive diesel, a bent or sticking valve will allow excess clearance between the cam follower and the camshaft, as will a u/s hyd tappet, have you broken a belt or had one incorrectly fitted causing this? have the injectors been tested to see that they still atomise correctly.What is the tapping sound coming from my engine ?
Doesn't sound good, especially if you have the belt off the ps and alt. Check for oil pressure with a gauge before you waste time changing out a part that is good.What is the tapping sound coming from my engine ?
The tapping sound is an alien inside it, trying to get out because you have trapped the poor thing inside :( It way plot revenge if you let him out but I guess thats just a thing you'll have to deal with when you trap aliens. There are consequences to trapping aliens, you know.What is the tapping sound coming from my engine ?
it sounds like the rocker arms are in need of an adjustment. The rocker arms will get worn out and will have a gap between the rocker arm and valve stem. Thus the rocker arm will snap agaist the valve stem vreating a click or metal to metal sound. I wouldnt worry about it. its not going to hurt anything unless it gets loader or it starts to knock. Dont waste your money on a oil pump.What is the tapping sound coming from my engine ?
Oh No, an engine knock....
thats bad, you might need to rebuild a burnt out cylinder ring, that fixed mine.
White smoke is not a sign of anything, all the cars in my family do it, if it turns blueish though, there is a problem.What is the tapping sound coming from my engine ?
Wasn't that pre '96? Diesels were still pretty noisy then, that was the second reason no-one wanted them after the lack of nip, could be normal, can't compare to modern versions.What is the tapping sound coming from my engine ?
your mech is right but you need yo do it asap before complete failure that would be bad!!!!What is the tapping sound coming from my engine ?
My first thought was a sticking valveWhat is the tapping sound coming from my engine ?
Maybe your tappets need a adjusting.What is the tapping sound coming from my engine ?
Sounds like the camshaft is worn. I had this on my Ford - spit spit wash my mouth out - and it was wear on the camshaft. Did I care ? No it was a Company car.
Take the oil filler cap off and listen if it comes from there it is definitely the camshaft.
This was due to poor oil supply to the camshaft which Ford rectified evenually..
RoySWhat is the tapping sound coming from my engine ?
The knocking is likely just severe diesel knock. All diesel, as you know have a distinctive sound.
Combustion problems caused by faulty injectors, compression problems -Worn rings, head gasket allowing water in to cylinder etc, incorrect timings, engine management issues or engine lube oil entering the induction air circuit can all cause smoke and sever knock.
I've known engines replaced when all that was needed was a 拢30 injector.
Chrysler sebring 2000 2.5l car wont start!?
I know naturally its a pain to solve some problems on this car. But it cranks over just fine, just won't start. This is what I have tried (2.5L Sebring Conv, 2000)
I Tested 12v on the 2-way pin to the distributor, I have volts.
Tested the pulsing between both CAM/Crank Sensor's, Both are pulsing. However, When the cam pulse's it makes a big buzzing sound, and the Crank pulses are random and pulses 7-10 times when turning the crankshaft by hand. Both pulses are reading 5v. (4.97)
I tested the Ignition Coil Driver (Pin 1 or 6 depends on how you look at it) on the 6-Way Distributor Connection and I am not getting 1.5-2.5V when I try to crank over the engine. The grounds ground the way they should, and I do have good continuity for the ignition coil driver on PCM Connector Pin 4, Just no volts. (Tried testing with wires all together with a paper clip, still no volts.
I have already swapped out the computer (I was guessing the computer was not calculating the timing right) and it did not fix the prob. I check the timing belt, its timing are right.
I tested spark a few diff way, with the distributor cap/rotor on with a wire plugged in, With a plug wire directly in the Ignition Coil Tower, and a few other ways.
I have swapped the ASD Relay out with another one I in the fuse box. I can't find any shorting in any wire I try (That I know of anyway)
SO the crank/cam sensors are working and sending volts to the PCM. I am getting 12v from the ASD relay to my 2-way pin, I am getting pulsing on my fuel injectors, My Cam/crank sensors are toggling 0-5v, Getting 8.7v on the right CAM/Crank wires, The ground on both Cam/Crank are grounding. The only thing I am not getting is Volts on the Ignition Coil Driver.
I did the test with the Ignition key (done test before) And as before it shows me no codes. My code reader for the car also shows me no codes. And the buzzing that happens with the cam, the cam shows 5v for every other full rotation of the engine (I think) It does toggle back and forth 0-5v and when the buzzing happens it only happens or is only noticed when I turn the engine by hand. If you think I have over looked something or I have tested something wrong, please send any test you would like me to do. My car has been not running for a month now and could really use the help.
I am not sure if this will help but heres a link to the all the wireing in the car.
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/TrevHe
Just the ignition coil driver (PCM 11 was changed in year 1999-2000 car to PCM 4) Thats the only change I know of.
Hope this helps!
Tried almost everything and I am at a lost :(, Please help!%26quot;Chrysler sebring 2000 2.5l car wont start!?
Sounds to me like YOU should be answering the questions of others. You've done a great deal to try and figure out the problem.
Try www.cartalk.com
Their forum is the best when stuff gets this complicated.Chrysler sebring 2000 2.5l car wont start!?
Hook it up and scan it. A blk/rd wire is the key. Both spark and fuel drivers are PCM located, if the valve timing and grounds and power are present there may be something wrong with the cam, crank timing. A scanner is used first and mechanical inspections next.
I Tested 12v on the 2-way pin to the distributor, I have volts.
Tested the pulsing between both CAM/Crank Sensor's, Both are pulsing. However, When the cam pulse's it makes a big buzzing sound, and the Crank pulses are random and pulses 7-10 times when turning the crankshaft by hand. Both pulses are reading 5v. (4.97)
I tested the Ignition Coil Driver (Pin 1 or 6 depends on how you look at it) on the 6-Way Distributor Connection and I am not getting 1.5-2.5V when I try to crank over the engine. The grounds ground the way they should, and I do have good continuity for the ignition coil driver on PCM Connector Pin 4, Just no volts. (Tried testing with wires all together with a paper clip, still no volts.
I have already swapped out the computer (I was guessing the computer was not calculating the timing right) and it did not fix the prob. I check the timing belt, its timing are right.
I tested spark a few diff way, with the distributor cap/rotor on with a wire plugged in, With a plug wire directly in the Ignition Coil Tower, and a few other ways.
