It started a little over a month ago, it just started cutting out, i first ran some lucus fuel treatment in it thinking maybe my injectors were dirty, then i put new plugs and wires in it, still had the same problem, well, I then went to the timing and changed the timing belt, still, so i had o'riellys test the ignition module, they said it was good, so i replaced, the crank position sensor, the coil pack, and still have the same problem. I loosened the catalytic converter, and that didnt help, then i changed the O2 sensor and still no help, i have changed and fuel filter and tested my fuel pressure, fuel pressure is good, so i have no idea were to check next, I rented a scan tool from O'riellys, and that was the reason i changed to O2 sensor, but it didnt say anything else. I have no idea were to start next, can anybody help?I have a 93 Ford Escort 1.9L, and it keeps cutting out, how do i fix this?
Try adding a thing of dry gas or gasline antifreeze to the tank the next time you fill up.
I owned an early 90's escort that would sputter and stop and slow down anytime the weather was cool/cold or damp/wet. Piece of American made crap.
Anyway, adding a bottle of gasline antifreeze stopped the problems until I finally blew the damn thing up.
Good luckI have a 93 Ford Escort 1.9L, and it keeps cutting out, how do i fix this?
try changing out the idle air intake valve
about 10 bucks
always start small then work your way up
if this is bad it will cause you car to just cut out at lights etc...I have a 93 Ford Escort 1.9L, and it keeps cutting out, how do i fix this?
check for bad ground wires around the battery area.they become corroded and damage . look for cracked air intake hose. remove idle speed control valve and look for carbon deposit build-up. if the inside shaft is shiney on one side,it is binding( replace it)I have a 93 Ford Escort 1.9L, and it keeps cutting out, how do i fix this?
Need a little more info. Has the idle control sensor been replaced on it? It sounds like you are going to have a new car by the time your done. Two other things that could be causing this are a bad camshaft or a clogged catalytic converter. It sounds like you've replaced about everything else on it.
Thursday, June 2, 2011
Is what I know enough?
I ask a similar question earlier. I'll ask another in a different way.
I myself some plumbing. I know how to change all the taps and shower in my house. I also know how to change the water pipes leading to the taps. I further know how to change the larger pipes that drains the water away from the sink. I also know how to install a new sink if I want to.
I also know how to install new lightings in our house, how to fix them to the ceiling, etc. I also know know how to change all the wall electric socket and add new ones through drilling.
I also know how to repair the heaters and coolers in my house. I know how to clean them of dust and dirt, and I know how to tear them apart and assembled them together.
Likewise, I also know how to basically service my car. I know how to change the car battery and I also know how to service and change the carburettor and fuel injector. But for this, there is still a lot to be learnt.
Of late, I am lucky to be able to toy with jet engines.Is what I know enough?
I don't understand the question......Enough for what??????
OK, I know what you mean now....I too live in the west, the SF Bay area, where the GAS is the highest in the nation.....Even though we have refineries....Bunch of rip-offs....
But anyway, I also know how to do just about everything you know except jet engines....But as every bodies parents, teachers, etc.etc. say, you can never learn enough.....
You were put on this earth for a reason.....So soak up all the knowledge that you can, and try to perfect it, after you do that you can build up the speed....That's how you can make your money.....
But to answer your question, no matter what you know, your always going to have to spend money to have somebody do what you can't.....Like the computer your writing this on.....That's life and the almighty DOLLAR.....
I hope I answered your question........Is what I know enough?
Thank you.
Sounds like your comfortable in your own world, but what if things change?
Things are evolving and if you don't stay on top of it what you know wont be enough, you will need help from someone who does.Is what I know enough?
It depends on what you want to do with that knowledge.
If you want to work on your own house, car, etc., and you're willing to foot the bill for any learning (whether it be via mistakes that you need to correct, or time spent figuring out things that a professional would already know), then you're home-free.
OTOH, if you want to work on other people's houses, cars or airplanes, you'll need to become licensed or certified. You'll either need to get formal training or be picked up as an apprentice by someone who's already a master and is willing to let you work your way up.
The one positive aspect of your self-acquired knowledge is that you will likely find any formal training to be easier than someone who's starting from square one.Is what I know enough?
sounds like you have a pretty rounded knowledge of %26quot;handyman%26quot; skillsIs what I know enough?
Enough for what? Can you cook? Make your own clothes?Suggest a duvet cover for me connect laptop to a tv
I myself some plumbing. I know how to change all the taps and shower in my house. I also know how to change the water pipes leading to the taps. I further know how to change the larger pipes that drains the water away from the sink. I also know how to install a new sink if I want to.
I also know how to install new lightings in our house, how to fix them to the ceiling, etc. I also know know how to change all the wall electric socket and add new ones through drilling.
I also know how to repair the heaters and coolers in my house. I know how to clean them of dust and dirt, and I know how to tear them apart and assembled them together.
Likewise, I also know how to basically service my car. I know how to change the car battery and I also know how to service and change the carburettor and fuel injector. But for this, there is still a lot to be learnt.
Of late, I am lucky to be able to toy with jet engines.Is what I know enough?
I don't understand the question......Enough for what??????
OK, I know what you mean now....I too live in the west, the SF Bay area, where the GAS is the highest in the nation.....Even though we have refineries....Bunch of rip-offs....
But anyway, I also know how to do just about everything you know except jet engines....But as every bodies parents, teachers, etc.etc. say, you can never learn enough.....
You were put on this earth for a reason.....So soak up all the knowledge that you can, and try to perfect it, after you do that you can build up the speed....That's how you can make your money.....
But to answer your question, no matter what you know, your always going to have to spend money to have somebody do what you can't.....Like the computer your writing this on.....That's life and the almighty DOLLAR.....
I hope I answered your question........Is what I know enough?
Thank you.
Report Abuse
Is what I know enough?Sounds like your comfortable in your own world, but what if things change?
Things are evolving and if you don't stay on top of it what you know wont be enough, you will need help from someone who does.Is what I know enough?
It depends on what you want to do with that knowledge.
If you want to work on your own house, car, etc., and you're willing to foot the bill for any learning (whether it be via mistakes that you need to correct, or time spent figuring out things that a professional would already know), then you're home-free.
OTOH, if you want to work on other people's houses, cars or airplanes, you'll need to become licensed or certified. You'll either need to get formal training or be picked up as an apprentice by someone who's already a master and is willing to let you work your way up.
The one positive aspect of your self-acquired knowledge is that you will likely find any formal training to be easier than someone who's starting from square one.Is what I know enough?
sounds like you have a pretty rounded knowledge of %26quot;handyman%26quot; skillsIs what I know enough?
Enough for what? Can you cook? Make your own clothes?
2000 plymouth breeze engine and transmission life span?
98.974 miles.2.4 dual overhead camshaft 16 valves engine.i added the stp fuel injector cleaner super concetrated every oil change keeping the injectors and others clean.i changes my spark plugs and wires every 3yrs or less.new timing belt and water pump installed at 97.300 miles before 99.000 miles.tranny flush every 30.000 miles almost that time to get it done at 104.000 miles.i change oil and oil filter every 3000 miles or 3 months or less. i also added stp oil treatment to keep everything in the engine lubricated.i use valvoline max life synthetic blend or full synthetic.and i change air filter every other oil change.i had this car since 2002.it was preowned.milage was 38.982.only thing it needs is an oil change.i kept this car maintained for years.no engine problems,no oil smoke blowing out.only problem i had was the tranny.new solenoid pack and input/output speed sensors installed.tansmission is still running fine.after all the years i kept my 2000 plymouth breeze maintained.how long does the engine and transmission last?hope this all help.thanks everyone.2000 plymouth breeze engine and transmission life span?
If you continue to maintain it like this and don't do any hard driving, this engine and transmission should have no problem going another 100,000 miles. You have stayed on top of the major changes and that檚 the 1 preventative maintenance that you can do. One thing you will want to do as you did not mention it, is to replace the fuel filter, and have the coolant flushed every 2 years. Keep it up and you should get some long and quality service out of the car.
If you continue to maintain it like this and don't do any hard driving, this engine and transmission should have no problem going another 100,000 miles. You have stayed on top of the major changes and that檚 the 1 preventative maintenance that you can do. One thing you will want to do as you did not mention it, is to replace the fuel filter, and have the coolant flushed every 2 years. Keep it up and you should get some long and quality service out of the car.
I just got a car, what should i change besides the oil?
nissan altima year 2000
the owner didnt tell me what he did.
i changed the oil, put in new coolant, installed new tires, changed the rotors, and front brakes. then i added some fuel injector cleaner in the gas tank
the car has like 183,000 km on it
anything else i should change?
i havent checked the rear brakes because i dont know how to put on rear brakesI just got a car, what should i change besides the oil?
Timing belt even if it %26quot;looks%26quot; to be in great shape. Change it. Check out the car jack by actually lifting the car and use the wheel wrench to take off the nuts. Sometimes they lose these things and just toss in any old jack which does not necessarily fit or work(which does not help you when you actually need it to fix a flat tire) on the side of the road in the rain one night out in the middle of nowhere and you are half drunk and the girl is wanting it in the cab but you are no longer in the mood because %26quot;things are not going your way outside%26quot;.
All the filters. Check your vacuum lines and V belts and rad hoses. and your smelly pine tree air fumigator on the rearview mirror.
Oh, and check to see that the spare tire is actually one that fits onto the car. Nothing like finding you have a 4 bolt hole pattern to fit a Ford and you have a 4 bolt Chev.
Rear brakes are getting to the time they need to be inspected and possibly replaced as they would possibly be pretty thin by now. Do it before metal to metal contact which would ruin the drums. Grab a repair manual from the library to find out how to do them. It is not that hard.
Also have the battery condition inspected(a load test) and the charging system checked.
You might want to eye-ball the exhaust system especially around the muffler where most of the rust occurs to see if it is rusted through.
Also, eyeball the shocks to see if oil is leaking from them. Also you should have looked at the old tires and see how evenly they were wearing. If worn out on the insides or the outsides indicates a wheel alignment is needed as the car does not travel straight down the road. Wearing out in the centre means he had too much air in the tires.
Oh yeah. Do the windshield wipers work(and the washer)? Headlights, high beam %26amp; low beam, brake lights, backup lights, signal lights, horn?
A radio would be nice too.I just got a car, what should i change besides the oil?
There is no set instructions on what you should do,but I would change spark plugs,wires,dist. cap(if have one),oil filter,air filter,flush radiator,check and change belts if you notice cracking in them,and maybe timing belt if the mileage is high.This will take care of most stuff that may cause problems.This also makes all items done when you know they were done.I just got a car, what should i change besides the oil?
check the back brakes. if you don,t know how to put them on then just pull both wheel. if you get in a bind then you can look at the other wheel. check to see if it has grease fittings on the ball joints and tie rods. you might want to grease them. change the air filter, pcv valve, check the belts and all the hoses including the vacuum hoses.I just got a car, what should i change besides the oil?
Sounds like you are on the right track.
Your engine uses a timing chain instead of a belt but verify this with a Nissan parts dept.
Read the owner's manual font to back and make note of maintenance intervals.
Check the condition and tension of the drive belts.
Air filter? Perhaps check one or two spark plugs? If the look a bit worn it's inexpensive to change them.I just got a car, what should i change besides the oil?
break fluids?
you might also wanna check there hasn't been saw dust pored in the engine! ;)
nah only joking with the saw dust, good luck with it all.
Sure you have already but if you havnt make sure to check the spare tire!I just got a car, what should i change besides the oil?
spark plugs/wires
air filter
fuel filter-doubt that has ever been changed
timing belt/water pump dont usually have to replace till around 100-120k
rotate tires
check all the fluids, make sure antifreeze still protectsI just got a car, what should i change besides the oil?
Pl check timming beltand timming bearing.Do some brake service and polish the brakes with emery paper.
Change air filter too.
good luckI just got a car, what should i change besides the oil?
Timing belt - CRITICALI just got a car, what should i change besides the oil?
tuneup, batteryI just got a car, what should i change besides the oil?
Transmission..
and check the spark plugs as well..
the owner didnt tell me what he did.
i changed the oil, put in new coolant, installed new tires, changed the rotors, and front brakes. then i added some fuel injector cleaner in the gas tank
the car has like 183,000 km on it
anything else i should change?
i havent checked the rear brakes because i dont know how to put on rear brakesI just got a car, what should i change besides the oil?
Timing belt even if it %26quot;looks%26quot; to be in great shape. Change it. Check out the car jack by actually lifting the car and use the wheel wrench to take off the nuts. Sometimes they lose these things and just toss in any old jack which does not necessarily fit or work(which does not help you when you actually need it to fix a flat tire) on the side of the road in the rain one night out in the middle of nowhere and you are half drunk and the girl is wanting it in the cab but you are no longer in the mood because %26quot;things are not going your way outside%26quot;.
All the filters. Check your vacuum lines and V belts and rad hoses. and your smelly pine tree air fumigator on the rearview mirror.
Oh, and check to see that the spare tire is actually one that fits onto the car. Nothing like finding you have a 4 bolt hole pattern to fit a Ford and you have a 4 bolt Chev.
Rear brakes are getting to the time they need to be inspected and possibly replaced as they would possibly be pretty thin by now. Do it before metal to metal contact which would ruin the drums. Grab a repair manual from the library to find out how to do them. It is not that hard.
Also have the battery condition inspected(a load test) and the charging system checked.
You might want to eye-ball the exhaust system especially around the muffler where most of the rust occurs to see if it is rusted through.
Also, eyeball the shocks to see if oil is leaking from them. Also you should have looked at the old tires and see how evenly they were wearing. If worn out on the insides or the outsides indicates a wheel alignment is needed as the car does not travel straight down the road. Wearing out in the centre means he had too much air in the tires.
Oh yeah. Do the windshield wipers work(and the washer)? Headlights, high beam %26amp; low beam, brake lights, backup lights, signal lights, horn?
A radio would be nice too.I just got a car, what should i change besides the oil?
There is no set instructions on what you should do,but I would change spark plugs,wires,dist. cap(if have one),oil filter,air filter,flush radiator,check and change belts if you notice cracking in them,and maybe timing belt if the mileage is high.This will take care of most stuff that may cause problems.This also makes all items done when you know they were done.I just got a car, what should i change besides the oil?
check the back brakes. if you don,t know how to put them on then just pull both wheel. if you get in a bind then you can look at the other wheel. check to see if it has grease fittings on the ball joints and tie rods. you might want to grease them. change the air filter, pcv valve, check the belts and all the hoses including the vacuum hoses.I just got a car, what should i change besides the oil?
Sounds like you are on the right track.
Your engine uses a timing chain instead of a belt but verify this with a Nissan parts dept.
Read the owner's manual font to back and make note of maintenance intervals.
Check the condition and tension of the drive belts.
Air filter? Perhaps check one or two spark plugs? If the look a bit worn it's inexpensive to change them.I just got a car, what should i change besides the oil?
break fluids?
you might also wanna check there hasn't been saw dust pored in the engine! ;)
nah only joking with the saw dust, good luck with it all.
Sure you have already but if you havnt make sure to check the spare tire!I just got a car, what should i change besides the oil?
spark plugs/wires
air filter
fuel filter-doubt that has ever been changed
timing belt/water pump dont usually have to replace till around 100-120k
rotate tires
check all the fluids, make sure antifreeze still protectsI just got a car, what should i change besides the oil?
Pl check timming beltand timming bearing.Do some brake service and polish the brakes with emery paper.
Change air filter too.
good luckI just got a car, what should i change besides the oil?
Timing belt - CRITICALI just got a car, what should i change besides the oil?
tuneup, batteryI just got a car, what should i change besides the oil?
Transmission..
and check the spark plugs as well..
My honda 91 Honda Civic DX stalls or dies on me when driving while slowing down to stop randomly, suggetions?
Basically its like it stalls and the battery light comes on, and it completely dies like it would of stalled. It gives me trouble starting back up and I have to hold the gas down and hope it starts back up. Does it to me multiple times when just going a mile down the road. We thought it could be the fuel pump, so we replaced that still didn't fix it, ran a bit better but still stalling randomly. We are going to try changing the fuel filter for sure, but wanted to know if anyone had any other suggestions on what it could be. I've read it could also be a number of these things...distributer cap, IAC valve(idle air control) and cleaning the throttle body with some carb and choke cleaner, fuel injector needs cleaning, ISC (idle speed control) motor, Spark Plugs. If anyone has any suggestions or can advise from how my situation which of these options it may or may not be I would really appreciate it! Thanks!My honda 91 Honda Civic DX stalls or dies on me when driving while slowing down to stop randomly, suggetions?
You should of replaced the fuel filter also because I pretty much guarantee it is that. By the way my car did the same thing and I did the same thing as you. Replaced the fuel pump but not the fuel filter and one day later it stalled again. then I replaced the fuel filter and it started right up. Good luck.My honda 91 Honda Civic DX stalls or dies on me when driving while slowing down to stop randomly, suggetions?
idle air control or a vacuum leak. if you have fuel injectors, do not give it gas while starting it. a diagnostic test is your only chance for a real fix!My honda 91 Honda Civic DX stalls or dies on me when driving while slowing down to stop randomly, suggetions?
change spark plugs and wires, and change O2 sensor, (oxygen sensor)My honda 91 Honda Civic DX stalls or dies on me when driving while slowing down to stop randomly, suggetions?
yse
You should of replaced the fuel filter also because I pretty much guarantee it is that. By the way my car did the same thing and I did the same thing as you. Replaced the fuel pump but not the fuel filter and one day later it stalled again. then I replaced the fuel filter and it started right up. Good luck.My honda 91 Honda Civic DX stalls or dies on me when driving while slowing down to stop randomly, suggetions?
idle air control or a vacuum leak. if you have fuel injectors, do not give it gas while starting it. a diagnostic test is your only chance for a real fix!My honda 91 Honda Civic DX stalls or dies on me when driving while slowing down to stop randomly, suggetions?
change spark plugs and wires, and change O2 sensor, (oxygen sensor)My honda 91 Honda Civic DX stalls or dies on me when driving while slowing down to stop randomly, suggetions?
yse
Why does the engine on my Fiat Bravo lose power when driving?
I have a 1.3 1997 Fiat Bravo. When driving the engine loses power and on occassion stalls. Sometimes the injector warning light comes on, but not always.
The car is kept well serviced, and specific to the problem we have had the following done.
Fuel filter cleaned,
Injectors checked (a fiat dealer said he thought he may have fixed the problem)
Changed petrol brand/garage.
Fuel regulator (the lever thing beneath the air filter) checked
It feels like the engine is starved, or flooded and this can happen during any driving condition (i.e. in traffic jams or doing 60mph on the motorway).
Has anyone had this problem (I have been behind a Fiat Brava with the same symptoms). And how was it fixed?
Personally I am thinking new car definetly not a Fiat!
Thanks.Why does the engine on my Fiat Bravo lose power when driving?
You seemed to suggest that you had this car serviced by a fiat dealer, if so, than, if the mechanic can't figure out what was wrong with it, a guy who is reading the symptoms on Y/A can't either.
Its 10 years old, this stalling problem is something you will have to get used to. If you are going to pay mechanics to fix everything that is wrong with it, its better to spend the money on a better car.Why does the engine on my Fiat Bravo lose power when driving?
I had a problem a couple of years ago with power loss,people were saying its the turbo etc, it happened to be the air mass meter, it cost about 拢150, to be fitted etc and after that it drove like new with ful power
Do you know what Fiat stands for? I'll tell you. F*cked in a tickWhy does the engine on my Fiat Bravo lose power when driving?
is the catalytic converter ok? sometime if its getting blocked then car will run fine in idle but it will lose power if it will go under load.Why does the engine on my Fiat Bravo lose power when driving?
Is the fuel line running to close the the hot block, and boiling the fuel ? Keep it away as far as possible. Good God...how I hate Fiats ! Ever hear of anyone owning more that one ?Why does the engine on my Fiat Bravo lose power when driving?
the fuel pick up pipe in the tank may have an obstructionWhy does the engine on my Fiat Bravo lose power when driving?
Firstly let me tell you this. Fiats are not the only cars that give problems. I work with a Subaru dealer and every day we have to face a new hateful problem which would take ages to identify (and these problems are on new cars such as the Impreza WRX, Legacy and Outback). Even the Fuji Heavy Industries (the company that makes the Subaru) couldn't find what the problem is. A friend of mine who works with the Volkswagen dealer also says that they have many problems that have to be solved with the guarantee such as clutch problems, ECU problems, injectors problems etc... The Ford aren't better cars either. Who says that the BMW and the Mercedes are the best I would like to tell him that many BMW's and Mercedes rust during the transportation and some of them in a few months after being sold (new ones) and I'm sure about this because I've seen these cars in the dealers' garages. So I would say that no car is perfect my friend.
As for your problem I would say that your car needs a good computer test because the problem you're having is some kind of an electric issue and not mechanical. You might need to replace a sensor or a remap in the ECU. But firstly a computer test is the first step with which the technician would be able to identify your problem.
Hope this helps mate and keep in my mind that no car is perfect !!!!!Why does the engine on my Fiat Bravo lose power when driving?
Well...I dont think your fiat dealer has been doing the right things at all.
Fiat are no worse or better than any other car manufacturer by the way. The good thing with Fiat (and Ford) is that the parts are cheap. Nissan parts for example are horribly expensive!
Anyway, on to your problem....
It is almost definitely a sensor problem (as the injector light comes on). A computer test may show which sensor is giving you grief and it may not, but the dealer should have tried this....did they?
Its likely to be one of the following sensors - Lambda Probe (the likely culprit and should have been tried first) or any of the following...MAF sensor or MAP sensor.....none of them are particularly expensive.
If its a sensor issue blame Greenpeace for your agro because the only reason a car has any of these is to regulate emissions and when one of them goes belly up your air/fuel mixture is effected and you get rubbish performance....other than that an engine does not need them.
Other things to consider...
Spark plugs and leads (I cant believe your dealer has not tried changing these!)
It is possible that there is a fuel blockage.....but this is fairly rare.
If you are in the UK I can let you know a few specialist Fiat mechanics that are much cheaper than fiat dealers and they do actually diagnose and fix problems!Why does the engine on my Fiat Bravo lose power when driving?
Its a 1.3 L man, thats not much power at all.Why does the engine on my Fiat Bravo lose power when driving?
i had the same problem it was a diaphragm in d bottom of d carburetor i had 2 buy a new carburetor , doesn't mean u have same problem but try it if want ?Why does the engine on my Fiat Bravo lose power when driving?
try replacing the entire fuel pipe it happened to me once it gets blocked up with the muck in petrol.
The car is kept well serviced, and specific to the problem we have had the following done.
Fuel filter cleaned,
Injectors checked (a fiat dealer said he thought he may have fixed the problem)
Changed petrol brand/garage.
Fuel regulator (the lever thing beneath the air filter) checked
It feels like the engine is starved, or flooded and this can happen during any driving condition (i.e. in traffic jams or doing 60mph on the motorway).
Has anyone had this problem (I have been behind a Fiat Brava with the same symptoms). And how was it fixed?
Personally I am thinking new car definetly not a Fiat!
Thanks.Why does the engine on my Fiat Bravo lose power when driving?
You seemed to suggest that you had this car serviced by a fiat dealer, if so, than, if the mechanic can't figure out what was wrong with it, a guy who is reading the symptoms on Y/A can't either.
Its 10 years old, this stalling problem is something you will have to get used to. If you are going to pay mechanics to fix everything that is wrong with it, its better to spend the money on a better car.Why does the engine on my Fiat Bravo lose power when driving?
I had a problem a couple of years ago with power loss,people were saying its the turbo etc, it happened to be the air mass meter, it cost about 拢150, to be fitted etc and after that it drove like new with ful power
Report Abuse
Why does the engine on my Fiat Bravo lose power when driving?Do you know what Fiat stands for? I'll tell you. F*cked in a tickWhy does the engine on my Fiat Bravo lose power when driving?
is the catalytic converter ok? sometime if its getting blocked then car will run fine in idle but it will lose power if it will go under load.Why does the engine on my Fiat Bravo lose power when driving?
Is the fuel line running to close the the hot block, and boiling the fuel ? Keep it away as far as possible. Good God...how I hate Fiats ! Ever hear of anyone owning more that one ?Why does the engine on my Fiat Bravo lose power when driving?
the fuel pick up pipe in the tank may have an obstructionWhy does the engine on my Fiat Bravo lose power when driving?
Firstly let me tell you this. Fiats are not the only cars that give problems. I work with a Subaru dealer and every day we have to face a new hateful problem which would take ages to identify (and these problems are on new cars such as the Impreza WRX, Legacy and Outback). Even the Fuji Heavy Industries (the company that makes the Subaru) couldn't find what the problem is. A friend of mine who works with the Volkswagen dealer also says that they have many problems that have to be solved with the guarantee such as clutch problems, ECU problems, injectors problems etc... The Ford aren't better cars either. Who says that the BMW and the Mercedes are the best I would like to tell him that many BMW's and Mercedes rust during the transportation and some of them in a few months after being sold (new ones) and I'm sure about this because I've seen these cars in the dealers' garages. So I would say that no car is perfect my friend.
As for your problem I would say that your car needs a good computer test because the problem you're having is some kind of an electric issue and not mechanical. You might need to replace a sensor or a remap in the ECU. But firstly a computer test is the first step with which the technician would be able to identify your problem.
Hope this helps mate and keep in my mind that no car is perfect !!!!!Why does the engine on my Fiat Bravo lose power when driving?
Well...I dont think your fiat dealer has been doing the right things at all.
Fiat are no worse or better than any other car manufacturer by the way. The good thing with Fiat (and Ford) is that the parts are cheap. Nissan parts for example are horribly expensive!
Anyway, on to your problem....
It is almost definitely a sensor problem (as the injector light comes on). A computer test may show which sensor is giving you grief and it may not, but the dealer should have tried this....did they?
Its likely to be one of the following sensors - Lambda Probe (the likely culprit and should have been tried first) or any of the following...MAF sensor or MAP sensor.....none of them are particularly expensive.
If its a sensor issue blame Greenpeace for your agro because the only reason a car has any of these is to regulate emissions and when one of them goes belly up your air/fuel mixture is effected and you get rubbish performance....other than that an engine does not need them.
Other things to consider...
Spark plugs and leads (I cant believe your dealer has not tried changing these!)
It is possible that there is a fuel blockage.....but this is fairly rare.
If you are in the UK I can let you know a few specialist Fiat mechanics that are much cheaper than fiat dealers and they do actually diagnose and fix problems!Why does the engine on my Fiat Bravo lose power when driving?
Its a 1.3 L man, thats not much power at all.Why does the engine on my Fiat Bravo lose power when driving?
i had the same problem it was a diaphragm in d bottom of d carburetor i had 2 buy a new carburetor , doesn't mean u have same problem but try it if want ?Why does the engine on my Fiat Bravo lose power when driving?
try replacing the entire fuel pipe it happened to me once it gets blocked up with the muck in petrol.
1999 Ford Ranger Problem, Please help, I have no clue what else to do...?
Alright, about three months ago my 1999 ford ranger xlt 3.0L v6 with flex fuel started to mess up, it was like it was loosing power... whenever i start it, it shakes, when i step on the gas it will cut out and then go but then cut out more and more and more, its a constant thing, hot or cold... i can drive on the highway but it takes forever to get up to speed because of the lack of power... I have changed the fuel pump and the screen and the filter inside the tank. I have also changed the fuel filter outside of the tank, and the lines. That cause me around $600. I have checked all my fueses because someone said to do that... I have checked my Transmition fluid. I have used a fuel injector cleaner. The truck still runs its just annoying and im not sure when its just going to leave me stranded. Please tell me what i can do to fix this, if you know what it is.. If you have any ideas of what it is tell me and tell me how to check if it is the problem you think it might be and please tell me how to fix this as well. thanks in advance.... 1999 Ford Ranger Problem, Please help, I have no clue what else to do...?
I would suggest that you take your Ranger to a Ford Dealer, have them run a diagnostic on your truck. Or, you could continue replacing parts until you hit upon the root of your trucks problem.
It sounds from your description that the plugs not firing properly. But
that is just an educated guess.
1999 Ford Ranger Problem, Please help, I have no clue what else to do...?
fuel injected engines all have a Fuel Pressure Regulator.It is on the return side of the looped fuel line. If the regulator is not maintaing a preset pressure for the car.. you will get varying amunts of fuel to the injectors as the engine runs. This sounds exactly like the symptoms you are experiencing.
Thereis a good chance that Autozone.com has a free online repair guide for your vehicle. Why not look it up? And also look up fuel regulator in the shopping section and it will show you a picture of what I am referring to.
Good luck.african american hair i have many invention ideas
I would suggest that you take your Ranger to a Ford Dealer, have them run a diagnostic on your truck. Or, you could continue replacing parts until you hit upon the root of your trucks problem.
It sounds from your description that the plugs not firing properly. But
that is just an educated guess.
1999 Ford Ranger Problem, Please help, I have no clue what else to do...?
fuel injected engines all have a Fuel Pressure Regulator.It is on the return side of the looped fuel line. If the regulator is not maintaing a preset pressure for the car.. you will get varying amunts of fuel to the injectors as the engine runs. This sounds exactly like the symptoms you are experiencing.
Thereis a good chance that Autozone.com has a free online repair guide for your vehicle. Why not look it up? And also look up fuel regulator in the shopping section and it will show you a picture of what I am referring to.
Good luck.
Issue(s) with '99 Mercury Cougar?
Hey all... I'm new here, and I'm looking forward to meeting you all, and learning from you. With that being said, here's the issue(s) (Sorry if it gets a bit long winded...)
My wife's 99 cougar has been acting up lately. I guess that this has been going on for some time, but she neglected to tell me (I guess she thinks I'm Kreskin and I was supposed to just know it was an issue). Anyways, It's gotten really bad in the past 3 days, when the temperature here dropped well below 0 degrees. The car seemes to start ok, and the RPMs goes up to about 1000, then it falters and stalls out, unless I keep my foot on the gas. When it stalls out, the whole car vibrates very badly. Her check engine light was on (and has been for about 2 years now), so I took my code reader and she had 14 errors. Here's the errors...
P1507 - IAC Underspeed Error
p0156 - HO2S Sensor Circuit Malfunction
p0402 - EGR Flow Excessive Detected
p1401 - DPF EGR Sensor Circuit High Voltage Detected
p1131 - lack of HO2S- switch
p1151 - lack of HO2S- switch
p0301-p0306 - cylinder 1-6 misfire
p0171 - Bank 1 too lean
p0174 - Bank 2 too lean
I erased the above codes so that I'd know what I had to start with.
I called a friend of mine and he in turned called a friend who used to work on fords/mercury's, and he said to check my Vacuum Advance Tube. Well, in the process of trying to figure out how to disconnect it from the boot after the MAF, I broke the flexible tube, so i went to the nearest Autoparts store and got a piece of tubing. My friend told me to plug up that tube and when I did that, the car seemed to respond back to normal. All indications pointed to some sort of a vacuum leak, since when the brakes are applied it took a little longer to stall out. After stubby-ing in a piece of hose, I still have the problem. Another friend suggested it might be a fuel pump, fuel filter, or maybe some gumming up of the gas lines since she has to park in the street and the fuel lines are setting up against the snow. So earlier today I changed the fuel filter. I was suprised that there was very little gas that spilled out as I installed the new one. This seemed to help the idle and it also seemed to keep the car from stalling out. I also added a can of heet and a fuel injector cleaner in the gas tank. The car has 64K miles, so i figured that it was time for new plugs. After changing out the plugs, the idle seemed to be worse. I seemed to be getting some backfires while keeping my foot on the gas and again when the car stalled out. I listened for any vacuum leaks in the engine compartment, and i didn't hear any. I did however hear a very repetitious noise that seemed to coincide with the white markings on the timing belt as it rotated, but that could be nothing. I also bled the brakes in the car, as she said they were getting %26quot;spongy%26quot; and she had a hard time stopping about 75% of the time. I did not notice any air bubbles in the fluid as I was bleeding the brakes. I also noticed a smell similar to burning plastic or rubber, and there is a big hesitation when pressing on the gas from idle. After letting the car run for about 3-4 minutes, the Check Engine Light came on, and I read the code again. This time it was P0300 (Random multiple Cylinder Misfire). I quintuple checked that I had all the spark plug wires in the correct positions. Although I did the plugs one at a time so I wouldn't get them mixed up.
So here's what I gathered from different forums for possible causes. Please tell me which ones I should just disregard as gobbledy-**** and which ones have some merit...
1. Fuel Pump (Title says it's a 99, but door tag says it was built on 6/10/98, so I'm not sure if the recall would apply.)
2. EGR valve stuck open and/or EGR solenoid valve clogged (most likely by the foam gasket)
3. Bad Idle Air Control Valve
4. Bad Differential Pressure Feedback EGR (DPFE)
5. leak in vacuum hose somewhere in engine compartment
6. Plugged/Semi-plugged Fuel line
7. Air inlet plugged (I assume they meant somewhere after the MAF)
I've done a lot of searching on several forums, and it seems that several people are having similar problems. However, it seems that everyone has a different answer for fixing the problem.
Please leave your comments and/or if you have another idea. (Telling me I'm a complete moron is acceptable... lol )
Thanks!Issue(s) with %26039;99 Mercury Cougar?
Just who are you trying to b/s ? There is a bunch of %26quot;mekaniks%26quot; on here that might give you some really intelligent answers. Have funIssue(s) with %26039;99 Mercury Cougar?
I am having a very similar problem...Spark what did you find out?
My wife's 99 cougar has been acting up lately. I guess that this has been going on for some time, but she neglected to tell me (I guess she thinks I'm Kreskin and I was supposed to just know it was an issue). Anyways, It's gotten really bad in the past 3 days, when the temperature here dropped well below 0 degrees. The car seemes to start ok, and the RPMs goes up to about 1000, then it falters and stalls out, unless I keep my foot on the gas. When it stalls out, the whole car vibrates very badly. Her check engine light was on (and has been for about 2 years now), so I took my code reader and she had 14 errors. Here's the errors...
P1507 - IAC Underspeed Error
p0156 - HO2S Sensor Circuit Malfunction
p0402 - EGR Flow Excessive Detected
p1401 - DPF EGR Sensor Circuit High Voltage Detected
p1131 - lack of HO2S- switch
p1151 - lack of HO2S- switch
p0301-p0306 - cylinder 1-6 misfire
p0171 - Bank 1 too lean
p0174 - Bank 2 too lean
I erased the above codes so that I'd know what I had to start with.
I called a friend of mine and he in turned called a friend who used to work on fords/mercury's, and he said to check my Vacuum Advance Tube. Well, in the process of trying to figure out how to disconnect it from the boot after the MAF, I broke the flexible tube, so i went to the nearest Autoparts store and got a piece of tubing. My friend told me to plug up that tube and when I did that, the car seemed to respond back to normal. All indications pointed to some sort of a vacuum leak, since when the brakes are applied it took a little longer to stall out. After stubby-ing in a piece of hose, I still have the problem. Another friend suggested it might be a fuel pump, fuel filter, or maybe some gumming up of the gas lines since she has to park in the street and the fuel lines are setting up against the snow. So earlier today I changed the fuel filter. I was suprised that there was very little gas that spilled out as I installed the new one. This seemed to help the idle and it also seemed to keep the car from stalling out. I also added a can of heet and a fuel injector cleaner in the gas tank. The car has 64K miles, so i figured that it was time for new plugs. After changing out the plugs, the idle seemed to be worse. I seemed to be getting some backfires while keeping my foot on the gas and again when the car stalled out. I listened for any vacuum leaks in the engine compartment, and i didn't hear any. I did however hear a very repetitious noise that seemed to coincide with the white markings on the timing belt as it rotated, but that could be nothing. I also bled the brakes in the car, as she said they were getting %26quot;spongy%26quot; and she had a hard time stopping about 75% of the time. I did not notice any air bubbles in the fluid as I was bleeding the brakes. I also noticed a smell similar to burning plastic or rubber, and there is a big hesitation when pressing on the gas from idle. After letting the car run for about 3-4 minutes, the Check Engine Light came on, and I read the code again. This time it was P0300 (Random multiple Cylinder Misfire). I quintuple checked that I had all the spark plug wires in the correct positions. Although I did the plugs one at a time so I wouldn't get them mixed up.