I have swapped the ASD Relay out with another one I in the fuse box. I can't find any shorting in any wire I try (That I know of anyway)
SO the crank/cam sensors are working and sending volts to the PCM. I am getting 12v from the ASD relay to my 2-way pin, I am getting pulsing on my fuel injectors, My Cam/crank sensors are toggling 0-5v, Getting 8.7v on the right CAM/Crank wires, The ground on both Cam/Crank are grounding. The only thing I am not getting is Volts on the Ignition Coil Driver.
I did the test with the Ignition key (done test before) And as before it shows me no codes. My code reader for the car also shows me no codes. And the buzzing that happens with the cam, the cam shows 5v for every other full rotation of the engine (I think) It does toggle back and forth 0-5v and when the buzzing happens it only happens or is only noticed when I turn the engine by hand. If you think I have over looked something or I have tested something wrong, please send any test you would like me to do. My car has been not running for a month now and could really use the help.
I am not sure if this will help but heres a link to the all the wireing in the car.
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/TrevHe
Just the ignition coil driver (PCM 11 was changed in year 1999-2000 car to PCM 4) Thats the only change I know of.
Hope this helps!
Tried almost everything and I am at a lost :(, Please help!%26quot;Chrysler sebring 2000 2.5l car wont start!?
Sounds to me like YOU should be answering the questions of others. You've done a great deal to try and figure out the problem.
Try www.cartalk.com
Their forum is the best when stuff gets this complicated.Chrysler sebring 2000 2.5l car wont start!?
Hook it up and scan it. A blk/rd wire is the key. Both spark and fuel drivers are PCM located, if the valve timing and grounds and power are present there may be something wrong with the cam, crank timing. A scanner is used first and mechanical inspections next.
How to lower hydrocarbon emissions, had fresh tune-up o2sensor only ever 93oct fuel plus oct booster?
Okay, just replaced plugs, cap, rotor, wires, o2 sensor, fresh cleaned K%26amp;N air filter, fuel filter, PCV valve, used tank full of injector cleaner, then eight gallons of 93 octane fuel with entire can of super octane booster, only ever use 93 octane, complete oil change... emissions test showed: @2400est rpm CO @ .18 allowed 1-- HC @ 800+ allowed 150 -- .... @510 rpm (idle) co @ .0 allowed 1.2-- HC @ 440 allowed 220. Replaced catalytic converter 2 years ago, original owner had removed. I need help and advice please.How to lower hydrocarbon emissions, had fresh tune-up o2sensor only ever 93oct fuel plus oct booster?
Just don't worry about it, mine leaks about 3 gallons every 30 minutes.
And re-remove the cat converter all it does is lower horsepowerHow to lower hydrocarbon emissions, had fresh tune-up o2sensor only ever 93oct fuel plus oct booster?
It would help if you had given the model. Some cars like Nissan and Mazda automatically will fail because they require special test procedures. You have unburnt gas. The low CO says it is raw fuel and not lack of air. The cat only cleans smog not gas. If you had a carburetter engine, I would say it was time for a rebuild of the carb. Being fuel injected, I would have said bad O2 sensor, but you replaced it. Maybe a bad injector. 93 burns slower (dirtier) than 87 octane. Booster is made not to burn. Both helps to make power, but hurt the test. Also turn up your idle, 510 is way too low for emissions testing and you're allowed to go up to 1250. The only true answer is an engine diagnostics which would tell if you have a fuel rich cylinder or if the computer is off.
How to cheat. Most states allow a free retest. Run the tank low (less than 3 gallons). Put 3 gallons of E-85 in. Run for an hour. The car will smell like butter popcorn, but will pass fine. If you can't get E-85, use a gallon of Home Depot paint thinner %26quot;Klean-Strip Denatured Alcohol%26quot; (on the side it will say, ethyl-methanol for alcohol stoves not for marine use). Remove air filter for the test, less air blockage (they don't check for it) and the couple of minutes for the test wont hurt. Top back up with regular gas after the test.How to lower hydrocarbon emissions, had fresh tune-up o2sensor only ever 93oct fuel plus oct booster?
Look people the higher octane is one of the probs with high HCs.
The higher the octane, the slower the burn rate on the fuel is. You ONLY use the min octane to prevent detonation. Low compression stock engines does not need any more than 87 octane.
High HCs is just un burnt fuel in the exhaust system
This can be from wrong octane, mis fire in the ign. system from fouled spark plugs or a bad plug, weak coil, etc , fuel pressure probs, burned exhaust valves, vac leak, stuck open EGR valve, etc
Just don't worry about it, mine leaks about 3 gallons every 30 minutes.
And re-remove the cat converter all it does is lower horsepowerHow to lower hydrocarbon emissions, had fresh tune-up o2sensor only ever 93oct fuel plus oct booster?
It would help if you had given the model. Some cars like Nissan and Mazda automatically will fail because they require special test procedures. You have unburnt gas. The low CO says it is raw fuel and not lack of air. The cat only cleans smog not gas. If you had a carburetter engine, I would say it was time for a rebuild of the carb. Being fuel injected, I would have said bad O2 sensor, but you replaced it. Maybe a bad injector. 93 burns slower (dirtier) than 87 octane. Booster is made not to burn. Both helps to make power, but hurt the test. Also turn up your idle, 510 is way too low for emissions testing and you're allowed to go up to 1250. The only true answer is an engine diagnostics which would tell if you have a fuel rich cylinder or if the computer is off.
How to cheat. Most states allow a free retest. Run the tank low (less than 3 gallons). Put 3 gallons of E-85 in. Run for an hour. The car will smell like butter popcorn, but will pass fine. If you can't get E-85, use a gallon of Home Depot paint thinner %26quot;Klean-Strip Denatured Alcohol%26quot; (on the side it will say, ethyl-methanol for alcohol stoves not for marine use). Remove air filter for the test, less air blockage (they don't check for it) and the couple of minutes for the test wont hurt. Top back up with regular gas after the test.How to lower hydrocarbon emissions, had fresh tune-up o2sensor only ever 93oct fuel plus oct booster?
Look people the higher octane is one of the probs with high HCs.
The higher the octane, the slower the burn rate on the fuel is. You ONLY use the min octane to prevent detonation. Low compression stock engines does not need any more than 87 octane.
High HCs is just un burnt fuel in the exhaust system
This can be from wrong octane, mis fire in the ign. system from fouled spark plugs or a bad plug, weak coil, etc , fuel pressure probs, burned exhaust valves, vac leak, stuck open EGR valve, etc
How do you check to see if the EGR valve is working?.?