So here's what I gathered from different forums for possible causes. Please tell me which ones I should just disregard as gobbledy-**** and which ones have some merit...
1. Fuel Pump (Title says it's a 99, but door tag says it was built on 6/10/98, so I'm not sure if the recall would apply.)
2. EGR valve stuck open and/or EGR solenoid valve clogged (most likely by the foam gasket)
3. Bad Idle Air Control Valve
4. Bad Differential Pressure Feedback EGR (DPFE)
5. leak in vacuum hose somewhere in engine compartment
6. Plugged/Semi-plugged Fuel line
7. Air inlet plugged (I assume they meant somewhere after the MAF)
I've done a lot of searching on several forums, and it seems that several people are having similar problems. However, it seems that everyone has a different answer for fixing the problem.
Please leave your comments and/or if you have another idea. (Telling me I'm a complete moron is acceptable... lol )
Thanks!Issue(s) with %26039;99 Mercury Cougar?
Just who are you trying to b/s ? There is a bunch of %26quot;mekaniks%26quot; on here that might give you some really intelligent answers. Have funIssue(s) with %26039;99 Mercury Cougar?
I am having a very similar problem...Spark what did you find out?
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How to improve gas mileage on my 2001 Nissan Xterra 4x4 V6?
Any suggestions on how to improve my gas mileage? Last summer i was getting 18 to 19 mpg. Now I average 14 to 15. Nothing has changed externally that should cause this (i.e. bigger tires, grill guard) I've changed the oil regularly, I just changed the fuel filter, air filter, spark-plugs, wires, rotor and cap. My tire pressure is good. I've tried STP fuel injector cleaner from Autozone (they said it is guaranteed to increase the miles.. Nope!) They sold me on this stuff called Lucus fuel injector cleaner, don't know if it's worth trying or not... I don't notice a huge difference if i baby it while driving. It sucks the same amount of gas.
Any suggestions on what else i could do to get back to 18 19 mpg?How to improve gas mileage on my 2001 Nissan Xterra 4x4 V6?
Robert M mention cleaning IAC, what does IAC has anything to do with fuel economy?
IAC stands for Idle Air Control valve or solenoid. Its main purpose is regulate engine idle speed but absolutely has nothing to do with highway driving and fuel economy period.
Now for engine oil, Nissan uses regular engine oil since day one, I mean showroom fresh, the day someone buy their vehicle and drives off.
You were getting 18 -19 MPG last year, so what does oil has anything to do with sudden big MPG loss?
My suggestion is to take your vehicle to experience technician and explain him or her about your concern.
Yes, you may not like the idea but please keep reading.
Let them diagnosis your vehicle via scanner, there are few possibilities that can easily cause poor fuel economy.
1... Lazy oxygen sensor reading. In normal condition, oxygen sensors will fluctuate between .10 volts to .90 volts rapidly. Lazy oxygen sensor will reads too slow, this can easily kills your mpg.
2... Semi clogged Catalytic converter. Yes, you read it correctly, semi clogged converter, which can slowly restricted your exhaust system. Your motor cannot breathe freely like it used to be. It can be diagnosis on scanner by reading cat monitors [ another name for that is rear oxygen sensors] and comparing readings between front oxygen sensors and rear oxygen sensors.
3... Crankshaft sensor and camshaft sensor, once again, fluctuate readings can give computer false readings.
4...Barometric sensor and MAF sensor....again experience techs will know the differences.
You may say this, %26quot;My Check Engine Light%26quot; isn't on and my sensors are in good working order, unfortunately, that is incorrect. If your sensors falls within certain parameter, the computer will not throw %26quot;Check Engine Light %26quot; on.
Only experience techs will know what is going on by monitor various sensors via scanner. They may find something isn't kosher.
Example...
Lazy oxygen sensor, sometimes they read between .6 volts to .9 volts instead of .1 to .9 volts.
Technician will figure out why your oxygen sensor stays fluctuating on high side, technician will check other sources like vacuum leaks, fuel pump pressure, timing and other stuff.
If everything checks out ok, then it is just lazy oxygen sensor?viola..there goes your mpg.
One last thing, stop using too much fuel injector cleaners, you'll do more harm than good.How to improve gas mileage on my 2001 Nissan Xterra 4x4 V6?
you can bump mileage up by putting a good intake and/or exhaust system on it. if your driving habits are the same and nothing's changed on the car, something doesn't sound right about the mileage dropping by 5mpg in a year. i would have a mechanic check it and maybe do a full tune-up on it.How to improve gas mileage on my 2001 Nissan Xterra 4x4 V6?
Maybe the gear lube in the differentials/transfer case/ transmission.Are any of the brakes hanging up? E-brake on just alittle?Check the compression...worn cylinders? 4wheel alignment? There alot of variables that could effect MPG. good luck....added thought..plugged cat converter? Muffler?collapased pipe in the double wall section of the exhaust?How to improve gas mileage on my 2001 Nissan Xterra 4x4 V6?
First of all, locate remove and clean your IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE!! This will make a BIG difference. Next, de-sludge your engine and swear off regular oils FOREVER!!! Use Mobil One, or ELF oil that meets Nissan specifications. This will automatically reduce friction and improve MPG's. Also, install a set of Nippondenso Twin Tip spark plugs, or Bosch FUsion if you can't find the other. They will also improve power and fuel mileage. Good Luck! Hopefully, you were smart enough to use ONLY OEM ignition parts. WIres were a waste of money, totally. They should last the lifetime of your car. 2001 is NOT very old. Spark plug wires from factory are infinitely better than aftermarket replacements. Trust me!! Good Luck!!
Any suggestions on what else i could do to get back to 18 19 mpg?How to improve gas mileage on my 2001 Nissan Xterra 4x4 V6?
Robert M mention cleaning IAC, what does IAC has anything to do with fuel economy?
IAC stands for Idle Air Control valve or solenoid. Its main purpose is regulate engine idle speed but absolutely has nothing to do with highway driving and fuel economy period.
Now for engine oil, Nissan uses regular engine oil since day one, I mean showroom fresh, the day someone buy their vehicle and drives off.
You were getting 18 -19 MPG last year, so what does oil has anything to do with sudden big MPG loss?
My suggestion is to take your vehicle to experience technician and explain him or her about your concern.
Yes, you may not like the idea but please keep reading.
Let them diagnosis your vehicle via scanner, there are few possibilities that can easily cause poor fuel economy.
1... Lazy oxygen sensor reading. In normal condition, oxygen sensors will fluctuate between .10 volts to .90 volts rapidly. Lazy oxygen sensor will reads too slow, this can easily kills your mpg.
2... Semi clogged Catalytic converter. Yes, you read it correctly, semi clogged converter, which can slowly restricted your exhaust system. Your motor cannot breathe freely like it used to be. It can be diagnosis on scanner by reading cat monitors [ another name for that is rear oxygen sensors] and comparing readings between front oxygen sensors and rear oxygen sensors.
3... Crankshaft sensor and camshaft sensor, once again, fluctuate readings can give computer false readings.
4...Barometric sensor and MAF sensor....again experience techs will know the differences.
You may say this, %26quot;My Check Engine Light%26quot; isn't on and my sensors are in good working order, unfortunately, that is incorrect. If your sensors falls within certain parameter, the computer will not throw %26quot;Check Engine Light %26quot; on.
Only experience techs will know what is going on by monitor various sensors via scanner. They may find something isn't kosher.
Example...
Lazy oxygen sensor, sometimes they read between .6 volts to .9 volts instead of .1 to .9 volts.
Technician will figure out why your oxygen sensor stays fluctuating on high side, technician will check other sources like vacuum leaks, fuel pump pressure, timing and other stuff.
If everything checks out ok, then it is just lazy oxygen sensor?viola..there goes your mpg.
One last thing, stop using too much fuel injector cleaners, you'll do more harm than good.How to improve gas mileage on my 2001 Nissan Xterra 4x4 V6?
you can bump mileage up by putting a good intake and/or exhaust system on it. if your driving habits are the same and nothing's changed on the car, something doesn't sound right about the mileage dropping by 5mpg in a year. i would have a mechanic check it and maybe do a full tune-up on it.How to improve gas mileage on my 2001 Nissan Xterra 4x4 V6?
Maybe the gear lube in the differentials/transfer case/ transmission.Are any of the brakes hanging up? E-brake on just alittle?Check the compression...worn cylinders? 4wheel alignment? There alot of variables that could effect MPG. good luck....added thought..plugged cat converter? Muffler?collapased pipe in the double wall section of the exhaust?How to improve gas mileage on my 2001 Nissan Xterra 4x4 V6?
First of all, locate remove and clean your IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE!! This will make a BIG difference. Next, de-sludge your engine and swear off regular oils FOREVER!!! Use Mobil One, or ELF oil that meets Nissan specifications. This will automatically reduce friction and improve MPG's. Also, install a set of Nippondenso Twin Tip spark plugs, or Bosch FUsion if you can't find the other. They will also improve power and fuel mileage. Good Luck! Hopefully, you were smart enough to use ONLY OEM ignition parts. WIres were a waste of money, totally. They should last the lifetime of your car. 2001 is NOT very old. Spark plug wires from factory are infinitely better than aftermarket replacements. Trust me!! Good Luck!!
How much longer will my 92 nissan maxima last?
i have a 92 maxima with 239000 miles on it. I got it from a family member who took care of it perfectly for about the first 200,000 miles. All it has had replaced was the starter and a few of the fuel injectors. Ever month I am putting in fuel injector cleaner now and getting oil changes every 3000 miles. I am young so i drove it hard for about 5 months but now i drive it pretty well not treating it bad at all unless people like to go 60 in passing lane on the highway. But somthing with the front brakes is wrong and I need to get it fixed with in a few days. However other then that there is nothing wrong. How much longer do you think this car will last?How much longer will my 92 nissan maxima last?
yes, i agree this car is very very old. i wonder if the transmission has ever been serviced. if not, problems may arise with that. i had a 1990 maxima and it lasted until 135k until the transmission went out. it seems like you are taking good care of it though and older japanese cars like that will hold up for a long long time but 239,000 miles is a lot and its probably time to just throw in the towel and get a new one to be on the safe side.How much longer will my 92 nissan maxima last?
My suggestion: Make sure you have AAA coverage. You're on borrowed time.How much longer will my 92 nissan maxima last?
It is died already. What about buying a new car? Your is very old!!!How much longer will my 92 nissan maxima last?
You Nissan is an Asian car and will last forever if you take car of it. Get your brakes checked and keep doing what you are doing. My father in law has a 2001 Tundra with 323, 000 miles and aside from changing the oil and other preventative maintenance, he just had to replace the motor for the driver's side power window.How much longer will my 92 nissan maxima last?
I think you have time until 300000 miles Don't worry about itHow much longer will my 92 nissan maxima last?
Back in 2001, I bought a Nissan Maxima 1989 model from a friend of mine with around 150000 mileage. Now, mileage is around 290000 and is still doing good and in great shape. All I am doing as maintenance is making sure that I change engine oil and gear oil every 5000 miles or after 6 months whichever comes first. Below is my schedule:
1. Oil change every 5000 miles or every 6 months (synthetic oil).
2. Radiator overhaul every year. By the way, I use rain water.
3. Brake %26amp; Clutch maintenance jobs every 2 months.
4. I always make sure that all oil levels are on maximum level.
5. Sparkplug change every 6 months.
6. Alternator and Starter checkup every 6 months.
7. Search and repair car body for any new defects.
8. Replace shock absorbers every year and coil springs as needed.
9. Replace , balljoints, tierod ends,booshings and fittings every 6 months.
10. I use premium gas, not unleaded or any other else.
If you do the above, I am quite sure your car will go a long way. And oh, don't overload your car with passengers especially in long drives. 5 persons including driver should be the maximum.How much longer will my 92 nissan maxima last?
there is no answer to that question. u are asking how long until something breaks. just never know. just follow the recommended maintenance and u will do the best u can expect. the real question is: when something breaks is it worth the price to replace it given the higher probability that something else will break after that breaks and so on. i scrapped my nissan stanza when she was about 14 with 239k on her because the clutch went out at the exact same time as the fuel pump. i could have dropped 500 bucks in her but i decided it was time to say sayonara. the engine still ran strong and used little oil and the body was in good shape! jsut be sure to keep your cell phone with you in the car. being the fatherly type i would like to see u in a newer car with better airbags and abs. happy motoringHow much longer will my 92 nissan maxima last?
Don't worry. I understand your preoccupation, especially if you haven't had much experience. Issues with brakes are common. I have a 90 nissan sentra, and I recently had to replace the head gasket because I drove it for like a three months without water. Have the brakes serviced, and then get the compressions on the engine checked. This will tell you how the engine is running. If you start to see signs like too much black smoke, or if the engine is starting to burn too much oil, dump it before you have to pump a few thousand dollars into an engine orverhaul.
yes, i agree this car is very very old. i wonder if the transmission has ever been serviced. if not, problems may arise with that. i had a 1990 maxima and it lasted until 135k until the transmission went out. it seems like you are taking good care of it though and older japanese cars like that will hold up for a long long time but 239,000 miles is a lot and its probably time to just throw in the towel and get a new one to be on the safe side.How much longer will my 92 nissan maxima last?
My suggestion: Make sure you have AAA coverage. You're on borrowed time.How much longer will my 92 nissan maxima last?
It is died already. What about buying a new car? Your is very old!!!How much longer will my 92 nissan maxima last?
You Nissan is an Asian car and will last forever if you take car of it. Get your brakes checked and keep doing what you are doing. My father in law has a 2001 Tundra with 323, 000 miles and aside from changing the oil and other preventative maintenance, he just had to replace the motor for the driver's side power window.How much longer will my 92 nissan maxima last?
I think you have time until 300000 miles Don't worry about itHow much longer will my 92 nissan maxima last?
Back in 2001, I bought a Nissan Maxima 1989 model from a friend of mine with around 150000 mileage. Now, mileage is around 290000 and is still doing good and in great shape. All I am doing as maintenance is making sure that I change engine oil and gear oil every 5000 miles or after 6 months whichever comes first. Below is my schedule:
1. Oil change every 5000 miles or every 6 months (synthetic oil).
2. Radiator overhaul every year. By the way, I use rain water.
3. Brake %26amp; Clutch maintenance jobs every 2 months.
4. I always make sure that all oil levels are on maximum level.
5. Sparkplug change every 6 months.
6. Alternator and Starter checkup every 6 months.
7. Search and repair car body for any new defects.
8. Replace shock absorbers every year and coil springs as needed.
9. Replace , balljoints, tierod ends,booshings and fittings every 6 months.
10. I use premium gas, not unleaded or any other else.
If you do the above, I am quite sure your car will go a long way. And oh, don't overload your car with passengers especially in long drives. 5 persons including driver should be the maximum.How much longer will my 92 nissan maxima last?
there is no answer to that question. u are asking how long until something breaks. just never know. just follow the recommended maintenance and u will do the best u can expect. the real question is: when something breaks is it worth the price to replace it given the higher probability that something else will break after that breaks and so on. i scrapped my nissan stanza when she was about 14 with 239k on her because the clutch went out at the exact same time as the fuel pump. i could have dropped 500 bucks in her but i decided it was time to say sayonara. the engine still ran strong and used little oil and the body was in good shape! jsut be sure to keep your cell phone with you in the car. being the fatherly type i would like to see u in a newer car with better airbags and abs. happy motoringHow much longer will my 92 nissan maxima last?
Don't worry. I understand your preoccupation, especially if you haven't had much experience. Issues with brakes are common. I have a 90 nissan sentra, and I recently had to replace the head gasket because I drove it for like a three months without water. Have the brakes serviced, and then get the compressions on the engine checked. This will tell you how the engine is running. If you start to see signs like too much black smoke, or if the engine is starting to burn too much oil, dump it before you have to pump a few thousand dollars into an engine orverhaul.
Merc 230E keep dying out, pls help?
I have merc 230E which keeps dying out. I have tried two different mechanics, both have identified %26quot;root causes%26quot; but after changing out what they suggested, it still doesn't seem to solve the problem. Pls help.
Current Problems (I'm no expert at autos, so pls forgive if I use wrong terms for things):
1) Very often (not always) when I try starting the car, the engine will either refuse to come on all together, or the engine will go through some sluggish %26quot;jerks%26quot; before dying out. I'd press on accelerator and feed it some fuel, but when i release my accelerator the engine jerks and die out again. I can only press on accelerator, force my gear and get the car moving, then i have chance of getting my car going.
2) The car will suddenly die in the middle of the road, especially when slowing down or coming to stop.
Changed out fuel governor and injector. Tried divider. All doesn't work. Pls let me know how to solve this.... its driving me crazy...Merc 230E keep dying out, pls help?
take it to the nearest merc dealership they will carry out multiple tests and fix the prob. could be a known prob.
Current Problems (I'm no expert at autos, so pls forgive if I use wrong terms for things):
1) Very often (not always) when I try starting the car, the engine will either refuse to come on all together, or the engine will go through some sluggish %26quot;jerks%26quot; before dying out. I'd press on accelerator and feed it some fuel, but when i release my accelerator the engine jerks and die out again. I can only press on accelerator, force my gear and get the car moving, then i have chance of getting my car going.