I have a 93 Grand prix and my mpg has gone from about 22 mpg to around 15~16 ish the car isn't as quick as it once was their is no soot or anything at the exhaust tips. The O2 sensor is a year old and has about 12,000 miles on it the air filter is okay the fuel filter is okay I checked the spark plug gap and its fine. My car has the 3.1L MPFI engine it has the digital EGR valve with the three solenoids how do I test the solenoids to see if they are working and should I change the PCV valve as well?. the grommet is new but the valve is the original. I run 87 oct in the car the engine does not have anything wrong with it mechanically and the fuel injectors are working as they should the engine doesn't stumble or miss.How do you check to see if the EGR valve is working?.?
It sure sounds its the EGR valve. You might wanna clean it out first with good carberator cleaner and replace the gasket. Do replace the PCV and also check your MAP sensor.
One more thing. Does your car hesitates to start the first time? Does the RPM bounces on stops or idle? Or does it jerk forward while driving like a slight gas rush into the motor? If so then do replace the EGR. Have it checked at a shop if you have doubts.How do you check to see if the EGR valve is working?.?
try some injector cleaner even though it doesnt stumble the injectors still might get a little bit clogged with todays gas additives might try some octane boost it worked for me
It sure sounds its the EGR valve. You might wanna clean it out first with good carberator cleaner and replace the gasket. Do replace the PCV and also check your MAP sensor.
One more thing. Does your car hesitates to start the first time? Does the RPM bounces on stops or idle? Or does it jerk forward while driving like a slight gas rush into the motor? If so then do replace the EGR. Have it checked at a shop if you have doubts.How do you check to see if the EGR valve is working?.?
try some injector cleaner even though it doesnt stumble the injectors still might get a little bit clogged with todays gas additives might try some octane boost it worked for me
How do you check to see if the EGR valve is working?.?
I have a 93 Grand prix and my mpg has gone from about 22 mpg to around 15~16 ish the car isn't as quick as it once was their is no soot or anything at the exhaust tips. The O2 sensor is a year old and has about 12,000 miles on it the air filter is okay the fuel filter is okay I checked the spark plug gap and its fine. My car has the 3.1L MPFI engine it has the digital EGR valve with the three solenoids how do I test the solenoids to see if they are working and should I change the PCV valve as well?. the grommet is new but the valve is the original. I run 87 oct in the car the engine does not have anything wrong with it mechanically and the fuel injectors are working as they should the engine doesn't stumble or miss.How do you check to see if the EGR valve is working?.?
that is a linear egr valve. if it malfunctions it will throw a code for egr flow. but there is no way to check it without a 5 gas analyzer and a scanner that will command it to turn on and off. it sounds like the lower intake manifold is leaking that is what happens to almost every 3.1 put out by general motors. 15 years experience as a diagnostic tech. used to work at the chevy dealer as the lead tech.
the vacuum being fine and throttle body being ok still does not rule out an intake gasket leak. the lower intake on those leak oil and coolant into the combustion chamber and externally in small amounts. but another common problem is the ignition module which is under the coil packs. it could be getting hot and cutting out due to a short. you need to check the spark and if it is weak once warm then change the ignition module and coil packs. Another common problem is the fuel pump. how new is the fuel filter and what is your fuel pressure. it needs to be within spec. if it is even 2 lbs low it will cause drive ability problems.silk comforter computers via usb cord
that is a linear egr valve. if it malfunctions it will throw a code for egr flow. but there is no way to check it without a 5 gas analyzer and a scanner that will command it to turn on and off. it sounds like the lower intake manifold is leaking that is what happens to almost every 3.1 put out by general motors. 15 years experience as a diagnostic tech. used to work at the chevy dealer as the lead tech.
the vacuum being fine and throttle body being ok still does not rule out an intake gasket leak. the lower intake on those leak oil and coolant into the combustion chamber and externally in small amounts. but another common problem is the ignition module which is under the coil packs. it could be getting hot and cutting out due to a short. you need to check the spark and if it is weak once warm then change the ignition module and coil packs. Another common problem is the fuel pump. how new is the fuel filter and what is your fuel pressure. it needs to be within spec. if it is even 2 lbs low it will cause drive ability problems.
Why is my car drinking more gas than usual?
Okay, so I'm usually good at researching but I think I'm going a little more specific and hope someone can give me definite possibilities why my car is drinking more gas than usual. I suspected it may be %26quot;watered down%26quot; gas, but I have been going to the same gas station for a very long time and had no problems till now. My story is: I took it to a place down the street for an oil chance and I was told I need a cleaning in my fuel injectors to get my mpg back up as if it was new. BEFORE the oil change visit, gas was steady for a long time, now the needle drops a line or two going only 3 miles home from the gas station. So unless these guys did something, all I can think of is that the float is acting up or it maybe just %26quot;watered down%26quot; gas all of a sudden. So any tricks besides a cleaning, or if there was a scam, how can I resolve it? Thanks for the input, I really appreciate it. Additional info if it can help: 2006 Nissan Altima 3.5SE V6, 44K miles, and a dirty air filter (which is another theory). Thanks again! :)Why is my car drinking more gas than usual?
That isn't very many miles on your engine so I can't think that you should have any serious problem.
Use as much of the gas in the tank as you can before filling it up and adding a good brand fuel injector cleaner. I assume you are using premium grade fuel, that is what is recommended for that engine. Check your air filter and see if it needs replaced. You can do that easily enough yourself.Why is my car drinking more gas than usual?
Thanks! I'll take a look at it.
That isn't very many miles on your engine so I can't think that you should have any serious problem.
Use as much of the gas in the tank as you can before filling it up and adding a good brand fuel injector cleaner. I assume you are using premium grade fuel, that is what is recommended for that engine. Check your air filter and see if it needs replaced. You can do that easily enough yourself.Why is my car drinking more gas than usual?
Thanks! I'll take a look at it.
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Helpp! How do I adjust distributor bolt? Car running rough and bad MPG. Timing angle? Nissan?
Hi, please help!
My distributor adjusting bolt is all the way to the left side of the car (viewing it if you were inside the car facing forward, meaning the LEFT side of the car). The bolt was not like that before the mechanic replaced the timing belt. How do I change it back to the original position? The original position was in the middle. Do I need to take off the distributor or any other component?
I was told once by a mechanic that the bolt has to do with the firing angle and the power the car can give in every cycle. If my bolt in my nissan is ALL the way to the left (to the battery side, the driver side), does that mean its %26quot;advanced%26quot; or %26quot;retard%26quot; the timing? How do tell if its either one or the other?
I read in an article of another nissan car, that if the bolt is exactly in the middle, thats the closest you can get to STOCK TIMING.
My car lacks power...and the MPG is horrible! Thats why I replaced the timing belt, plug wires(seiwa), spark plugs (denso), air filter, fuel filter, engine oil, transmission oil/filter.
yet, the car is still feeling rough...Can the bolt be the problem?
the history of the problem in my car is:
1. Tried to remove a plug wire to replace spark plugs(NGK) but the wire got ruined, it split.
2. Bought new plug wires (SEIWA, same as stock).
3. The car was still lacking power.
4. Changed spark plugs (NGK, properly gapped).
5. The car lack power...
6. Replaced engine oil.
7. Replaced air filter. Still lacked power. mpg was ugly!
8. Took it to a mechanic.
9. He replaced the timing belt(with 82K miles on it, the manaul says to replace it at 60K), fuel filter, transimission oil/filter. The Distributor adjusting bolt was MOVED all the way to the left, yet he told me he didnt touched THAT bolt!! Fortunately I took pictures before taking it to the mechanic, and yes...the bolt was in the center before taking it to the mechanic.
10. Replaced the O2 sensor.
10. The car was still lacking power He checked the spark plugs....and said they were OK.
11. I told him to clean and check th fuel injectors (maybe one of them was faulty).
12. He checked/cleaned them, told me that they were OK...
13. Now..he said that the problem was the spark plugs....he replaced them with DENSO.
14. The car still feels ROUGH when pressing the pedal. And also sounds ROUGH. Also, lacking power since Ive driven the car for 3 years now.
15. Now, Im thinking about adjusting the distributor bolt....MAYBE thats the problem.
In conclusion, Im guesing he did NOT adjust PROPERLY the timing in the QUEST. Maybe one of the points mentioned before was the problem, but when he replaced the timing belt, he could have missed maybe a tooth of the belt/sprocket...Yet he says the belt was properly replaced!
Do I just need a socket wrench to adjust the bolt? What is the normal procedure when doing this? Do I need to set TDC piston 1? Can I do this while the engine is running? Should I hear for SOMETHING when adjusting it? Is the center position the best one? STOCK?
PLEASE HELP!!!!
1993 Nissan Quest GXE V6 VG30EHelpp! How do I adjust distributor bolt? Car running rough and bad MPG. Timing angle? Nissan?
IF YOU WANT THE BOLT BACK LIKE THE ORIGINAL, YOU NEED TO REMOVE THE TIMING BELT AGAIN AND ALIGN THE NOTCHES OR TIMING MARK. IT WAS NOT ALIGN. AFTER THAT ,YOU NEED A TIMING LIGHT TO ADJUST THE IGNITION TIMING IN ORDER TO GAIN THE HORSEPOWER BACK.Helpp! How do I adjust distributor bolt? Car running rough and bad MPG. Timing angle? Nissan?
Could be the timing belt is off a tooth or two, and the distributor had to be offset in order for the engine to run. If you are sure about the distributor position before the belt replacement, I would have reason to question proper belt replacement.Helpp! How do I adjust distributor bolt? Car running rough and bad MPG. Timing angle? Nissan?
You need a diagram to check the timing belt. Look it up at the link I provide.
The timing belt effects timing, so you need to get that right first.
That will change a bit as a belt stretches with age or a new one installed, but not that much.
So the belt timing is probably off.
Not hard to change once you loosen the tensioner.
As for the distributor timing, the idea is the timing belt turns the inner shaft, so if you loosen its hold down and rotate the distributor body, it will change when the sensor in the body will pulse from the shaft lobe. With a strobe timing light inductively around spark plug wire 1, the light will flash the instant 1 gets spark. This will freeze the image of where the timing mark was at that instant. There will be a perfect timing mark, (probably around 5 degree before top dead center, on the crank pulley), and you will see it move before or after that as you rotate the distributor body. (with vacuum advance hoses disconnected if the instructions say to). Then you retighten the distributor hold down.
My distributor adjusting bolt is all the way to the left side of the car (viewing it if you were inside the car facing forward, meaning the LEFT side of the car). The bolt was not like that before the mechanic replaced the timing belt. How do I change it back to the original position? The original position was in the middle. Do I need to take off the distributor or any other component?
I was told once by a mechanic that the bolt has to do with the firing angle and the power the car can give in every cycle. If my bolt in my nissan is ALL the way to the left (to the battery side, the driver side), does that mean its %26quot;advanced%26quot; or %26quot;retard%26quot; the timing? How do tell if its either one or the other?
I read in an article of another nissan car, that if the bolt is exactly in the middle, thats the closest you can get to STOCK TIMING.
My car lacks power...and the MPG is horrible! Thats why I replaced the timing belt, plug wires(seiwa), spark plugs (denso), air filter, fuel filter, engine oil, transmission oil/filter.
yet, the car is still feeling rough...Can the bolt be the problem?
the history of the problem in my car is:
1. Tried to remove a plug wire to replace spark plugs(NGK) but the wire got ruined, it split.
2. Bought new plug wires (SEIWA, same as stock).
3. The car was still lacking power.
4. Changed spark plugs (NGK, properly gapped).
5. The car lack power...
6. Replaced engine oil.
7. Replaced air filter. Still lacked power. mpg was ugly!
8. Took it to a mechanic.
9. He replaced the timing belt(with 82K miles on it, the manaul says to replace it at 60K), fuel filter, transimission oil/filter. The Distributor adjusting bolt was MOVED all the way to the left, yet he told me he didnt touched THAT bolt!! Fortunately I took pictures before taking it to the mechanic, and yes...the bolt was in the center before taking it to the mechanic.
10. Replaced the O2 sensor.
10. The car was still lacking power He checked the spark plugs....and said they were OK.
11. I told him to clean and check th fuel injectors (maybe one of them was faulty).
12. He checked/cleaned them, told me that they were OK...
13. Now..he said that the problem was the spark plugs....he replaced them with DENSO.
14. The car still feels ROUGH when pressing the pedal. And also sounds ROUGH. Also, lacking power since Ive driven the car for 3 years now.
15. Now, Im thinking about adjusting the distributor bolt....MAYBE thats the problem.
In conclusion, Im guesing he did NOT adjust PROPERLY the timing in the QUEST. Maybe one of the points mentioned before was the problem, but when he replaced the timing belt, he could have missed maybe a tooth of the belt/sprocket...Yet he says the belt was properly replaced!