2) The car will suddenly die in the middle of the road, especially when slowing down or coming to stop.
Changed out fuel governor and injector. Tried divider. All doesn't work. Pls let me know how to solve this.... its driving me crazy...Merc 230E keep dying out, pls help?
take it to the nearest merc dealership they will carry out multiple tests and fix the prob. could be a known prob.
Will replacing the speed sensor help gas mileage?
I had asked earlier why my speedometer and odometer weren't working and it was suggested that I replace the speed sensor, which I have on order for my '94 Saturn SL 4cyl vehicle.
I'm curious if replacing the speed sensor will have an affect on the gas mileage? We just bought the car yesterday, but it's in great shape and the engine seems strong. It's been recently tuned up along with a fuel injector cleaning. Oil has been changed as well as spark plug wires and O2 sensor.
Even with all that, it seems as though gas mileage isn't all that great. It's hard to tell just how far we had driven yesterday, but it was less than 200 miles and the tank was almost full. I just refilled it tonight after not driving it today.
For a 4 cyl car, that seems a bit low. Hence the reason for my question.
Will a speed sensor replacement help?
I will have another question regarding something else tomorrow in regards to the radio lights and heat/cooling panel lights not working. Fuses are all good.Will replacing the speed sensor help gas mileage?
No that just shows how fast you are going , Keep tires at proper pressure change fuel filter and try to drive within speed limit and avoid fast starts. hope this helps.Will replacing the speed sensor help gas mileage?
the speed sensor will not make any difference in your gas mileage.
good luckWill replacing the speed sensor help gas mileage?
Speed sensor will have no effect whatsoever on fuel economy. If you have dash lights not working you probably have burned out bulbs.Will replacing the speed sensor help gas mileage?
The speed sensor may improve you mileage due to the computer not being able to use all of its inputs so it reverts to a back up fuel mode. You fix the trouble and the check engine light goes out then it starts running on the program again.Will replacing the speed sensor help gas mileage?
Will replacing the speed sensor help gas mileage?
No, your speed sensor doent affect how much gar your gas consume, however it will be a good idea to repair it so you don't get a speed ticket.Will replacing the speed sensor help gas mileage?
you failed to mention how many gals. you put in i mean a tank dont tell you any thing you have to say gals. 200 mil. divided by 8 gal. and you've got 25 mpg which is a bit low but it could have 220 mils. and it could have been 7 gals. and here you are at 31 mpg and thats about right bu no your speed sensor will not help your mpgabout trade marks fungical infection skin
I'm curious if replacing the speed sensor will have an affect on the gas mileage? We just bought the car yesterday, but it's in great shape and the engine seems strong. It's been recently tuned up along with a fuel injector cleaning. Oil has been changed as well as spark plug wires and O2 sensor.
Even with all that, it seems as though gas mileage isn't all that great. It's hard to tell just how far we had driven yesterday, but it was less than 200 miles and the tank was almost full. I just refilled it tonight after not driving it today.
For a 4 cyl car, that seems a bit low. Hence the reason for my question.
Will a speed sensor replacement help?
I will have another question regarding something else tomorrow in regards to the radio lights and heat/cooling panel lights not working. Fuses are all good.Will replacing the speed sensor help gas mileage?
No that just shows how fast you are going , Keep tires at proper pressure change fuel filter and try to drive within speed limit and avoid fast starts. hope this helps.Will replacing the speed sensor help gas mileage?
the speed sensor will not make any difference in your gas mileage.
good luckWill replacing the speed sensor help gas mileage?
Speed sensor will have no effect whatsoever on fuel economy. If you have dash lights not working you probably have burned out bulbs.Will replacing the speed sensor help gas mileage?
The speed sensor may improve you mileage due to the computer not being able to use all of its inputs so it reverts to a back up fuel mode. You fix the trouble and the check engine light goes out then it starts running on the program again.Will replacing the speed sensor help gas mileage?
Will replacing the speed sensor help gas mileage?
No, your speed sensor doent affect how much gar your gas consume, however it will be a good idea to repair it so you don't get a speed ticket.Will replacing the speed sensor help gas mileage?
you failed to mention how many gals. you put in i mean a tank dont tell you any thing you have to say gals. 200 mil. divided by 8 gal. and you've got 25 mpg which is a bit low but it could have 220 mils. and it could have been 7 gals. and here you are at 31 mpg and thats about right bu no your speed sensor will not help your mpg
1989 Ford Probe GT..Wont start but i think its somthing simple??PLEASE HELP =(?
I just bought a 89 Ford probe. It kept bogging out on me. So i changed the fuel filter put some 93 octane and some fuel injector cleaner in it.. After that i drove it too work back home to another family's then home. Let it set for about 2 hours then went out tried to start it and it will not start.. I took the fuel line off one side of the fuel filter and see if the fuel pump was working it shot gas.. Hooked the line back up and the car started with no hesitation. Let it run for a minute then shut it back off then fired it right back up.. Come inside for about 10 minutes then tried starting it again and it wont start??? How could this possibly be??? Please help1989 Ford Probe GT..Wont start but i think its somthing simple??PLEASE HELP =(?
Don r is right but also you may need to have the Fuel Tank and Filter in the Tank checked, sounds like you're picking up something out of the tank and it's getting throw to the Filter because the Filter in the tank is Bad. %26quot;Yes there are two Filters but the one in the tank almost never need to be changed%26quot;.1989 Ford Probe GT..Wont start but i think its somthing simple??PLEASE HELP =(?
When you shook up the fuel filter the corruption plugging it was dislodged. Put a new, clean filter on it. If you're stuck, shake or knock on the filter so you can drive it home.
Don r is right but also you may need to have the Fuel Tank and Filter in the Tank checked, sounds like you're picking up something out of the tank and it's getting throw to the Filter because the Filter in the tank is Bad. %26quot;Yes there are two Filters but the one in the tank almost never need to be changed%26quot;.1989 Ford Probe GT..Wont start but i think its somthing simple??PLEASE HELP =(?
When you shook up the fuel filter the corruption plugging it was dislodged. Put a new, clean filter on it. If you're stuck, shake or knock on the filter so you can drive it home.
Why is my car driving sporadically and can it be fixed easily?
I have a 1990 Nissan Sentra, and for nearly four months I've been dealing with this problem. I'll turn on my car and drive for about 5 minutes and suddenly my car will start to sputter. When I try to accelerate, my car doesn't, and it feels like it's running in neutral. It is a four-cylinder manual drive. My grandparents who gave me the car tell me it might be the fuel injector, but I've changed this to no avail. I also heard other solutions which I haven't implemented for I want to make sure others might agree with the solution. Also, it seems that my car is burning oil. I've heard this could be any number of problems like bad rings or even transmission. I don't have a clue. Lastly, will I personally be able to fix this myself with ease and how much will it cost? Any advice is appreciated. Thank you.Why is my car driving sporadically and can it be fixed easily?
There are a number of possibilities, and they range from a cheap easy fix to possibly more than the car is worth. The first question would be how long has it been since the spark plugs were changed? If they are worn out, they may still create enough spark for the car to run in warm-up mode (most cars add extra gas for the first few minutes to help the engine run better until it has been able to warm up), but not afterward. Otherwise, it could be a failing fuel pump, which is inside the gas tank for most fuel injected cars and is a pain to change (you have to deal with rusty bolts and drop the gas tank to get at the pump). Another possibility is a malfunctioning sensor, because most cars don't use all the sensors while in the initial %26quot;warm up%26quot; mode. These are just a few possibilities I could think of without actually personally seeing what the car is doing. If the check engine light turns on when the car starts acting up, some auto parts stores will hook up a diagnostic computer for you and read the error codes stored in the computer, but not all of them do so call and ask. I hope this helps!Why is my car driving sporadically and can it be fixed easily?
if the engine runs normally when the car is not moving then the best guess is the clutch, when is cold there is enough viscosity to move the car but when it reach the operating temperature then the rotors expanding and slippingWhy is my car driving sporadically and can it be fixed easily?
if it revs up when you give it gas its more than likly the clutch and if it spits and sputters and acts like its running out of gas its the fuel pump or fuel filter and depending on if the pump is in the gas tank it might not be worth replacing
There are a number of possibilities, and they range from a cheap easy fix to possibly more than the car is worth. The first question would be how long has it been since the spark plugs were changed? If they are worn out, they may still create enough spark for the car to run in warm-up mode (most cars add extra gas for the first few minutes to help the engine run better until it has been able to warm up), but not afterward. Otherwise, it could be a failing fuel pump, which is inside the gas tank for most fuel injected cars and is a pain to change (you have to deal with rusty bolts and drop the gas tank to get at the pump). Another possibility is a malfunctioning sensor, because most cars don't use all the sensors while in the initial %26quot;warm up%26quot; mode. These are just a few possibilities I could think of without actually personally seeing what the car is doing. If the check engine light turns on when the car starts acting up, some auto parts stores will hook up a diagnostic computer for you and read the error codes stored in the computer, but not all of them do so call and ask. I hope this helps!Why is my car driving sporadically and can it be fixed easily?
if the engine runs normally when the car is not moving then the best guess is the clutch, when is cold there is enough viscosity to move the car but when it reach the operating temperature then the rotors expanding and slippingWhy is my car driving sporadically and can it be fixed easily?
if it revs up when you give it gas its more than likly the clutch and if it spits and sputters and acts like its running out of gas its the fuel pump or fuel filter and depending on if the pump is in the gas tank it might not be worth replacing
Old Diesel Mercedes. Can I add dexton 4 to my fuel to clean out injectors?
I was recomended by this mechanic to add a half quart of transmission fluid to my tank to clean out the fuel injecters and fuel tank. Is this good idea? Can I do any real damage?
I just had to replace my fuel pump due to clogged fuel filter and dirty fuel line and tank in my newly bought 80 diesel cd. The folks who fixed it thought it was a good idea to add some, and keep an eye on the filter.
Also, how dirty should the pre filter be before I change it?Old Diesel Mercedes. Can I add dexton 4 to my fuel to clean out injectors?
Use a product called sea foam ez to find
I just had to replace my fuel pump due to clogged fuel filter and dirty fuel line and tank in my newly bought 80 diesel cd. The folks who fixed it thought it was a good idea to add some, and keep an eye on the filter.
Also, how dirty should the pre filter be before I change it?Old Diesel Mercedes. Can I add dexton 4 to my fuel to clean out injectors?
Use a product called sea foam ez to find
How much to repair Her truck?
My daughter has a 2000, F 250 Ford Power stroke V8. How much should it cost to replace all the fuel injectors. She was told that there are 8 O-Rings per injector and just to change them would be a little over a full days work and a $1,000,00..8 O-rings per injector doesn't sound right to me, that's why I'm asking. This truck is a crew cab and is red. She calls it the big red *****.How much to repair Her truck?
a thousand dollars would be cheap to have all the injectors replaced. the injectors are about $100.00 each and it does take about 7 hours to change them that means they are charging you $200.00 for labor. thats cheapHow much to repair Her truck?
I don't know how many o rings are on each injector but they should come with the injectors. I don't buy into the whole it takes a day bullcrap but the 1,000 dollars doesn't suprise me. I would look into some aftermarket injectors. they'll probably be cheaper than ford and she could actually go up a size or two and have more power
a thousand dollars would be cheap to have all the injectors replaced. the injectors are about $100.00 each and it does take about 7 hours to change them that means they are charging you $200.00 for labor. thats cheapHow much to repair Her truck?
I don't know how many o rings are on each injector but they should come with the injectors. I don't buy into the whole it takes a day bullcrap but the 1,000 dollars doesn't suprise me. I would look into some aftermarket injectors. they'll probably be cheaper than ford and she could actually go up a size or two and have more power
Is this a problem with my injectors? (Diesel Engine)?
I've got a 1990 Turbo Diesel VW Jetta. Lately it's been starting hard, running rough (though slightly better after it warms up) and producing a terrible amount of smoke. Originally I thought it might be getting air in the fuel lines, but I don't think it's that anymore. I've tried running diesel injector cleaner straight in the IP. The engine ran slightly better off of the cleaner but there was basically no improvement when I switched back to regular diesel.
So I'm wondering if there's anyway to know if the problem is in the injectors before I take it in. I know I can get a diagnostic test done, but doing that before I potentially change the injectors adds another $160 or so to the bill.
How can I tell if the problem isn't because of my fuel pump dying or damage to my cylinders (in which case I'd probably be best just to give up on the car)?Is this a problem with my injectors? (Diesel Engine)?
Heck no its not time for another motor. Diesels dont wear out...the diesel components do. Probably a gasket and injector issue. Keep an eye on the oil level. If the engine is eating the oil you need to have something else checked out (turbo)...but doubt it. Start heading to the shop for some injectors or injector rebuildIs this a problem with my injectors? (Diesel Engine)?
for fuel pump checks you need to check pressure at fuel rail. but if smoking it is probably worn injectors, if a high mileage engine, or a sticking injector. If cylinder damage a compression check will tell you if done correctly.Is this a problem with my injectors? (Diesel Engine)?
time for a new motordermatologist advice kids myspace
So I'm wondering if there's anyway to know if the problem is in the injectors before I take it in. I know I can get a diagnostic test done, but doing that before I potentially change the injectors adds another $160 or so to the bill.
How can I tell if the problem isn't because of my fuel pump dying or damage to my cylinders (in which case I'd probably be best just to give up on the car)?Is this a problem with my injectors? (Diesel Engine)?
Heck no its not time for another motor. Diesels dont wear out...the diesel components do. Probably a gasket and injector issue. Keep an eye on the oil level. If the engine is eating the oil you need to have something else checked out (turbo)...but doubt it. Start heading to the shop for some injectors or injector rebuildIs this a problem with my injectors? (Diesel Engine)?
for fuel pump checks you need to check pressure at fuel rail. but if smoking it is probably worn injectors, if a high mileage engine, or a sticking injector. If cylinder damage a compression check will tell you if done correctly.Is this a problem with my injectors? (Diesel Engine)?
time for a new motor
Removing the fuel injector on a 2000 softail?
I am changing the tank on my 2000 harley softail and need some details on how to remove the fuel injector from the old tank.Removing the fuel injector on a 2000 softail?
You would be hard pressed to find a fuel injector in or on the fuel tank. If you mean the fuel line, its a slip collar and works like a air hose connector: slide up the collar, pull the nipple out. The crossover tube, unless it has a custom hose has two one-time use clamps that require cutting off with a set of diagonal side cutters. The wire loom is under the center....Removing the fuel injector on a 2000 softail?
Just like the doc says the fuel pump stuff in the tank has to be changed too unless the new tank has it all, but if it all has to be changed over it would be smart to make sure the screen and o-rings are up to par 'cause pulling it it all back down again is gonna suck if there's any internal integrity problems. There's a fuel tank service-pak I think is available (doc??) if it is, get it.
Nice going PB on leaving out the electrical safety info.Removing the fuel injector on a 2000 softail?
Like Polarbear said, no injectors in or on the tank. It does have the fuel lines you have to remove as per his directions. But you also have the fuel pump assembly INSIDE the tank, the removal process for this is too long to explain here.....you seriously need to buy a FACTORY service manual or have a shop do the job for you. If you do decide to do the job youself, this is a MUST.....DISCONNECT THE BATTERY!!!....when dealing with the fuel pump, it's electrical inside a gas tank, you don't want any sparks....so be careful.
You would be hard pressed to find a fuel injector in or on the fuel tank. If you mean the fuel line, its a slip collar and works like a air hose connector: slide up the collar, pull the nipple out. The crossover tube, unless it has a custom hose has two one-time use clamps that require cutting off with a set of diagonal side cutters. The wire loom is under the center....Removing the fuel injector on a 2000 softail?
Just like the doc says the fuel pump stuff in the tank has to be changed too unless the new tank has it all, but if it all has to be changed over it would be smart to make sure the screen and o-rings are up to par 'cause pulling it it all back down again is gonna suck if there's any internal integrity problems. There's a fuel tank service-pak I think is available (doc??) if it is, get it.
Nice going PB on leaving out the electrical safety info.Removing the fuel injector on a 2000 softail?
Like Polarbear said, no injectors in or on the tank. It does have the fuel lines you have to remove as per his directions. But you also have the fuel pump assembly INSIDE the tank, the removal process for this is too long to explain here.....you seriously need to buy a FACTORY service manual or have a shop do the job for you. If you do decide to do the job youself, this is a MUST.....DISCONNECT THE BATTERY!!!....when dealing with the fuel pump, it's electrical inside a gas tank, you don't want any sparks....so be careful.
Fuel injection 2003 tahoe?
how do you check the fuel injectors on a 2003 chev tahoe, my tahoe stalls, when i let off the gas, like coming to a stop, making a turn, backing up...the engie will start up with no problem, i've changed my oil, oil filter, fuel pump, fuel screen, fuel filter, given my tahoe a full tune up, still stalling when rpm's drops below 5Fuel injection 2003 tahoe?
number one your tahoe should never drop below 500 rpms !
if it is dropping that low it is bound to die. it sounds like the Idle air controll on the throtle body is out or at least all crudded up with carbon. clean the throttle body really good and check and or replace the idle air controll valve. that should probably fix the problem.Fuel injection 2003 tahoe?
You have to first check to see if the computer is storing any codes that would affect the driveability of the unit. If there are no clues here, I would suggest doing a power flush on the injectors using none of your fuel in the tank and only a mixture or gas and cleaner in a self pressurized tank available at most shops. Also I would disassemble and inspect around the intake inlet for signs of a lot of blackened soot and crud. This is all around the throttle plates and through the ports leading to the IAC. Remove the IAC also to clean and inspect it. If the IAC is fully extended, it is either faulty or you have a vacuum leak. I would clean everything as good as possible and recheck. Good luck.Fuel injection 2003 tahoe?