Do I just need a socket wrench to adjust the bolt? What is the normal procedure when doing this? Do I need to set TDC piston 1? Can I do this while the engine is running? Should I hear for SOMETHING when adjusting it? Is the center position the best one? STOCK?
PLEASE HELP!!!!
1993 Nissan Quest GXE V6 VG30EHelpp! How do I adjust distributor bolt? Car running rough and bad MPG. Timing angle? Nissan?
IF YOU WANT THE BOLT BACK LIKE THE ORIGINAL, YOU NEED TO REMOVE THE TIMING BELT AGAIN AND ALIGN THE NOTCHES OR TIMING MARK. IT WAS NOT ALIGN. AFTER THAT ,YOU NEED A TIMING LIGHT TO ADJUST THE IGNITION TIMING IN ORDER TO GAIN THE HORSEPOWER BACK.Helpp! How do I adjust distributor bolt? Car running rough and bad MPG. Timing angle? Nissan?
Could be the timing belt is off a tooth or two, and the distributor had to be offset in order for the engine to run. If you are sure about the distributor position before the belt replacement, I would have reason to question proper belt replacement.Helpp! How do I adjust distributor bolt? Car running rough and bad MPG. Timing angle? Nissan?
You need a diagram to check the timing belt. Look it up at the link I provide.
The timing belt effects timing, so you need to get that right first.
That will change a bit as a belt stretches with age or a new one installed, but not that much.
So the belt timing is probably off.
Not hard to change once you loosen the tensioner.
As for the distributor timing, the idea is the timing belt turns the inner shaft, so if you loosen its hold down and rotate the distributor body, it will change when the sensor in the body will pulse from the shaft lobe. With a strobe timing light inductively around spark plug wire 1, the light will flash the instant 1 gets spark. This will freeze the image of where the timing mark was at that instant. There will be a perfect timing mark, (probably around 5 degree before top dead center, on the crank pulley), and you will see it move before or after that as you rotate the distributor body. (with vacuum advance hoses disconnected if the instructions say to). Then you retighten the distributor hold down.
1993 Nissan Quest GXE 3.0L DISTRIBUTOR??? SOLENOIDE? WHAAATTT??? HELP HELP HELP!!!?
HELLO!! My car is running rough since a month, I changed plug wires,spark plugs (ngk), air filter, drive belts, engine oil, but it still runs rough! Can my distributor be the reason? How do I test if my distributor is working properly? Does it have any inicial starting position everytime the engine goes on/off? What about the solenoide? Can my solenoide output voltage be the reason? Meaning less spark...?
I step on the gas but there is no acceleration increment (as before) and no power (even with a V6!). The car SOUNDS like it %26quot;has%26quot; POWER but when on the road it just doesnt show! The only thing changing is my gas bill (wasting more gas $$$). I try to avoid hills because its hard to go up with the condition my car is in!!
Can an EGR valve or IAC valve (or any other valve) get damaged when washing the engine with a hose/degreaser? What are some common components that may cause an engine like mine to run rough?
And finally, can it be possible (meaning the reason of my problem) the intake manifold be clogged with gunk? Or some other air/fuel/gas hose? The car has only 82,000 miles, BUT it only had 1 time replaced air filter (55,000 miles I guess) and the one that it had wasnt filtering 100% since its width wasnt the appropiate!!
Also Im thinking fuel injectors may be working wrong...I hosed them with water when attempting to wash my engine. Can they go BAD that way? I took off my battery when washing the engine...
And one more question, HOW DO I TEST a spark plug? I have one method which is by disconnecting (when the engine is running) a plug wire from the spark plug, and if the engine %26quot;stumbles%26quot; or if I hear a change in engine performance, then there is spark in the cylinder...The problem is, I DO NOT HAVE a 10K Volt generator to see the arc in the spark plug!!1993 Nissan Quest GXE 3.0L DISTRIBUTOR??? SOLENOIDE? WHAAATTT??? HELP HELP HELP!!!?
Sounds like cam timing (as opposed to ignition timing) jumped.
If it only happened after you washed the motor check if the inside of the distributor cap is wet. Dry it with WD-40.1993 Nissan Quest GXE 3.0L DISTRIBUTOR??? SOLENOIDE? WHAAATTT??? HELP HELP HELP!!!?
did u change cap rotor u didnt say if u did timing could have jumped too did u check fuel pressure u can test the coil spark should jump atleast a half inch dist is optical water could have damadged it if it got into it check ur basics again so u know where problem is coming from iff ur useing alot of gas check ur o2 sensor reading if stuck lean comp will add more fuel same thing for coolant temp sensor which is notorious on nissans check ur connections since early nissan wiring harnessses tend to corrod injector dont useually go bad on these nissans they usually leak like i said do ur basics again test spark fuel pressure timing then if everything checks out check input from sensors tps .5-.9 at idle maf 1.2-1.5 at idle coolant temp around 3.5 at normal engine temp easier to see with scanner iff u need any more info email me
I step on the gas but there is no acceleration increment (as before) and no power (even with a V6!). The car SOUNDS like it %26quot;has%26quot; POWER but when on the road it just doesnt show! The only thing changing is my gas bill (wasting more gas $$$). I try to avoid hills because its hard to go up with the condition my car is in!!
Can an EGR valve or IAC valve (or any other valve) get damaged when washing the engine with a hose/degreaser? What are some common components that may cause an engine like mine to run rough?
And finally, can it be possible (meaning the reason of my problem) the intake manifold be clogged with gunk? Or some other air/fuel/gas hose? The car has only 82,000 miles, BUT it only had 1 time replaced air filter (55,000 miles I guess) and the one that it had wasnt filtering 100% since its width wasnt the appropiate!!
Also Im thinking fuel injectors may be working wrong...I hosed them with water when attempting to wash my engine. Can they go BAD that way? I took off my battery when washing the engine...
And one more question, HOW DO I TEST a spark plug? I have one method which is by disconnecting (when the engine is running) a plug wire from the spark plug, and if the engine %26quot;stumbles%26quot; or if I hear a change in engine performance, then there is spark in the cylinder...The problem is, I DO NOT HAVE a 10K Volt generator to see the arc in the spark plug!!1993 Nissan Quest GXE 3.0L DISTRIBUTOR??? SOLENOIDE? WHAAATTT??? HELP HELP HELP!!!?