I assume this is a gen III motor. (4.8L, 5.3L, or 6.0L). Is the check engine light on?? If so, plug in a scan tool (auto zone will do it for you for free) and fix whatever sensor is bad. I worked on these as a development tech at the GM Proving grounds. Remember.....fuel, air, spark. Sounds like you have fuel (new pump and filter). It starts and runs (has spark). If it doesn't miss while it's running I would doubt the injector's are bad. I think you might have an air problem. Look in the direction of the throttle body. I think you might have a bad IAC (Intake Air Control) motor or something related like the MAF (Mass Air Flow sensor). The IAC is like the old solenoid that used to step up the throttle on an old carburetor when you turned the air on. It controls idle speed. Good luck!
number one your tahoe should never drop below 500 rpms !
if it is dropping that low it is bound to die. it sounds like the Idle air controll on the throtle body is out or at least all crudded up with carbon. clean the throttle body really good and check and or replace the idle air controll valve. that should probably fix the problem.Fuel injection 2003 tahoe?
You have to first check to see if the computer is storing any codes that would affect the driveability of the unit. If there are no clues here, I would suggest doing a power flush on the injectors using none of your fuel in the tank and only a mixture or gas and cleaner in a self pressurized tank available at most shops. Also I would disassemble and inspect around the intake inlet for signs of a lot of blackened soot and crud. This is all around the throttle plates and through the ports leading to the IAC. Remove the IAC also to clean and inspect it. If the IAC is fully extended, it is either faulty or you have a vacuum leak. I would clean everything as good as possible and recheck. Good luck.Fuel injection 2003 tahoe?
I assume this is a gen III motor. (4.8L, 5.3L, or 6.0L). Is the check engine light on?? If so, plug in a scan tool (auto zone will do it for you for free) and fix whatever sensor is bad. I worked on these as a development tech at the GM Proving grounds. Remember.....fuel, air, spark. Sounds like you have fuel (new pump and filter). It starts and runs (has spark). If it doesn't miss while it's running I would doubt the injector's are bad. I think you might have an air problem. Look in the direction of the throttle body. I think you might have a bad IAC (Intake Air Control) motor or something related like the MAF (Mass Air Flow sensor). The IAC is like the old solenoid that used to step up the throttle on an old carburetor when you turned the air on. It controls idle speed. Good luck!
How do I fix my 99 Chevy Blazer?
At first we thought it was the fuel filter. We changed it and it is still doing what it was before we changed the fuel filter. It acts as if the lines are blacked by something. It will crank but it won't stay cranked. One person told me that it isn't getting fuel to the throttle body. Another person said that it sounds like we need to replace the injector assembly on it. I need help bad. It's my only transportation. Please help me.How do I fix my 99 Chevy Blazer?
Test the pump's flow %26amp; psi before you start throwing parts / money at it. You can test the injectors also.How do I fix my 99 Chevy Blazer?
You say %26quot;It will crank but it won't stay cranked%26quot;. Does this mean it doesn't start, or it starts then dies quickly?
Anyways, the first thing to do is make sure it is getting gas.
If is is multi-port fuel injection (which I would think it does), then there should be a shrader valve on the fuel rail. It is just like the valve on your tires. Remove the cap (if there is one), and press the valve. But LOOK OUT, when there is 50psi fuel in there, it shoots several feet.
Release the pressure, then turn the key on for about 15 seconds to pressurize the system again, and check the valve again. If it has pressure again, you know it's getting fuel. Of course, an injector could be plugged.
Then the next thing would probably be to check the spark. Are the plugs in good shape? The wires?
How do I fix my 99 Chevy Blazer?
Use some starting fluid in the intake to verify that it is a fuel problem. If the vehicle starts but shuts off after a few seconds it's most likely a fuel problem. Can you hear the fuel pump working? Have you checked the fuel pressure? Your explanation is a little to vague to pin point a specific problem.How do I fix my 99 Chevy Blazer?
Guessing won't fix it. I don't know how a truck %26quot;acts%26quot; like the lines are clogged. You need some equipment and knowledge to test the systems. If you need the truck, you're wasting time letting friends guess what to change next. It could be something simple. How do I fix my 99 Chevy Blazer?
Fuel pump is bad.How do I fix my 99 Chevy Blazer?
everyone goes for fuel problem...if i look at 100 cars with your problem 95 have an ignition problem...its a 99 ever been tuned up...plugs,wires that kind of stuff...was check engine lite on...there's ur sign,
Test the pump's flow %26amp; psi before you start throwing parts / money at it. You can test the injectors also.How do I fix my 99 Chevy Blazer?
You say %26quot;It will crank but it won't stay cranked%26quot;. Does this mean it doesn't start, or it starts then dies quickly?
Anyways, the first thing to do is make sure it is getting gas.
If is is multi-port fuel injection (which I would think it does), then there should be a shrader valve on the fuel rail. It is just like the valve on your tires. Remove the cap (if there is one), and press the valve. But LOOK OUT, when there is 50psi fuel in there, it shoots several feet.
Release the pressure, then turn the key on for about 15 seconds to pressurize the system again, and check the valve again. If it has pressure again, you know it's getting fuel. Of course, an injector could be plugged.
Then the next thing would probably be to check the spark. Are the plugs in good shape? The wires?
How do I fix my 99 Chevy Blazer?
Use some starting fluid in the intake to verify that it is a fuel problem. If the vehicle starts but shuts off after a few seconds it's most likely a fuel problem. Can you hear the fuel pump working? Have you checked the fuel pressure? Your explanation is a little to vague to pin point a specific problem.How do I fix my 99 Chevy Blazer?
Guessing won't fix it. I don't know how a truck %26quot;acts%26quot; like the lines are clogged. You need some equipment and knowledge to test the systems. If you need the truck, you're wasting time letting friends guess what to change next. It could be something simple. How do I fix my 99 Chevy Blazer?
Fuel pump is bad.How do I fix my 99 Chevy Blazer?
everyone goes for fuel problem...if i look at 100 cars with your problem 95 have an ignition problem...its a 99 ever been tuned up...plugs,wires that kind of stuff...was check engine lite on...there's ur sign,
Does anybody else have any problems with a 05 Dodge Stratus?
Im having horible luck with my car %26amp; it only 2 yrs old!
I still owe 11 grand on it %26amp; it seems like my car is giving up on me.
I still have a warranty on it but everything that is wrong with it is not covered under it.
I have bad fuel injectors (happens to be covered under warranty but with stipluations)
I have an emissions leak? (was told i have a leak in exhaust manifold)
* about the fuel injectors *
I have had them changed almost 4 times! All of them. I could understand it if it was just a few here %26amp; there, but all of them? 4 times?
This is an 05 Dodge Stratus, people. WTF?
Im ashamed to say how much money I have put into getting this car fixed only to have it broke. Again. %26amp; Again. %26amp; Again.
Im going broke %26amp; this car is my livelyhood. I cant go to work if I dont have it. I cant get my son if I dont have it. I cant do ANYTHING!!!
AHHHHHH!!!
This has all been happening since April.
Please.. Would someone help me.
With anything.Does anybody else have any problems with a 05 Dodge Stratus?
Take it to another dealer and have them check it over. Early 2.4L Stratus's did have a lot of cracked exhaust manifolds, but not so much any longer.
I'd also question why so many injectors. While they can give problems, it sounds like your dealer isn't properly addresing the problem. If less than 36,000 miles and two years old, you shouldn't have had to spend anything getting it repaired, unless you modified the engine somehow. Your Stratus has a 3 year 36,000 mile warranty on it, with some emissions components covered up to 8 years/80,000 miles.
Call 1-800-992-1997 to speak with Chrysler Customer Service. (USA only) and explain what is happening.Does anybody else have any problems with a 05 Dodge Stratus?
it sounds like youre getting ripped off because after the spark plugs had to be replaced the second time the technician should have fixed what was causing the injectors to go bad instead of just replacing the again and again. good luck.
I still owe 11 grand on it %26amp; it seems like my car is giving up on me.
I still have a warranty on it but everything that is wrong with it is not covered under it.
I have bad fuel injectors (happens to be covered under warranty but with stipluations)
I have an emissions leak? (was told i have a leak in exhaust manifold)
* about the fuel injectors *
I have had them changed almost 4 times! All of them. I could understand it if it was just a few here %26amp; there, but all of them? 4 times?
This is an 05 Dodge Stratus, people. WTF?
Im ashamed to say how much money I have put into getting this car fixed only to have it broke. Again. %26amp; Again. %26amp; Again.
Im going broke %26amp; this car is my livelyhood. I cant go to work if I dont have it. I cant get my son if I dont have it. I cant do ANYTHING!!!
AHHHHHH!!!
This has all been happening since April.
Please.. Would someone help me.
With anything.Does anybody else have any problems with a 05 Dodge Stratus?
Take it to another dealer and have them check it over. Early 2.4L Stratus's did have a lot of cracked exhaust manifolds, but not so much any longer.
I'd also question why so many injectors. While they can give problems, it sounds like your dealer isn't properly addresing the problem. If less than 36,000 miles and two years old, you shouldn't have had to spend anything getting it repaired, unless you modified the engine somehow. Your Stratus has a 3 year 36,000 mile warranty on it, with some emissions components covered up to 8 years/80,000 miles.
Call 1-800-992-1997 to speak with Chrysler Customer Service. (USA only) and explain what is happening.Does anybody else have any problems with a 05 Dodge Stratus?
it sounds like youre getting ripped off because after the spark plugs had to be replaced the second time the technician should have fixed what was causing the injectors to go bad instead of just replacing the again and again. good luck.
Why will my1993 Cavalier not start.?
I have changed the fuel filter, changed the gas, put in new spark plugs, check the fuel pump to make sure it is working, changed the battery. When I try to start the car it will turn with battery power but will not stay running. I do not smell gas or see any smoke or fumes out the back. It seem as if there is no fuel getting to the engine. When I use starter spray it will start to run for a second and then quit after the spray has been used up. Could it be the fuel injectors? If so do you know where they are located and how costly/difficult they are to replace in a 93 Chevy Cavalier? Thanks.Why will my1993 Cavalier not start.?
if you can make the car run by spraying ether in the throttle body then you have a fuel delivery problem.
So heres what you look at
Fuel pump.fuel pressure regulator.. These are the 2 most common especially the pressure regulator.
Somewhere on this website it will tell you how to get trouble codes from your engine monitor without a scanner:
http://www.articlesbase.com/automotive-aWhy will my1993 Cavalier not start.?
get a new carWhy will my1993 Cavalier not start.?
My answer would definitely be fuel injectors.
But I don't know any of the other details.Why will my1993 Cavalier not start.?
There is probably a problem in the throttle linkage assembly somewhere....like something is not staying open long enough for the fuel to get through.Why will my1993 Cavalier not start.?
CHECK THE FUEL FILTERWhy will my1993 Cavalier not start.?
My car was does that sometimes...did you try hitting the gas before it stalls? It gets mine goingcollege students do wear single middle class parent
if you can make the car run by spraying ether in the throttle body then you have a fuel delivery problem.
So heres what you look at
Fuel pump.fuel pressure regulator.. These are the 2 most common especially the pressure regulator.
Somewhere on this website it will tell you how to get trouble codes from your engine monitor without a scanner:
http://www.articlesbase.com/automotive-aWhy will my1993 Cavalier not start.?
get a new carWhy will my1993 Cavalier not start.?
My answer would definitely be fuel injectors.
But I don't know any of the other details.Why will my1993 Cavalier not start.?
There is probably a problem in the throttle linkage assembly somewhere....like something is not staying open long enough for the fuel to get through.Why will my1993 Cavalier not start.?
CHECK THE FUEL FILTERWhy will my1993 Cavalier not start.?
My car was does that sometimes...did you try hitting the gas before it stalls? It gets mine going
Infiniti FX35 .can you gave me a procedure how to check ( multi cyl.mis firing) code p 0300?
i changed spark plug.injectors.fuel pump .the problem still misfiringInfiniti FX35 .can you gave me a procedure how to check ( multi cyl.mis firing) code p 0300?
If you know what cylinder you are having a misfire in, try changing your spark plug wires between two different cylinders. (i.e. - if cyl 3 is misfiring, swap wires to cyl 3 and 4 AT BOTH SPARK PLUG AND DISTRIBUTOR and see if the misfire follows the wire) If this occurs, you probably have a bad wire.
It might just be a good idea to try replacing the wires anyway, they don't last forever and they're pretty cheap. I hope this helps you out, good luck! :)Infiniti FX35 .can you gave me a procedure how to check ( multi cyl.mis firing) code p 0300?
If everything was done by you, it is time to send it to an experience tech. Find a tech that knows how to use scan tool to monitor misfire count and can read other engine running condition to narrow down problem area.
You did replace spark plugs, injectors, fuel pump but did you check ignition coils? Is there other code stored in memory?
There are few basic things you can check before send it to a shop..
check for air leak.
Overfilled engine oil may cause random misfire.
Dirty fuel filter may cause lower fuel pressure and result in random misfire ....
If you know what cylinder you are having a misfire in, try changing your spark plug wires between two different cylinders. (i.e. - if cyl 3 is misfiring, swap wires to cyl 3 and 4 AT BOTH SPARK PLUG AND DISTRIBUTOR and see if the misfire follows the wire) If this occurs, you probably have a bad wire.
It might just be a good idea to try replacing the wires anyway, they don't last forever and they're pretty cheap. I hope this helps you out, good luck! :)Infiniti FX35 .can you gave me a procedure how to check ( multi cyl.mis firing) code p 0300?
If everything was done by you, it is time to send it to an experience tech. Find a tech that knows how to use scan tool to monitor misfire count and can read other engine running condition to narrow down problem area.
You did replace spark plugs, injectors, fuel pump but did you check ignition coils? Is there other code stored in memory?
There are few basic things you can check before send it to a shop..
check for air leak.
Overfilled engine oil may cause random misfire.
Dirty fuel filter may cause lower fuel pressure and result in random misfire ....
My 2001 Dodge Neon idles rough. How can I fix it?
My 2001 Dodge Neon idles rough in drive and reverse but idles fine in park and neutral. I have changed the spark plugs, air filter, spark plug wires, and the coil pack. I just recently had my transmission serviced (flushed and refilled), my throttle body cleaned, my oil changed, my fuel filter and pump replaced, PCV valve replaced, and my fuel injectors cleaned. I have check for error codes but none were found. I did a cylinder pressure test on each cylinder to check for a cracked head or gasket, all pressures where in the normal range and the same for all four cylinders. There is no signs or sounds of a vacuum hose leak. I have put A LOT of money into solving this problem but none of the above have worked. What else could be causing it to idle rough only in drive and reverse? Oh yeah my idling RPMs are around 600. Way to low!My 2001 Dodge Neon idles rough. How can I fix it?
the only thing you didn't mention that you haven't checked the timing on it ,if it gets one notch out of time that will cause the problem your having,you may also want to check and make sure the converter isn't causing this too happen,if you have no trouble codes coming from the computer this doesn't still mean that its not a bad sensor,sometimes a bad tps sensor or one that isn't registering right will cause this to happen,you also nee to run a fuel pump pressure test on it to verify the exact amount of fuel pressure its running when it does like that,it may be the pump causing this too happen also,good luck.My 2001 Dodge Neon idles rough. How can I fix it?
thanks,hope you find whats causing it to do that,good luck.
trade it in for a civicMy 2001 Dodge Neon idles rough. How can I fix it?
Check for a vacuum leak at the brake booster.
the only thing you didn't mention that you haven't checked the timing on it ,if it gets one notch out of time that will cause the problem your having,you may also want to check and make sure the converter isn't causing this too happen,if you have no trouble codes coming from the computer this doesn't still mean that its not a bad sensor,sometimes a bad tps sensor or one that isn't registering right will cause this to happen,you also nee to run a fuel pump pressure test on it to verify the exact amount of fuel pressure its running when it does like that,it may be the pump causing this too happen also,good luck.My 2001 Dodge Neon idles rough. How can I fix it?
thanks,hope you find whats causing it to do that,good luck.
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My 2001 Dodge Neon idles rough. How can I fix it?trade it in for a civicMy 2001 Dodge Neon idles rough. How can I fix it?
Check for a vacuum leak at the brake booster.
My 2001 Dodge Neon idles rough. How can I fix it (2)?
My 2001 Dodge Neon idles rough in drive and reverse but idles fine in park and neutral. I have changed the spark plugs, air filter, spark plug wires, and the coil pack. I just recently had my transmission serviced (flushed and refilled), my throttle body cleaned, my oil changed, my fuel filter and pump replaced, PCV valve replaced, and my fuel injectors cleaned. I have check for error codes but none were found. I did a cylinder pressure test on each cylinder to check for a cracked head or gasket, all pressures where in the normal range and the same for all four cylinders. There are no signs or sounds of a vacuum hose leak. I have noticed that it only idles rough when the engine is at normal temp (warm). When I first start it and drive a minute or two and stop, it idles normal. I have checked the timing and it seems to be correct. I have also tested the throttle position sensor and it also seems to be working correctly. I have put A LOT of money into solving this problem but none of the above worked. What else could be causing it to idle rough only in drive and reverse? Oh yeah my idling RPMs are around 600. Way to low!My 2001 Dodge Neon idles rough. How can I fix it (2)?
a can of throttle body cleaner sprayed while someone holds your gas pedal down while running.My 2001 Dodge Neon idles rough. How can I fix it (2)?
Did any of the old spark plugs look different then the other 3. If one looked oily it could be missing on that cylinder. If one looked white it could be leaking anti freeze into that cylinder. I have seen new spark plugs be bad. Try pulling one spark plug wire off one at a time to see if it makes the engine run worse. If one of them doesn't make it get any worse, that is the cylinder that it is missing on. Please I hope you are using champion spark plugs.
a can of throttle body cleaner sprayed while someone holds your gas pedal down while running.My 2001 Dodge Neon idles rough. How can I fix it (2)?