Sounds like cam timing (as opposed to ignition timing) jumped.
If it only happened after you washed the motor check if the inside of the distributor cap is wet. Dry it with WD-40.1993 Nissan Quest GXE 3.0L DISTRIBUTOR??? SOLENOIDE? WHAAATTT??? HELP HELP HELP!!!?
did u change cap rotor u didnt say if u did timing could have jumped too did u check fuel pressure u can test the coil spark should jump atleast a half inch dist is optical water could have damadged it if it got into it check ur basics again so u know where problem is coming from iff ur useing alot of gas check ur o2 sensor reading if stuck lean comp will add more fuel same thing for coolant temp sensor which is notorious on nissans check ur connections since early nissan wiring harnessses tend to corrod injector dont useually go bad on these nissans they usually leak like i said do ur basics again test spark fuel pressure timing then if everything checks out check input from sensors tps .5-.9 at idle maf 1.2-1.5 at idle coolant temp around 3.5 at normal engine temp easier to see with scanner iff u need any more info email me
Helpp! How do I adjust distributor bolt? Car running rough and bad MPG. Timing angle? Nissan?
Hi, please help!
My distributor adjusting bolt is all the way to the left side of the car (viewing it if you were inside the car facing forward, meaning the LEFT side of the car). The bolt was not like that before the mechanic replaced the timing belt. How do I change it back to the original position? The original position was in the middle. Do I need to take off the distributor or any other component?
I was told once by a mechanic that the bolt has to do with the firing angle and the power the car can give in every cycle. If my bolt in my nissan is ALL the way to the left (to the battery side, the driver side), does that mean its %26quot;advanced%26quot; or %26quot;retard%26quot; the timing? How do tell if its either one or the other?
I read in an article of another nissan car, that if the bolt is exactly in the middle, thats the closest you can get to STOCK TIMING.
My car lacks power...and the MPG is horrible! Thats why I replaced the timing belt, plug wires(seiwa), spark plugs (denso), air filter, fuel filter, engine oil, transmission oil/filter.
yet, the car is still feeling rough...Can the bolt be the problem?
the history of the problem in my car is:
1. Tried to remove a plug wire to replace spark plugs(NGK) but the wire got ruined, it split.
2. Bought new plug wires (SEIWA, same as stock).
3. The car was still lacking power.
4. Changed spark plugs (NGK, properly gapped).
5. The car lack power...
6. Replaced engine oil.
7. Replaced air filter. Still lacked power. mpg was ugly!
8. Took it to a mechanic.
9. He replaced the timing belt(with 82K miles on it, the manaul says to replace it at 60K), fuel filter, transimission oil/filter. The Distributor adjusting bolt was MOVED all the way to the left, yet he told me he didnt touched THAT bolt!! Fortunately I took pictures before taking it to the mechanic, and yes...the bolt was in the center before taking it to the mechanic.
10. Replaced the O2 sensor.
10. The car was still lacking power He checked the spark plugs....and said they were OK.
11. I told him to clean and check th fuel injectors (maybe one of them was faulty).
12. He checked/cleaned them, told me that they were OK...
13. Now..he said that the problem was the spark plugs....he replaced them with DENSO.
14. The car still feels ROUGH when pressing the pedal. And also sounds ROUGH. Also, lacking power since Ive driven the car for 3 years now.
15. Now, Im thinking about adjusting the distributor bolt....MAYBE thats the problem.
In conclusion, Im guesing he did NOT adjust PROPERLY the timing in the QUEST. Maybe one of the points mentioned before was the problem, but when he replaced the timing belt, he could have missed maybe a tooth of the belt/sprocket...Yet he says the belt was properly replaced!
Do I just need a socket wrench to adjust the bolt? What is the normal procedure when doing this? Do I need to set TDC piston 1? Can I do this while the engine is running? Should I hear for SOMETHING when adjusting it? Is the center position the best one? STOCK?
PLEASE HELP!!!!
1993 Nissan Quest GXE V6 VG30EHelpp! How do I adjust distributor bolt? Car running rough and bad MPG. Timing angle? Nissan?
put the bolt back to original position and try it if it dont run properly readjust and take it back to mechanic when hes open
My distributor adjusting bolt is all the way to the left side of the car (viewing it if you were inside the car facing forward, meaning the LEFT side of the car). The bolt was not like that before the mechanic replaced the timing belt. How do I change it back to the original position? The original position was in the middle. Do I need to take off the distributor or any other component?
I was told once by a mechanic that the bolt has to do with the firing angle and the power the car can give in every cycle. If my bolt in my nissan is ALL the way to the left (to the battery side, the driver side), does that mean its %26quot;advanced%26quot; or %26quot;retard%26quot; the timing? How do tell if its either one or the other?
I read in an article of another nissan car, that if the bolt is exactly in the middle, thats the closest you can get to STOCK TIMING.
My car lacks power...and the MPG is horrible! Thats why I replaced the timing belt, plug wires(seiwa), spark plugs (denso), air filter, fuel filter, engine oil, transmission oil/filter.
yet, the car is still feeling rough...Can the bolt be the problem?
the history of the problem in my car is:
1. Tried to remove a plug wire to replace spark plugs(NGK) but the wire got ruined, it split.
2. Bought new plug wires (SEIWA, same as stock).
3. The car was still lacking power.
4. Changed spark plugs (NGK, properly gapped).
5. The car lack power...
6. Replaced engine oil.
7. Replaced air filter. Still lacked power. mpg was ugly!
8. Took it to a mechanic.
9. He replaced the timing belt(with 82K miles on it, the manaul says to replace it at 60K), fuel filter, transimission oil/filter. The Distributor adjusting bolt was MOVED all the way to the left, yet he told me he didnt touched THAT bolt!! Fortunately I took pictures before taking it to the mechanic, and yes...the bolt was in the center before taking it to the mechanic.
10. Replaced the O2 sensor.
10. The car was still lacking power He checked the spark plugs....and said they were OK.
11. I told him to clean and check th fuel injectors (maybe one of them was faulty).
12. He checked/cleaned them, told me that they were OK...
13. Now..he said that the problem was the spark plugs....he replaced them with DENSO.
14. The car still feels ROUGH when pressing the pedal. And also sounds ROUGH. Also, lacking power since Ive driven the car for 3 years now.
15. Now, Im thinking about adjusting the distributor bolt....MAYBE thats the problem.
In conclusion, Im guesing he did NOT adjust PROPERLY the timing in the QUEST. Maybe one of the points mentioned before was the problem, but when he replaced the timing belt, he could have missed maybe a tooth of the belt/sprocket...Yet he says the belt was properly replaced!