Did any of the old spark plugs look different then the other 3. If one looked oily it could be missing on that cylinder. If one looked white it could be leaking anti freeze into that cylinder. I have seen new spark plugs be bad. Try pulling one spark plug wire off one at a time to see if it makes the engine run worse. If one of them doesn't make it get any worse, that is the cylinder that it is missing on. Please I hope you are using champion spark plugs.
STP super concentrated fuel injector cleaner?
Hi, i used to use Gumout庐 Concentrated Fuel Injector Cleaner once every 3000 miles, and i used to add it to a nearly empty tank , then full the tank up with gas. Now i am changing to STP super concentrated fuel injector cleaner(for no reason other than i cannot find gumout in any nearby store) . stp mentions on the back of the bottle to use it in an at least half full tank. now my question: i just add it to the half full tank and drive or i add it to the half full, and then i fill it up with gas and then drive?
why gumout and stp differ in how to add the injector cleaner knowing that both are concenrtrated?
i also read various comments on how to use it (tank half full, add bottle, then refill - or - tank empty, add bottle, the refill. - or - tank half full, add bottle.)
any help is appreciated
thanksSTP super concentrated fuel injector cleaner?
I think it is just the way the instructions are written. In any case the tank should be at least half full when you are done adding cleaner or gasoline.
In the days of carburetors the gas in the tank mixed rather haphazardly as the gas sloshed, but fuel injector systems return a steady stream of gas from the regulator to the tank. Older instructions used the addition of gasoline to mix the cleaner in while new instructions don't care.
My approach (as of a couple years ago) is to stop using fuel injector cleaners in favor of using better gasoline. Top tier brands (see first source) have detergent levels high enough that not only is fuel injector cleaning unnecessary, but carbon deposits in the combustion chamber and on valves is controlled. At least one of the brands (Conoco) is cheaper than many non-top tier brands locally.STP super concentrated fuel injector cleaner?
This tells you all you need to know. %26quot;at least half full tank%26quot; In other words the at least is minimum. Don't put it in a near empty tank and start driving. Have a half tank AT LEAST, but you could have more gas and it will still work. I've had very good results with Lucas Injector Cleaner.STP super concentrated fuel injector cleaner?
Why not use something once ot twice a year that's more concentrated than either of these two products. NAPA and Carquest has 3M Total Fuel System Cleaner which should be mixed with no more than 14 gallons of gas. Dump the 16 oz. plastic bottle of cleaner in the empty fuel tank then fill with no more than 14 gallons of gas. The object here is to rince the concentrate that's coating the gas filler tube into the fuel tank.
The 3M Corporation makes hundreds of household and commercial products. They're not in a habit of distributing anything that doesn't work perfectly.STP super concentrated fuel injector cleaner?
It dosen't matter when you add eather as long as when your done you have at least a half tank of gas.
If you add eather to a 1/4 tank of gas it would be to strong.
Adding every 3,000 miles is good but, every tank would be just a wast of money.STP super concentrated fuel injector cleaner?
Chevron is one of the best cleaners out there. BUT, if you use a %26quot;top tier%26quot; fuel that has enough detergent built into it, you never need to add anything to your tank. BTW, you CAN just add it to your tank since fuel injected cars have @ fuel lines. One goes to the engine, and the other goes to the tank. In other words, the engine uses a small amount of fuel, and the rest is sent back to the tank. THe fuel filter, then, is constantly cleaning the fuel, and the fuel is constantly being mixed. It is NOT like the old carburetor cars at all!!
why gumout and stp differ in how to add the injector cleaner knowing that both are concenrtrated?
i also read various comments on how to use it (tank half full, add bottle, then refill - or - tank empty, add bottle, the refill. - or - tank half full, add bottle.)
any help is appreciated
thanksSTP super concentrated fuel injector cleaner?
I think it is just the way the instructions are written. In any case the tank should be at least half full when you are done adding cleaner or gasoline.
In the days of carburetors the gas in the tank mixed rather haphazardly as the gas sloshed, but fuel injector systems return a steady stream of gas from the regulator to the tank. Older instructions used the addition of gasoline to mix the cleaner in while new instructions don't care.
My approach (as of a couple years ago) is to stop using fuel injector cleaners in favor of using better gasoline. Top tier brands (see first source) have detergent levels high enough that not only is fuel injector cleaning unnecessary, but carbon deposits in the combustion chamber and on valves is controlled. At least one of the brands (Conoco) is cheaper than many non-top tier brands locally.STP super concentrated fuel injector cleaner?
This tells you all you need to know. %26quot;at least half full tank%26quot; In other words the at least is minimum. Don't put it in a near empty tank and start driving. Have a half tank AT LEAST, but you could have more gas and it will still work. I've had very good results with Lucas Injector Cleaner.STP super concentrated fuel injector cleaner?
Why not use something once ot twice a year that's more concentrated than either of these two products. NAPA and Carquest has 3M Total Fuel System Cleaner which should be mixed with no more than 14 gallons of gas. Dump the 16 oz. plastic bottle of cleaner in the empty fuel tank then fill with no more than 14 gallons of gas. The object here is to rince the concentrate that's coating the gas filler tube into the fuel tank.
The 3M Corporation makes hundreds of household and commercial products. They're not in a habit of distributing anything that doesn't work perfectly.STP super concentrated fuel injector cleaner?
It dosen't matter when you add eather as long as when your done you have at least a half tank of gas.
If you add eather to a 1/4 tank of gas it would be to strong.
Adding every 3,000 miles is good but, every tank would be just a wast of money.STP super concentrated fuel injector cleaner?
Chevron is one of the best cleaners out there. BUT, if you use a %26quot;top tier%26quot; fuel that has enough detergent built into it, you never need to add anything to your tank. BTW, you CAN just add it to your tank since fuel injected cars have @ fuel lines. One goes to the engine, and the other goes to the tank. In other words, the engine uses a small amount of fuel, and the rest is sent back to the tank. THe fuel filter, then, is constantly cleaning the fuel, and the fuel is constantly being mixed. It is NOT like the old carburetor cars at all!!
Why does one spark plug keep going bad?
On my 98 f 150 I keep having this problem of a spark plug going bad. It first happened a few years ago and I was told water some how got in and shorted out the spark plug. Well it didn't happen again til last year when I let it sit for about 2 wks. Started running hard, check engine light started flashing. It sounded like crap. I had all 8 spark plugs changed ran some fuel injector cleaner thru it and after a couple days it ran fine. Well Im having the same problem again. I let it sit a week and now its running like crap again. My uncle listened to it today and he said it has a bad spark plug. It starts fine, just runs rough with the check engine light flashing. Spark plugs are cheap but a pain to change. Any ideas would be appreciated.Why does one spark plug keep going bad?
Your Cylinder head gasket may have gone, common fault or it may be one of your valves a wee bit burntWhy does one spark plug keep going bad?
Check the plug color when you pull it out. Should be light tan on electrode. If it is black or oily looking, it may be fouling out due to oil leakage into the cylinder or a bad fuel injector. Check wire to that plug too. It might be bad. Good luck. Dern trucks....Why does one spark plug keep going bad?
If the check engine light is blinking it means that this is a catalytic damaging misifre, plugs are cheap cats are NOT. My advice would be to get this to a garage as soon as possible, find the color of the spark plug when you pull it out and google it, you will get a basic answer of what is on the plug and why.difficulty e mailing support low cost web hosting
Your Cylinder head gasket may have gone, common fault or it may be one of your valves a wee bit burntWhy does one spark plug keep going bad?
Check the plug color when you pull it out. Should be light tan on electrode. If it is black or oily looking, it may be fouling out due to oil leakage into the cylinder or a bad fuel injector. Check wire to that plug too. It might be bad. Good luck. Dern trucks....Why does one spark plug keep going bad?
If the check engine light is blinking it means that this is a catalytic damaging misifre, plugs are cheap cats are NOT. My advice would be to get this to a garage as soon as possible, find the color of the spark plug when you pull it out and google it, you will get a basic answer of what is on the plug and why.
How do you fix a car from stalling?
Yes I recently had my 1999 grand am gt 3.4l with ram air serviced. I had the oil changed,a new fuel filter and had them put the car on the diagnostics computer. I also put in stp concentrated fuel injector cleaner 2 days ago. They said the pcv valve was ok and that everything else checked out ok.The car has 149,000 kms on it.But it still stalls especially when you first start it up from cold. It also does it at other times too,even when its been running for awhile.I use regular unleaded gas but it even did it with the premium too.Could it be a bad injector?Its really frustrating.Also maybe I didnt wait long enough for the stp cleaner to work.Is there also a better kind of cleaner than what I bought or is there another problem going on here?How do you fix a car from stalling?
have the Idle air control module checked, thats what happened to mine.How do you fix a car from stalling?
Sorry, nothing in a can will fix your problem. Did they check the temp. sensor. I would take it to a reputable repair facility that does diagnostic work and plan on leaving the car for a couple days so they can try to duplicate the problem, especially the one when it first starts up.
have the Idle air control module checked, thats what happened to mine.How do you fix a car from stalling?
Sorry, nothing in a can will fix your problem. Did they check the temp. sensor. I would take it to a reputable repair facility that does diagnostic work and plan on leaving the car for a couple days so they can try to duplicate the problem, especially the one when it first starts up.
What is a manifold and a fuel injector and what do they do?
I have 1991 Nissan maxima and the mechanic said these need to be changed. How much does it cost and how long can I run on the car before it completely breaks down (at this point it is just shaking and making a 'tractor'-like sound).What is a manifold and a fuel injector and what do they do?
There are actually two manifolds on your engine, an intake and an exhaust manifold. Given the additional details you offered, I will assume you are speaking about the intake manifold.
Your intake manifold is a collection of pipes that carry the fuel and air mixture into each of the six cylinders on your Maxima. (Whereas the exhaust manifold is also a series of pipe that carry exhaust from each cylinder into the exhaust system.)
The fuel injection system is an electronically controlled apparatus for mixing fuel and air in the proper proportions for combustion and then spraying it into a fine mist to improve the quality of the burn in each cylinder when a spark is supplied by your spark plug.
This fuel/air mix then is distributed to each cylinder by the intake manifold.
That said, it is fairly uncommon for an intake manifold on a Maxima to fail. As most of them are metal and often even cast metal, the only failures come from being cracked or warped from a severe overheating. I would be rather suspicious of that being the case on your car.
Fuel injectors on the other hand often do get clogged up but can be cleaned with a fuel injection cleaner such as one of the BG products. When dirty they do not spray the fine mist necessary for good combustion and the car will run rough. Sometimes injectors also fail, but I would try a thorough cleaning before I drew that conclusion.What is a manifold and a fuel injector and what do they do?
The intake manifold is what allows the air to flow into the cylinders, and the fuel injectors are what sprays fuel into the intake just above the intake valves. There is an exhaust manifold too, it routes the spent exhaust to the exhaust pipe from the cylinders.
There are actually two manifolds on your engine, an intake and an exhaust manifold. Given the additional details you offered, I will assume you are speaking about the intake manifold.
Your intake manifold is a collection of pipes that carry the fuel and air mixture into each of the six cylinders on your Maxima. (Whereas the exhaust manifold is also a series of pipe that carry exhaust from each cylinder into the exhaust system.)
The fuel injection system is an electronically controlled apparatus for mixing fuel and air in the proper proportions for combustion and then spraying it into a fine mist to improve the quality of the burn in each cylinder when a spark is supplied by your spark plug.
This fuel/air mix then is distributed to each cylinder by the intake manifold.
That said, it is fairly uncommon for an intake manifold on a Maxima to fail. As most of them are metal and often even cast metal, the only failures come from being cracked or warped from a severe overheating. I would be rather suspicious of that being the case on your car.
Fuel injectors on the other hand often do get clogged up but can be cleaned with a fuel injection cleaner such as one of the BG products. When dirty they do not spray the fine mist necessary for good combustion and the car will run rough. Sometimes injectors also fail, but I would try a thorough cleaning before I drew that conclusion.What is a manifold and a fuel injector and what do they do?
The intake manifold is what allows the air to flow into the cylinders, and the fuel injectors are what sprays fuel into the intake just above the intake valves. There is an exhaust manifold too, it routes the spent exhaust to the exhaust pipe from the cylinders.
How often should I add fuel injector cleaner to my car and is it really that necessary?
I have a 2004 Huyndai Elantra with 20,000 miles on it. Some people tell me to add it once a month, others tell me every time I get my oil changed (as a reminder) and some say every 20,000 miles or so. Someone also told me that it's over rated. Who is right?How often should I add fuel injector cleaner to my car and is it really that necessary?
I have spoken to sales reps from some of the bigger auto chemical companies, and the direct answer from them is that any fuel injector cleaner that you add to your tank is a good way for them to take 5 bucks from you. As others have pointed out already, fuel that you buy already has detergents in it, so it will not clog up your fuel system. What causes deposits is OLD fuel. If your car is not sitting for long periods (say 6 months or so) with fuel in the tank, lines, rail, and injectors, you shouldn't have any problems. If you want to be good to your car, change your fuel FILTER regularly, i.e. every 12-15,000 miles.How often should I add fuel injector cleaner to my car and is it really that necessary?
Waste of $$How often should I add fuel injector cleaner to my car and is it really that necessary?
I have a Chevy Malibu and I have been told numerous times to add it when I change my oil.
I use Gum-Out. It's in a yellow bottle.How often should I add fuel injector cleaner to my car and is it really that necessary?
If you buy good gas, you should never need it. Texaco, Mobile, Chevron or Quick Trip should all have cleaners in the gas. Also, never add anything to the gas or oil ... it can do very little good and can cause big trouble. You could use a gas dryer only to get water out of the gas, but nothing else. Change oil every 5000 miles on the speed odometer.How often should I add fuel injector cleaner to my car and is it really that necessary?
I add Berrymans 0116 to my tank every 8000 miles.
My car hasn't had a fuel issue in all of its 135000 miles.How often should I add fuel injector cleaner to my car and is it really that necessary?
I have a GMC pickup (EFI) with 245,000 miles that has NEVER seen a bottle of cleaner. ARCO gas almost exclusively.
If you ask me, I say use it once every 50,000 miles.
It is not designed to replace tune ups.How often should I add fuel injector cleaner to my car and is it really that necessary?
It all depends on the gas that you use. Cheaper gas is not going to have the cleaners in it, the more expensive gas does. It is not recommended for constant use, if you do use it. Think of it this way, if you are going to use it, do it the same time you get your oil changed.How often should I add fuel injector cleaner to my car and is it really that necessary?
you don't need it just use good gasHow often should I add fuel injector cleaner to my car and is it really that necessary?
I have a 1993 dodge Dakota/169,000+, even though I have added Injector cleaners in the pass, according to the owners manual, it is recondmend that nothing is to be added to the gas, I know that when I did, my MPG dropped. I plan on just doing good maintenance on the engine and Pray the I get over 200,000 miles on it.
I have spoken to sales reps from some of the bigger auto chemical companies, and the direct answer from them is that any fuel injector cleaner that you add to your tank is a good way for them to take 5 bucks from you. As others have pointed out already, fuel that you buy already has detergents in it, so it will not clog up your fuel system. What causes deposits is OLD fuel. If your car is not sitting for long periods (say 6 months or so) with fuel in the tank, lines, rail, and injectors, you shouldn't have any problems. If you want to be good to your car, change your fuel FILTER regularly, i.e. every 12-15,000 miles.How often should I add fuel injector cleaner to my car and is it really that necessary?
Waste of $$How often should I add fuel injector cleaner to my car and is it really that necessary?
I have a Chevy Malibu and I have been told numerous times to add it when I change my oil.
I use Gum-Out. It's in a yellow bottle.How often should I add fuel injector cleaner to my car and is it really that necessary?
If you buy good gas, you should never need it. Texaco, Mobile, Chevron or Quick Trip should all have cleaners in the gas. Also, never add anything to the gas or oil ... it can do very little good and can cause big trouble. You could use a gas dryer only to get water out of the gas, but nothing else. Change oil every 5000 miles on the speed odometer.How often should I add fuel injector cleaner to my car and is it really that necessary?
I add Berrymans 0116 to my tank every 8000 miles.
My car hasn't had a fuel issue in all of its 135000 miles.How often should I add fuel injector cleaner to my car and is it really that necessary?
I have a GMC pickup (EFI) with 245,000 miles that has NEVER seen a bottle of cleaner. ARCO gas almost exclusively.
If you ask me, I say use it once every 50,000 miles.
It is not designed to replace tune ups.How often should I add fuel injector cleaner to my car and is it really that necessary?
It all depends on the gas that you use. Cheaper gas is not going to have the cleaners in it, the more expensive gas does. It is not recommended for constant use, if you do use it. Think of it this way, if you are going to use it, do it the same time you get your oil changed.How often should I add fuel injector cleaner to my car and is it really that necessary?
you don't need it just use good gasHow often should I add fuel injector cleaner to my car and is it really that necessary?
I have a 1993 dodge Dakota/169,000+, even though I have added Injector cleaners in the pass, according to the owners manual, it is recondmend that nothing is to be added to the gas, I know that when I did, my MPG dropped. I plan on just doing good maintenance on the engine and Pray the I get over 200,000 miles on it.
Fuel Systems Help is Needed?
In a charcoal canister fuel-venting system, which of the following components is used to ensure that only vapor and not liquid fuel reaches the canister?
A. A liquid/vapor separator
B. A canister filter
C. A purge line
D. A vapor lock
2. In an automotive engine, the condition in which the air-and-fuel mixture in the combustion chamber ignites before the piston is in its proper position is called
A. detonation.
B. normal combustion.
C. vaporization.
D. preignition.
3. An air-to-fuel ratio of 8 to 1 is considered to be a(n)
A. simple mixture.
B. rich mixture.
C. ideal mixture.
D. lean mixture.
4. In an automobile that contains a mechanical fuel pump, the pump is usually driven by
A. the crankshaft.
B. a belt-drive system.
C. the camshaft.
D. an electric motor.
5. Which of the following devices is attached to the float arm of a fuel sender in order to vary the current flow sent to the fuel gage?
A. A pressure regulator
B. A rheostat
C. A solenoid
D. A diaphragm
6. In a timed fuel-injection system, the air-to-fuel ratio is usually controlled by
A. varying the amount of time the fuel pump is allowed to operate.
B. varying the fuel pressure.
C. changing the size of the injectors.
D. varying the amount of time the injectors are open and closed.
7. In an automotive engine, normal combustion usually begins at a point just before the
A. piston reaches TDC.
B. spark plug fires.
C. piston reaches BDC.
D. air-and-fuel mixture ignites on its own.
8. The breaking of fuel into small particles is called
A. vaporization.
B. atomization.
C. condensation.
D. enrichment.
9. In most automotive engines, the device used to control the amount of air that enters the engine is the
A. air cleaner.
B. pressure regulator.
C. rheostat.
D. throttle plate.
10. The measure of how well a gasoline can resist detonation and preignition is called its
A. RFG.
B. air-to-fuel ratio.
C. oxygenate.
D. octane.
11. An automotive fuel-injection system in which fuel always flows from the injectors is called a
A. carburetor system.
B. continuous-flow system.
C. timed system.
D. PCV system.
12. Carburetor systems usually operate with fuel pressures of between
A. 0 and 1 psi.
B. 2 and 8 psi.
C. 10 and 20 psi.
D. 20 and 60 psi.
13. In an automobile, the purpose of a PCV system is to
A. return unused fuel to the fuel tank.
B. cool the combustion chamber temperature.
C. recirculate the crankcase gases back to the combustion chamber.
D. control the amount of air that enters the cylinder.
14. The type of fuel-injection system that contains a separate injector for each of the engine's cylinders is called a
A. multiport injection system.
B. central-body injection system.
C. throttle-body injection system.
D. carburetor system.
15. Most mechanical fuel pumps are the ______ type.
A. rotary
B. vacuum
C. diaphragm
D. solenoid
16. An automotive technician is testing the operation of a fuel gage. The technician observes that when the fuel-gage wire is grounded, the gage reads empty, and when the wire is unhooked, the gage reads full. This indicates that the problem is probably a defective
A. wire connecting the gage to the sender.
B. fuel-gage sending unit.
C. fuel gage.
D. fuel pump.
17. In an automotive engine, the condition in which the air-and-fuel mixture ignites in more than one area of the combustion chamber at the same time is called
A. detonation.
B. preignition.
C. normal combustion.
D. vaporization.
18. The ideal air-to-fuel ratio for a typical automotive engine is considered to be about
A. 8.5 to 1.
B. 10.7 to 1.
C. 14.7 to 1.
D. 12.4 to 1.
19. Inside a fuel tank, the component that allows fuel to be drawn from near the bottom of the fuel tank is the
A. rheostat.
B. filler pipe.
C. purge line.
D. pickup tube.
20. In an automobile, the purpose of an EGR system is to
A. return unused fuel to the fuel tank.
B. cool the combustion chamber temperature.
C. recirculate the crankcase gases back to the combustion chamber.
D. control the amount of air that enters the cylinder.Fuel Systems Help is Needed?
1 B
2 D
3 A OR C ??
4 A
5 D
6 ??
7 A
8 B
9 D
10 D
11 C ??
12 ??
13 C
14 A
15 B ??
16 C
17 A
18 B
19 D
20 C
you can send the check for the homework answers to ........Fuel Systems Help is Needed?
If you read the book, and study, you will learn these things for yourself and not need to cheat by getting the answers from someone else.Fuel Systems Help is Needed?
1 C
2 D
3 B
4 Trick Question, it's due to pressure differential i.e. diaphram pump
5 B
6 D
7 A
8 B
9 D but you should say the entire throttle body assembly as emission equipped vehicles using an EGR valve recirculate gasses back into the intake beyond what's taken in through the throttle body, also can't forget about crank case gases through the PCV...
10 D
11 B Also known as a return vs non-return system i.e. fuel injected are return, most carb setups are returnless
12 B Again, misleading question but if we're ignoring forced induction vehicles (draw through carb) but
13 C
14 A
15 C
16 C
17 A
18 D
19 D
20 B for emissions sake!Fuel Systems Help is Needed?
REad the book... You might be working on my car someday.
A. A liquid/vapor separator
B. A canister filter
C. A purge line
D. A vapor lock
2. In an automotive engine, the condition in which the air-and-fuel mixture in the combustion chamber ignites before the piston is in its proper position is called
A. detonation.
B. normal combustion.
C. vaporization.
D. preignition.
3. An air-to-fuel ratio of 8 to 1 is considered to be a(n)
A. simple mixture.
B. rich mixture.
C. ideal mixture.
D. lean mixture.
4. In an automobile that contains a mechanical fuel pump, the pump is usually driven by
A. the crankshaft.
B. a belt-drive system.
C. the camshaft.
D. an electric motor.
5. Which of the following devices is attached to the float arm of a fuel sender in order to vary the current flow sent to the fuel gage?
A. A pressure regulator
B. A rheostat
C. A solenoid
D. A diaphragm
6. In a timed fuel-injection system, the air-to-fuel ratio is usually controlled by
A. varying the amount of time the fuel pump is allowed to operate.
B. varying the fuel pressure.
C. changing the size of the injectors.
D. varying the amount of time the injectors are open and closed.
7. In an automotive engine, normal combustion usually begins at a point just before the
A. piston reaches TDC.
B. spark plug fires.
C. piston reaches BDC.
D. air-and-fuel mixture ignites on its own.
8. The breaking of fuel into small particles is called
A. vaporization.
B. atomization.
C. condensation.
D. enrichment.
9. In most automotive engines, the device used to control the amount of air that enters the engine is the
A. air cleaner.
B. pressure regulator.
C. rheostat.
D. throttle plate.
10. The measure of how well a gasoline can resist detonation and preignition is called its
A. RFG.
B. air-to-fuel ratio.
C. oxygenate.
D. octane.
11. An automotive fuel-injection system in which fuel always flows from the injectors is called a
A. carburetor system.
B. continuous-flow system.
C. timed system.
D. PCV system.
12. Carburetor systems usually operate with fuel pressures of between
A. 0 and 1 psi.
B. 2 and 8 psi.
C. 10 and 20 psi.
D. 20 and 60 psi.
13. In an automobile, the purpose of a PCV system is to
A. return unused fuel to the fuel tank.
B. cool the combustion chamber temperature.
C. recirculate the crankcase gases back to the combustion chamber.
D. control the amount of air that enters the cylinder.
14. The type of fuel-injection system that contains a separate injector for each of the engine's cylinders is called a
A. multiport injection system.
B. central-body injection system.
C. throttle-body injection system.
D. carburetor system.
15. Most mechanical fuel pumps are the ______ type.
A. rotary
B. vacuum
C. diaphragm
D. solenoid
16. An automotive technician is testing the operation of a fuel gage. The technician observes that when the fuel-gage wire is grounded, the gage reads empty, and when the wire is unhooked, the gage reads full. This indicates that the problem is probably a defective
A. wire connecting the gage to the sender.
B. fuel-gage sending unit.
C. fuel gage.
D. fuel pump.
17. In an automotive engine, the condition in which the air-and-fuel mixture ignites in more than one area of the combustion chamber at the same time is called
A. detonation.
B. preignition.
C. normal combustion.
D. vaporization.
18. The ideal air-to-fuel ratio for a typical automotive engine is considered to be about
A. 8.5 to 1.
B. 10.7 to 1.
C. 14.7 to 1.
D. 12.4 to 1.
19. Inside a fuel tank, the component that allows fuel to be drawn from near the bottom of the fuel tank is the
A. rheostat.
B. filler pipe.
C. purge line.
D. pickup tube.
20. In an automobile, the purpose of an EGR system is to
A. return unused fuel to the fuel tank.
B. cool the combustion chamber temperature.
C. recirculate the crankcase gases back to the combustion chamber.
D. control the amount of air that enters the cylinder.Fuel Systems Help is Needed?
1 B
2 D
3 A OR C ??
4 A
5 D
6 ??
7 A
8 B
9 D
10 D
11 C ??
12 ??
13 C
14 A
15 B ??
16 C
17 A
18 B
19 D
20 C
you can send the check for the homework answers to ........Fuel Systems Help is Needed?
If you read the book, and study, you will learn these things for yourself and not need to cheat by getting the answers from someone else.Fuel Systems Help is Needed?
1 C
2 D
3 B
4 Trick Question, it's due to pressure differential i.e. diaphram pump
5 B
6 D
7 A
8 B
9 D but you should say the entire throttle body assembly as emission equipped vehicles using an EGR valve recirculate gasses back into the intake beyond what's taken in through the throttle body, also can't forget about crank case gases through the PCV...
10 D
11 B Also known as a return vs non-return system i.e. fuel injected are return, most carb setups are returnless
12 B Again, misleading question but if we're ignoring forced induction vehicles (draw through carb) but
13 C
14 A
15 C
16 C
17 A
18 D
19 D
20 B for emissions sake!Fuel Systems Help is Needed?
REad the book... You might be working on my car someday.
1996 jeep grand cherokee wont start, new plugs, wires, dist, cap, rotar button, coil, crankshaft sensor,pickuo
I am in desperate need of getting my jeep started. this is the rundown, I put on new plugs, wires, dist cap and rotar button, pickup coil sensor (same as camshaft sensor), and crankshaft sensor after I did the I did the key on off thing, 3 times, and found i had a code 11, which is a camshaft/crankshaft sensor problem. After I put the new sensors in the codes showed no problems, however still wont start, turns over, and tries to run but then dies. Checked fuses, have gas to the injectors, dont know how much pressure tho. Havent changed fuel filter yet, but dont think that is prob. How could all go bad at once? Havent put diagnostic computer on it yet as am trying to save money to do it myself. called many mechanics and have done all they said to do, including trying to clear the antitheft device thing, by locking and unlocking the passenger door with the key. Ii am getting fire to the plugs but possibly not enuff gas. Also added new gas and drygas additive, PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!1996 jeep grand cherokee wont start, new plugs, wires, dist, cap, rotar button, coil, crankshaft sensor,pickuo
You might want to check the fuel pressure, You can do this by disconnecting the fuel filter inlet line (from the tank.), and the end of the line into a quart container. The fuel pump should fill the container up within 30 seconds. If it does that, it might be the fuel pressure regulator. Chrysler also had a problem with lifters. Make sure your oil level is full. If the lifter isn't pumping up you wont beable to start the engine.1996 jeep grand cherokee wont start, new plugs, wires, dist, cap, rotar button, coil, crankshaft sensor,pickuo
sounds like a fuel pump1996 jeep grand cherokee wont start, new plugs, wires, dist, cap, rotar button, coil, crankshaft sensor,pickuo
go ahead change that fuel filter it would't hurt and the jeep will thank you later. But it might be the Throttle body. I had one go bad on me and everyone told me that it was the fuel pump. I listened to them and then I went to my mechanic and he told me that the last fuel pump was fine it was the throttle body.
SAVE the time and take it to your Mechanic.1996 jeep grand cherokee wont start, new plugs, wires, dist, cap, rotar button, coil, crankshaft sensor,pickuo
try pulling off ur battery cable for a minute or so to reset ur computer1996 jeep grand cherokee wont start, new plugs, wires, dist, cap, rotar button, coil, crankshaft sensor,pickuo
I would say fuel pump. That falls into the years that Chrysler had a lot of problems with fuel pumps. I had a 1998 Grand Cherokee that had the same problem. If you replace the pump, find a Carquest and buy an Airtex brand pump. I've had no problems since I replaced mine.1996 jeep grand cherokee wont start, new plugs, wires, dist, cap, rotar button, coil, crankshaft sensor,pickuo
Check fuel psi, Id say fuel pump is gone out. The code you got will show up if the engine is not running.family cell phone plan as level psychology podcats
You might want to check the fuel pressure, You can do this by disconnecting the fuel filter inlet line (from the tank.), and the end of the line into a quart container. The fuel pump should fill the container up within 30 seconds. If it does that, it might be the fuel pressure regulator. Chrysler also had a problem with lifters. Make sure your oil level is full. If the lifter isn't pumping up you wont beable to start the engine.1996 jeep grand cherokee wont start, new plugs, wires, dist, cap, rotar button, coil, crankshaft sensor,pickuo
sounds like a fuel pump1996 jeep grand cherokee wont start, new plugs, wires, dist, cap, rotar button, coil, crankshaft sensor,pickuo
go ahead change that fuel filter it would't hurt and the jeep will thank you later. But it might be the Throttle body. I had one go bad on me and everyone told me that it was the fuel pump. I listened to them and then I went to my mechanic and he told me that the last fuel pump was fine it was the throttle body.
SAVE the time and take it to your Mechanic.1996 jeep grand cherokee wont start, new plugs, wires, dist, cap, rotar button, coil, crankshaft sensor,pickuo
try pulling off ur battery cable for a minute or so to reset ur computer1996 jeep grand cherokee wont start, new plugs, wires, dist, cap, rotar button, coil, crankshaft sensor,pickuo
I would say fuel pump. That falls into the years that Chrysler had a lot of problems with fuel pumps. I had a 1998 Grand Cherokee that had the same problem. If you replace the pump, find a Carquest and buy an Airtex brand pump. I've had no problems since I replaced mine.1996 jeep grand cherokee wont start, new plugs, wires, dist, cap, rotar button, coil, crankshaft sensor,pickuo
Check fuel psi, Id say fuel pump is gone out. The code you got will show up if the engine is not running.
How much is a full fuel convertor kit for a pont. Firebird?
Ok I have a v8 and its tooo much gas. My dad said I can get a fuel convertion or fuel injector for my car. He said I need to replace the convetor idk. But how much would it cost to get it done. I want to change my engine to like a v4 or something to save gasHow much is a full fuel convertor kit for a pont. Firebird?
Yeah, sell it and buy something you can afford. Think how much cheaper it will be on gas, taxes, insurance and maintenance!!How much is a full fuel convertor kit for a pont. Firebird?
What the heck is he talking about? I have no idea what he's talking about, he probably doesn't either.
Also, there's no such thing as a V4...and if you're that worried about gas then sell the car before putting a SMALLER engine into a muscle car.
Seriously, if you're that worried about gas sell it and buy a Honda or Toyota or a more economical GM vehicle.
Yeah, sell it and buy something you can afford. Think how much cheaper it will be on gas, taxes, insurance and maintenance!!How much is a full fuel convertor kit for a pont. Firebird?
What the heck is he talking about? I have no idea what he's talking about, he probably doesn't either.
Also, there's no such thing as a V4...and if you're that worried about gas then sell the car before putting a SMALLER engine into a muscle car.
Seriously, if you're that worried about gas sell it and buy a Honda or Toyota or a more economical GM vehicle.
Clogged fuel injectors?
I have a 2002 audi a4. 2 fridays ago the car over heated on rt 46 and smelt like it was on fire. Funny part is the car was FULLY serviced 3 days earlier. cost me 1000 dollars even. I was so excited it felt like a new car. Then im driving and the thing basically blows up! Monday morning they tell me that the water pump went. So they changed the water pump and then timing belt as well as some other belt ( i dont remember the name) Get the car back and it starts sooo much better quieter but im driving it and something doesn't feel right. i have to press the gas all the way to the floor for the car to go somewhere. Same Day my check engine light goes on. Then starts flashing and i remember someone telling me once if your check engine light flashes u need to stop the car and turn it off...so i did and read my manual it says that my cat convertor is broken! Jeeze i need all these problems i bring it sunday night to get fixed they tell me now that its my fuel injectors and some sensors and a coil thats broken. Apprantly nothing thats gonna kill the car. How long does this take?Clogged fuel injectors?
until your wallet is empty. find another mechanic fast. either that, or get a different car. It sounds like they are taking you for a ride.Clogged fuel injectors?
sounds to me like you need to dump that car and get another 1. pretty soon you will have enough money in that 1 that you can buy another car.
until your wallet is empty. find another mechanic fast. either that, or get a different car. It sounds like they are taking you for a ride.Clogged fuel injectors?
sounds to me like you need to dump that car and get another 1. pretty soon you will have enough money in that 1 that you can buy another car.
I need to clean the fuel injectors on a 2000 Nissan Frontier. Can someone tell a novice how to do this?
Is there a good product that I can add to the gas that will do the trick. I've already used the inexpensive $2 or $3 dollar STP type brands, but they have not solved the problem. I've been using these additives for about the last 6 months, and they have kept the problem from getting worse, perhaps made it a bit better, but have certainly not solved the problem. I know that Walmart is supposed to offer some service for only $15.00 or so that is done when they change your oil but I'm not to sure if what they offer is even effective, and I would rather take care of it myself. Any insight that you may provide will be greatly appreciated. Thankyou!I need to clean the fuel injectors on a 2000 Nissan Frontier. Can someone tell a novice how to do this?
at the smog shop, i used to recommend the STP complete fuel system cleaner..the one in the grey bottle. it seemed to work best of the %26quot;tank additive%26quot; cleaners. at the toyota dealership, we use a 3 part cleaner. 1 goes into the tank, we remove the intake and hand clean the throttle body, and then we disconnect the fuel pump, and run a bottle of cleaner directly through the injectors. its about 129 bucks, but if you are dumping a 5 dollar bottle of cleaner a week.....its your call. what exactly makes you believe the injectors are that dirty?I need to clean the fuel injectors on a 2000 Nissan Frontier. Can someone tell a novice how to do this?
pour a can seafoam in your gas tankI need to clean the fuel injectors on a 2000 Nissan Frontier. Can someone tell a novice how to do this?
same thing is happening to me i went to walmart to do it but it came out the same i would just bring it to a mechanic to do a estimate
at the smog shop, i used to recommend the STP complete fuel system cleaner..the one in the grey bottle. it seemed to work best of the %26quot;tank additive%26quot; cleaners. at the toyota dealership, we use a 3 part cleaner. 1 goes into the tank, we remove the intake and hand clean the throttle body, and then we disconnect the fuel pump, and run a bottle of cleaner directly through the injectors. its about 129 bucks, but if you are dumping a 5 dollar bottle of cleaner a week.....its your call. what exactly makes you believe the injectors are that dirty?I need to clean the fuel injectors on a 2000 Nissan Frontier. Can someone tell a novice how to do this?
pour a can seafoam in your gas tankI need to clean the fuel injectors on a 2000 Nissan Frontier. Can someone tell a novice how to do this?
same thing is happening to me i went to walmart to do it but it came out the same i would just bring it to a mechanic to do a estimate
My car is using a lot of gas, not as powerful on highway, and has dirty trans fluid. What is wrong?