Do I just need a socket wrench to adjust the bolt? What is the normal procedure when doing this? Do I need to set TDC piston 1? Can I do this while the engine is running? Should I hear for SOMETHING when adjusting it? Is the center position the best one? STOCK?
PLEASE HELP!!!!
1993 Nissan Quest GXE V6 VG30EHelpp! How do I adjust distributor bolt? Car running rough and bad MPG. Timing angle? Nissan?
put the bolt back to original position and try it if it dont run properly readjust and take it back to mechanic when hes open
2001 Dodge Neon having major problems?
How do I know if my timing belt is bad. I previously had a shop put in a used engine and the car was burning fuel twice as fast so 150 miles rather then getting 300 a tank. It also was dumping it in the oil. They told me it was my O2 sensors. They then cleaned mine both and the check engine light was off. It still burns gas like crazy and does have a loss of power compared to the other 2 engines that I had in the car. I know what this engine should drive like. So we still are dumping gas in the oil even after the o2 was cleaned. Now he says I need new ones and he will put them in for free. He swears he is something 4 letters certified and can work on any engine their is besides planes. If he cleaned them and its reading fine now, why change them. I spoke to about 10 different mechanics and such and they all said the 02 sensor would not do such a drastic change to the car. But their clean now. So what is the deal. Should I get the 2 sensors. He told me he can't guarantee that is the problem in writing but he knows it is. But if I fix that then he will tell me its my fuel injectors. Then he'll say it was those things that did my engine bad. He seems very persistent to have me change the o2 sensors and always says how im saving 200-300 in labor cost their. I will also mention that he told me that he pulled a code for my transmission and that may be why I lost some power. Crazy thing is when I took the car home and drove not 1 mile home. I checked my fluids, and my trany was empty.. not a drop on the stick. Yes the car idled and was running warm.. So I really think this guy sucked it out to get this trany code then forgot to put fluid back in or left it out so that way we would drive the car and then blow the trainy which saves them the labor on the engine. So I left the car parked and then went with my other car and got fluid for it. Right before I brought the car to him I had my codes ran from Auto Zone. Yes they do have a good machine that reads codes. Their was no trany code. 10 min later its at his shop and I leave it their to come back to find out we had the same codes plus he had a trany code.. Am I being shafted here and if so how do I sue a shop. Do I take it to 2 other shops and have them check out my car and then get the reports and then take him to court . Will the judge see in our favor. My wife is pregnant and in the navy so I think we can use Legal from the navy for this. Please help2001 Dodge Neon having major problems?
when you scan any vehicle you cannot make codes appear that are not there,so if he got codes from it they was true codes,if you are thinking about suing anyone you need more than one opinion on anything not just someones word for it,and you need proof that the problems really exist on the vehicle,if you sue and a judge see,s it in your favor then yes you,ll win other wise its a waste of time,you need a professional to help you with this matter that can diagnose your vehicle and tell you exactly what has and what hasn't been done to it and proceed from that point on with it,other wise its your word against his,good luck on this one i think you,ll need it.2001 Dodge Neon having major problems?
First off, yes, the mechanic is giving you the raw dawg. dont let him touch it ever again. Now on to your problem, the %26quot;new%26quot; motor you had put in (which most likely came from a junk yard and had 200k on it) has blown piston rings. Thats why you have less than adequate power, and aweful gas millage (the lack of power means the engine has to work harder to get the car moving which means a drastic drop in fuel millage. also gas is being lost into the oil). The only way gas can get into the oil is if the piston rings are shot. You need a new motor, one that did not come from a junk yard.heal acne scars ram interrogate
when you scan any vehicle you cannot make codes appear that are not there,so if he got codes from it they was true codes,if you are thinking about suing anyone you need more than one opinion on anything not just someones word for it,and you need proof that the problems really exist on the vehicle,if you sue and a judge see,s it in your favor then yes you,ll win other wise its a waste of time,you need a professional to help you with this matter that can diagnose your vehicle and tell you exactly what has and what hasn't been done to it and proceed from that point on with it,other wise its your word against his,good luck on this one i think you,ll need it.2001 Dodge Neon having major problems?
First off, yes, the mechanic is giving you the raw dawg. dont let him touch it ever again. Now on to your problem, the %26quot;new%26quot; motor you had put in (which most likely came from a junk yard and had 200k on it) has blown piston rings. Thats why you have less than adequate power, and aweful gas millage (the lack of power means the engine has to work harder to get the car moving which means a drastic drop in fuel millage. also gas is being lost into the oil). The only way gas can get into the oil is if the piston rings are shot. You need a new motor, one that did not come from a junk yard.
Helpp! How do I adjust distributor bolt? Car running rough and bad MPG. Timing angle? Nissan?
Hi, please help!
My distributor adjusting bolt is all the way to the left side of the car (viewing it if you were inside the car facing forward, meaning the LEFT side of the car). The bolt was not like that before the mechanic replaced the timing belt. How do I change it back to the original position? The original position was in the middle. Do I need to take off the distributor or any other component?
I was told once by a mechanic that the bolt has to do with the firing angle and the power the car can give in every cycle. If my bolt in my nissan is ALL the way to the left (to the battery side, the driver side), does that mean its %26quot;advanced%26quot; or %26quot;retard%26quot; the timing? How do tell if its either one or the other?
I read in an article of another nissan car, that if the bolt is exactly in the middle, thats the closest you can get to STOCK TIMING.
My car lacks power...and the MPG is horrible! Thats why I replaced the timing belt, plug wires(seiwa), spark plugs (denso), air filter, fuel filter, engine oil, transmission oil/filter.
yet, the car is still feeling rough...Can the bolt be the problem?
the history of the problem in my car is:
1. Tried to remove a plug wire to replace spark plugs(NGK) but the wire got ruined, it split.
2. Bought new plug wires (SEIWA, same as stock).
3. The car was still lacking power.
4. Changed spark plugs (NGK, properly gapped).
5. The car lack power...
6. Replaced engine oil.
7. Replaced air filter. Still lacked power. mpg was ugly!
8. Took it to a mechanic.
9. He replaced the timing belt(with 82K miles on it, the manaul says to replace it at 60K), fuel filter, transimission oil/filter. The Distributor adjusting bolt was MOVED all the way to the left, yet he told me he didnt touched THAT bolt!! Fortunately I took pictures before taking it to the mechanic, and yes...the bolt was in the center before taking it to the mechanic.