Hello. Another question about my 1995 Escort. It is running, but getting poor gas mileage, and I am worried about it. It also is losing power. For some reason, the transmission fluid is dirty. Very weird...
I want to change the FUEL FILTER (I have it I just need someone to put it on,) the FUEL INJECTORS (cant imagine how bad they are,) the SPARK PLUGS (mine are obviously questionable since they were cleaned but are old, I dont trust them,) get my RADIATOR FLUSHED (may be blocked up, time for a real good flushing?) and also get my TRANS SERVICED.
by TRANS SERVICED, I mean the following, after MUCH research:
1) DROP Pan. Old, dirty (purplish, dirty, hard to tell where it is on dipstick, lightly colored, ... its dirty, dont want to overfilll it though) will exit thanks to Gravity.
2) CHANGE or CLEAN the TRANS SCREEN. (I know they have Screens. Cant wait to see how black mine is.)
3) CHANGE the PAN GASKET. (Makes sense.)
4) Change the TRANS FILTER. (I know there is one.)
5) CHANGE my VISIBLE Vacuum Lines. (Makes Sense, I should also get the Vac Lines in the Engine checked too.)
6) FLUSHING NOTHING, put Trans back together (Front Seal looked at, I know it costs a lot to get to) re-fill with 6? Quarts Valvoline MaxLife, and voila, I just Serviced my Trans with appropriate Fluid, giving it a second shot at life, and removing whatever poison is in there now.
I also may have to get the timing of the engine looked at, and after that, it ill be fine.
My car is weird. It hesitates on the highway. -HAS- to downshift to accelerate even moderately, never had to do that before. This Loss of Power is NOT the kind that happens when overheat. Lol, my fan works, my Radiator is full of coolant (I checked that why I want it flushed,) and it appears to be not able to get enough gas... New Air filter is on there.
THe timing of my ignition has also been suspected, and I sort of wonder if the car is running on 3 sylinders? Bad mileage, NO SMOKE, AT ALL. Or smells. Check Engine light is on, and the Battery light came on, but didnt stay on, so its not an Alternator.
I know I have detailed questions, but I wonder if my Game Plan is more or less correct, naturally starting with Fuel Filter and Injector Cleaning.
Is there also a way to remove or check for carbon build-up in the Plenum? Or is that hard to do I have heard of people spraying it with a product that kills the engine and makes the car stall 2 or 3 times and a lot of smoke comes out, but the carbon is gone. What is that product, it may just be that....
Please weigh in here, I do appreciate it, and thank the board for the real answers, not the spam links. Sincerely, Thank You - Joseph
LEVEL 3 NOW!!! :)
PS2: I also do not understand why people say the Transmission never has to be serviced. SOmething has obviously caused my Trans to have dirty fluid, but even in a Trans that has not had an issue as such, an Auto is weaker than a Manual. They get hot, do a lot, and why wouldnt it need a CLEANING even if not a FLUSHING at 150,000 miles.. it makes no sense why people think the Trans does not need maintenance. Maybe that is why they fail. I believe if I get mine within the next 5,000 miles ,although I wanna do it a lot faster than that, I will save it from giving out. Why do people think the Trans is immune when it gets as hot as the engine from all the road heat, even more so it is right over the hot road and other things....My car is using a lot of gas, not as powerful on highway, and has dirty trans fluid. What is wrong?
Hello Joseph,
Wow! You have been doing research. Now lets get to the bottom line.
1)- Codes:
You have a code(s) set and this needs to be checked. The parts house can usually run the codes. You might just have a tune-up problem. Any problem not associated with the possibility of a tune-up needs to be addressed. When a computer reads a sensor that is out of specks it sets a code. There are soft codes and hard codes. When a code is set the computer substitutes a set of variables so the vehicle will continue to function. This is sometimes referred to as cripple in mode. The bottom line is that the vehicle will not perform as designed, and may certainly have a loss of power and get bad fuel mileage. If any codes are possibly the result of needing a tune up do this first, clear the codes, drive, observe, and retest.
2)-Tune up:
a)-plugs, b)-cap, c)-rotor, d)-wires. e)- fuel filter, f)- air filter, and PVC valve. This is part of a normal tune up and corrosion, heat, and normal wear and tear will necessitate this.
Fire needs to get from the coil to the plug in a very specific amount of time. Anything that slows the firing time causes problems. If the fire gets to the top of the cylinder at the right time but the belt has slack, therefore the timing is off, there is still a problem.
A PVC valve stuck open can be a major vaccum leak. Stuck closed and the engine pressure can build up and cause seals and gaskets to blow.
3)- Transmission fluid and filter:
Usually things that get used get dirty. It is a great idea to change the fluid and filter and is a listed maintenance item. I can't imagine anyone saying an auto transmission doesn't need servicing. As transmission bands wear the particles get mixed into the fluid causing the dirty look. The fluid breaks down due to heat and looses viscosity. There is usually a magnet in the bottom of the pan and you may be surprised to find a lot of magnetic gunk there.
4)- Vacuum hoses: Heat breaks down things and hoses crack with age and heat. Vacuum leaks are usually a major cause of minor to major problems. I have seen countless people that drive around with the check engine light on and the cause was found to be a vacuum leak.
5)- Timing belt(timing):
If the timing belt has not been replaced you may get to find about about this in an unplanned repair. A timing belt is made of rubber. An engine compartment has high heat. Belts get old and crack from age and heat. A timing belt has a cover over it so heat buildup can be worse. This is an item that will cause major problems when it breaks. NOTE: I said %26quot;when%26quot; because most people don't worry about it until the day it breaks.
6)- Water pump: DO NOT change the timing belt without replacing the water pump. PLEASE! check into this. The water pump is behind and runs off the timing belt.
7)- Radiator flush: A vehicle that has always had antifreeze ran in it will be in better shape than one with just water sometimes. Tap water is a major long term killer of engines. It is a great idea to flush the engine/radiator, refill with antifreeze, and even add cooling system stop leak.
8) Carbon build up: This can occur in the plenum but worse behind the EGR valve. This can be a problem but will have to be cleaned out manually. Carbon build up behind the valves can be cleaned out with a cleaner or by idling up the engine(mid range)and trickling transmission fluid into the intake. This will cause smoking(temporary), is very effective, but not harmful.
It is also cheaper.
For the record my sister has a 1995 Escort I have been servicing since 1997. It has almost 300,000 miles on it and, other than normal tuneup proceedures, I have replaced the timing belt 3 times, the water pump (which resulted in the 2nd timing belt so experience speaking here), the master cylinder(of course brakes), and a lifter that resulted in the 3rd timing belt.
I feel the car is a phenomenon. Old Escorts were considered throw away vehicles and this one is still running. Hope this helps.My car is using a lot of gas, not as powerful on highway, and has dirty trans fluid. What is wrong?
1 check engine lite means something,,it means scan the computer for codes..
2 before you mess with injectors look/replace plugs and wires
3 your best bet is find a mechanic as it seems you have no clueMy car is using a lot of gas, not as powerful on highway, and has dirty trans fluid. What is wrong?
get a tune up
I want to change the FUEL FILTER (I have it I just need someone to put it on,) the FUEL INJECTORS (cant imagine how bad they are,) the SPARK PLUGS (mine are obviously questionable since they were cleaned but are old, I dont trust them,) get my RADIATOR FLUSHED (may be blocked up, time for a real good flushing?) and also get my TRANS SERVICED.
by TRANS SERVICED, I mean the following, after MUCH research:
1) DROP Pan. Old, dirty (purplish, dirty, hard to tell where it is on dipstick, lightly colored, ... its dirty, dont want to overfilll it though) will exit thanks to Gravity.
2) CHANGE or CLEAN the TRANS SCREEN. (I know they have Screens. Cant wait to see how black mine is.)
3) CHANGE the PAN GASKET. (Makes sense.)
4) Change the TRANS FILTER. (I know there is one.)
5) CHANGE my VISIBLE Vacuum Lines. (Makes Sense, I should also get the Vac Lines in the Engine checked too.)
6) FLUSHING NOTHING, put Trans back together (Front Seal looked at, I know it costs a lot to get to) re-fill with 6? Quarts Valvoline MaxLife, and voila, I just Serviced my Trans with appropriate Fluid, giving it a second shot at life, and removing whatever poison is in there now.
I also may have to get the timing of the engine looked at, and after that, it ill be fine.
My car is weird. It hesitates on the highway. -HAS- to downshift to accelerate even moderately, never had to do that before. This Loss of Power is NOT the kind that happens when overheat. Lol, my fan works, my Radiator is full of coolant (I checked that why I want it flushed,) and it appears to be not able to get enough gas... New Air filter is on there.
THe timing of my ignition has also been suspected, and I sort of wonder if the car is running on 3 sylinders? Bad mileage, NO SMOKE, AT ALL. Or smells. Check Engine light is on, and the Battery light came on, but didnt stay on, so its not an Alternator.
I know I have detailed questions, but I wonder if my Game Plan is more or less correct, naturally starting with Fuel Filter and Injector Cleaning.
Is there also a way to remove or check for carbon build-up in the Plenum? Or is that hard to do I have heard of people spraying it with a product that kills the engine and makes the car stall 2 or 3 times and a lot of smoke comes out, but the carbon is gone. What is that product, it may just be that....
Please weigh in here, I do appreciate it, and thank the board for the real answers, not the spam links. Sincerely, Thank You - Joseph
LEVEL 3 NOW!!! :)
PS2: I also do not understand why people say the Transmission never has to be serviced. SOmething has obviously caused my Trans to have dirty fluid, but even in a Trans that has not had an issue as such, an Auto is weaker than a Manual. They get hot, do a lot, and why wouldnt it need a CLEANING even if not a FLUSHING at 150,000 miles.. it makes no sense why people think the Trans does not need maintenance. Maybe that is why they fail. I believe if I get mine within the next 5,000 miles ,although I wanna do it a lot faster than that, I will save it from giving out. Why do people think the Trans is immune when it gets as hot as the engine from all the road heat, even more so it is right over the hot road and other things....My car is using a lot of gas, not as powerful on highway, and has dirty trans fluid. What is wrong?
Hello Joseph,
Wow! You have been doing research. Now lets get to the bottom line.
1)- Codes:
You have a code(s) set and this needs to be checked. The parts house can usually run the codes. You might just have a tune-up problem. Any problem not associated with the possibility of a tune-up needs to be addressed. When a computer reads a sensor that is out of specks it sets a code. There are soft codes and hard codes. When a code is set the computer substitutes a set of variables so the vehicle will continue to function. This is sometimes referred to as cripple in mode. The bottom line is that the vehicle will not perform as designed, and may certainly have a loss of power and get bad fuel mileage. If any codes are possibly the result of needing a tune up do this first, clear the codes, drive, observe, and retest.
2)-Tune up:
a)-plugs, b)-cap, c)-rotor, d)-wires. e)- fuel filter, f)- air filter, and PVC valve. This is part of a normal tune up and corrosion, heat, and normal wear and tear will necessitate this.
Fire needs to get from the coil to the plug in a very specific amount of time. Anything that slows the firing time causes problems. If the fire gets to the top of the cylinder at the right time but the belt has slack, therefore the timing is off, there is still a problem.
A PVC valve stuck open can be a major vaccum leak. Stuck closed and the engine pressure can build up and cause seals and gaskets to blow.
3)- Transmission fluid and filter:
Usually things that get used get dirty. It is a great idea to change the fluid and filter and is a listed maintenance item. I can't imagine anyone saying an auto transmission doesn't need servicing. As transmission bands wear the particles get mixed into the fluid causing the dirty look. The fluid breaks down due to heat and looses viscosity. There is usually a magnet in the bottom of the pan and you may be surprised to find a lot of magnetic gunk there.
4)- Vacuum hoses: Heat breaks down things and hoses crack with age and heat. Vacuum leaks are usually a major cause of minor to major problems. I have seen countless people that drive around with the check engine light on and the cause was found to be a vacuum leak.
5)- Timing belt(timing):
If the timing belt has not been replaced you may get to find about about this in an unplanned repair. A timing belt is made of rubber. An engine compartment has high heat. Belts get old and crack from age and heat. A timing belt has a cover over it so heat buildup can be worse. This is an item that will cause major problems when it breaks. NOTE: I said %26quot;when%26quot; because most people don't worry about it until the day it breaks.
6)- Water pump: DO NOT change the timing belt without replacing the water pump. PLEASE! check into this. The water pump is behind and runs off the timing belt.
7)- Radiator flush: A vehicle that has always had antifreeze ran in it will be in better shape than one with just water sometimes. Tap water is a major long term killer of engines. It is a great idea to flush the engine/radiator, refill with antifreeze, and even add cooling system stop leak.
8) Carbon build up: This can occur in the plenum but worse behind the EGR valve. This can be a problem but will have to be cleaned out manually. Carbon build up behind the valves can be cleaned out with a cleaner or by idling up the engine(mid range)and trickling transmission fluid into the intake. This will cause smoking(temporary), is very effective, but not harmful.
It is also cheaper.
For the record my sister has a 1995 Escort I have been servicing since 1997. It has almost 300,000 miles on it and, other than normal tuneup proceedures, I have replaced the timing belt 3 times, the water pump (which resulted in the 2nd timing belt so experience speaking here), the master cylinder(of course brakes), and a lifter that resulted in the 3rd timing belt.
I feel the car is a phenomenon. Old Escorts were considered throw away vehicles and this one is still running. Hope this helps.My car is using a lot of gas, not as powerful on highway, and has dirty trans fluid. What is wrong?
1 check engine lite means something,,it means scan the computer for codes..
2 before you mess with injectors look/replace plugs and wires
3 your best bet is find a mechanic as it seems you have no clueMy car is using a lot of gas, not as powerful on highway, and has dirty trans fluid. What is wrong?
get a tune up
Problems getting a 2004 Hyundai Tiburon GT Automatic to start after pumping fuel?
Hello Everyone,
I have this problem with my car, whenever I go to the gas station and pump fuel into my car, my car has got the hardest time starting. When I am done pumping gas I go to turn the car on and it turns off on me. The way I get it started is as I go to turn on the car I have to press down on the gas pedal while in park for about 10 seconds and quickly change into drive to get my car moving.
This problem does not occur again after it has been turned off. My car starts up normally after turning it on and off randomly. I only have the problem where it wont start after pumping fuel.
Another problem with the car is that my RPM's keep on shifting every ones in a while, it constantly moves from 2000 to 1000 to 1500 to 500 RPM while it is in stall over a period of less than 30 seconds.
I have had my car looked at and got my fuel injectors changed and my oxygen sensor cleaned up due to a build up of carbon. Now I am not sure what to do with it. I may believe that it could be a fuel sensor or something.
If anyone out there has got any idea of how to fix this I would be greatly appreciated, I have dealt with this for the past six months and may believe the problem could get worse.
ThanksProblems getting a 2004 Hyundai Tiburon GT Automatic to start after pumping fuel?
i have the same problem. ecxactly the same things happen when i put gas.Problems getting a 2004 Hyundai Tiburon GT Automatic to start after pumping fuel?
Make sure the air filter is clean and you don't have a loose clamp on the air hose at the throttle body, or that the throttle body's not loose.
Can I ask how the O2 sensor was cleaned? If it's not responding properly, just replace it. Cleaning it won't work.
I'm betting it's either a throttle position sensor, or MAP (Manifold Pressure) sensor. Try unplugging the sensors and plugging them back in again. That might clear up a bad connection.
Have you ever had the %26quot;Check Engine%26quot; light come on? I'd get a copy of the factory service manual and follow the troubleshooting procedure.outlook for market 4how to get a boyfriend
I have this problem with my car, whenever I go to the gas station and pump fuel into my car, my car has got the hardest time starting. When I am done pumping gas I go to turn the car on and it turns off on me. The way I get it started is as I go to turn on the car I have to press down on the gas pedal while in park for about 10 seconds and quickly change into drive to get my car moving.
This problem does not occur again after it has been turned off. My car starts up normally after turning it on and off randomly. I only have the problem where it wont start after pumping fuel.
Another problem with the car is that my RPM's keep on shifting every ones in a while, it constantly moves from 2000 to 1000 to 1500 to 500 RPM while it is in stall over a period of less than 30 seconds.
I have had my car looked at and got my fuel injectors changed and my oxygen sensor cleaned up due to a build up of carbon. Now I am not sure what to do with it. I may believe that it could be a fuel sensor or something.
If anyone out there has got any idea of how to fix this I would be greatly appreciated, I have dealt with this for the past six months and may believe the problem could get worse.
ThanksProblems getting a 2004 Hyundai Tiburon GT Automatic to start after pumping fuel?
i have the same problem. ecxactly the same things happen when i put gas.Problems getting a 2004 Hyundai Tiburon GT Automatic to start after pumping fuel?
Make sure the air filter is clean and you don't have a loose clamp on the air hose at the throttle body, or that the throttle body's not loose.
Can I ask how the O2 sensor was cleaned? If it's not responding properly, just replace it. Cleaning it won't work.
I'm betting it's either a throttle position sensor, or MAP (Manifold Pressure) sensor. Try unplugging the sensors and plugging them back in again. That might clear up a bad connection.
Have you ever had the %26quot;Check Engine%26quot; light come on? I'd get a copy of the factory service manual and follow the troubleshooting procedure.
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