10. Replaced the O2 sensor.
10. The car was still lacking power He checked the spark plugs....and said they were OK.
11. I told him to clean and check th fuel injectors (maybe one of them was faulty).
12. He checked/cleaned them, told me that they were OK...
13. Now..he said that the problem was the spark plugs....he replaced them with DENSO.
14. The car still feels ROUGH when pressing the pedal. And also sounds ROUGH. Also, lacking power since Ive driven the car for 3 years now.
15. Now, Im thinking about adjusting the distributor bolt....MAYBE thats the problem.
In conclusion, Im guesing he did NOT adjust PROPERLY the timing in the QUEST. Maybe one of the points mentioned before was the problem, but when he replaced the timing belt, he could have missed maybe a tooth of the belt/sprocket...Yet he says the belt was properly replaced!
Do I just need a socket wrench to adjust the bolt? What is the normal procedure when doing this? Do I need to set TDC piston 1? Can I do this while the engine is running? Should I hear for SOMETHING when adjusting it? Is the center position the best one? STOCK?
PLEASE HELP!!!!
1993 Nissan Quest GXE V6 VG30EHelpp! How do I adjust distributor bolt? Car running rough and bad MPG. Timing angle? Nissan?
if he missed a tooth the car would not run, the timing could be part of the problem, if you do not know how, and do not have a timing light, there is no way to explain it to you on this forum. it is not too hard or expensive find a local shop who is willing to help and will set the timing for a quick 25 bucks, also you need to replace the distributor cap and rotor, this is part of a tune up.Helpp! How do I adjust distributor bolt? Car running rough and bad MPG. Timing angle? Nissan?
if you move the distributor to the end of the slot approx 12 degrees that makes up for about one tooth off. Sorry Your picture tells the story. I would suspect a mistake was done when the timing belt was replaced. Nissan Factory Timing belts have a dotted line for the rear (right bank1)cam sprocket and two solid lines for (front bank2) cam sprocket and solid line for crank sprocket with mark at approx 7 o'clock key way pointing at bank 1 Nissan Timing belt is very hard to get wrong. To set timing we use a strobe light timing light to align the timing mark on the crank pulley turning the distributor with the motor runing. Many times poor running can be caused by a bad photo optic sensor inside the distributor. Some time you can see the rough running with a diagnostic Scope watching the Ignition wave forms break up
My distributor adjusting bolt is all the way to the left side of the car (viewing it if you were inside the car facing forward, meaning the LEFT side of the car). The bolt was not like that before the mechanic replaced the timing belt. How do I change it back to the original position? The original position was in the middle. Do I need to take off the distributor or any other component?
I was told once by a mechanic that the bolt has to do with the firing angle and the power the car can give in every cycle. If my bolt in my nissan is ALL the way to the left (to the battery side, the driver side), does that mean its %26quot;advanced%26quot; or %26quot;retard%26quot; the timing? How do tell if its either one or the other?
I read in an article of another nissan car, that if the bolt is exactly in the middle, thats the closest you can get to STOCK TIMING.
My car lacks power...and the MPG is horrible! Thats why I replaced the timing belt, plug wires(seiwa), spark plugs (denso), air filter, fuel filter, engine oil, transmission oil/filter.
yet, the car is still feeling rough...Can the bolt be the problem?
the history of the problem in my car is:
1. Tried to remove a plug wire to replace spark plugs(NGK) but the wire got ruined, it split.
2. Bought new plug wires (SEIWA, same as stock).
3. The car was still lacking power.
4. Changed spark plugs (NGK, properly gapped).
5. The car lack power...
6. Replaced engine oil.
7. Replaced air filter. Still lacked power. mpg was ugly!
8. Took it to a mechanic.
9. He replaced the timing belt(with 82K miles on it, the manaul says to replace it at 60K), fuel filter, transimission oil/filter. The Distributor adjusting bolt was MOVED all the way to the left, yet he told me he didnt touched THAT bolt!! Fortunately I took pictures before taking it to the mechanic, and yes...the bolt was in the center before taking it to the mechanic.
10. Replaced the O2 sensor.
10. The car was still lacking power He checked the spark plugs....and said they were OK.
11. I told him to clean and check th fuel injectors (maybe one of them was faulty).
12. He checked/cleaned them, told me that they were OK...
13. Now..he said that the problem was the spark plugs....he replaced them with DENSO.
14. The car still feels ROUGH when pressing the pedal. And also sounds ROUGH. Also, lacking power since Ive driven the car for 3 years now.
15. Now, Im thinking about adjusting the distributor bolt....MAYBE thats the problem.
In conclusion, Im guesing he did NOT adjust PROPERLY the timing in the QUEST. Maybe one of the points mentioned before was the problem, but when he replaced the timing belt, he could have missed maybe a tooth of the belt/sprocket...Yet he says the belt was properly replaced!
Do I just need a socket wrench to adjust the bolt? What is the normal procedure when doing this? Do I need to set TDC piston 1? Can I do this while the engine is running? Should I hear for SOMETHING when adjusting it? Is the center position the best one? STOCK?
PLEASE HELP!!!!
1993 Nissan Quest GXE V6 VG30EHelpp! How do I adjust distributor bolt? Car running rough and bad MPG. Timing angle? Nissan?
if he missed a tooth the car would not run, the timing could be part of the problem, if you do not know how, and do not have a timing light, there is no way to explain it to you on this forum. it is not too hard or expensive find a local shop who is willing to help and will set the timing for a quick 25 bucks, also you need to replace the distributor cap and rotor, this is part of a tune up.Helpp! How do I adjust distributor bolt? Car running rough and bad MPG. Timing angle? Nissan?
if you move the distributor to the end of the slot approx 12 degrees that makes up for about one tooth off. Sorry Your picture tells the story. I would suspect a mistake was done when the timing belt was replaced. Nissan Factory Timing belts have a dotted line for the rear (right bank1)cam sprocket and two solid lines for (front bank2) cam sprocket and solid line for crank sprocket with mark at approx 7 o'clock key way pointing at bank 1 Nissan Timing belt is very hard to get wrong. To set timing we use a strobe light timing light to align the timing mark on the crank pulley turning the distributor with the motor runing. Many times poor running can be caused by a bad photo optic sensor inside the distributor. Some time you can see the rough running with a diagnostic Scope watching the Ignition wave forms break up
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