I just got a new car yesterday that will replace the one my dad gave me. It was a 1994 oldsmobile 88 that encountered some apparent ignition problem, it drives but stalls randomly on the road no misfire but as if a kill-switch was thrown,but starts right back up again, never over bumps or high speed and mostly during slow right hand turns and gets progressively worse as the fuel tank gets lower. Also the idle bounces sometimes. I have replaced everything in the car except the steering column, ignition, and the transmission. The engine,ecu,fuel injectors, coil pack, all sensors, vacuum hoses, plug wires, plugs, fuel pumps have been replaced.
For now the car has just been sitting and i came across an idea for it. The car reminded me of one of the larger sedan muscle cars, and the gears started to turn in my head. I was thinking that i can use the shell of the car as a project. There is plenty of room under the hood for a carbureted, computer independent, v8 but my question is how do i mount it, the transmission, and the rear differential, do i have to lift the car(raised suspension) to fit the tranny and diff. The floor pan of the car is not flat, it has a rather large channel straight down the middle for the exhaust. the gas tank hangs pretty low where the diff will go but i can fabricate a new one(i'll find a place to put on, mabey it and a tube frame in or below the trunk?) should i use leaf springs for the back, will that make it easier.Will i have problems with the steering column . i can easily mount and make a custom exhaust with headers. I will make other changes to the car to give if a totally unique, new era muscle look( round headlights,custom hood and paint).
Please, if you don't have an answer please don't write telling me i can't, it's not worth it, it won't be road legal. I have made up my mind that this is what i want. Please, just give this problem your best shot, and lets keep this educational.
Like i put in all my questions, do not turn this into a tuner muscle war, it happens in way to many of these.
P.S. I will be using toggle switches not a key for the ignition so don't worry about that. To do this i will probably get a donor car of similar dimensionsOldsmobile 88 project?
If you have looked under the car you will see that the only way that this can be done is to remove the olds body and place it on a chevy truck frame so that everything will fit...the undercarriage of the olds is too flat to do anything with.......
Thursday, September 22, 2011
My 1996 Honda Accord hesitating on accelerations? Vacuum leak vs transmission vs something else?
1996 Honda Accord EX 2.2L SOHC VTEC, 138,000 miles
My car has been hesitating when I press on the gas over the last few days. It gets up to right before the next gear and stays there for 4-5 seconds before it shifts. During these 4-5 seconds I will be almost flooring it but see no change in my RPMs. Its worse with inclines and hills but usually not as bad at high speeds.
The oil is ok, oxygen sensors were changed 3 months ago, and today I just changed out the spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor, PCV valve and hose, and air filter. The old plugs and cap/rotor looked good, but the old PCV valve didnt make a sound when I shook it. Overall, the tune up made it idle smoother but it still hesitates. I know I should have done the fuel filter but its way too hard to get to, and I heard its even an all day thing for pros on this year of Accord.
The people at the auto store recommended I use Seafoam and fuel injector cleaner during the tune up, but I have NOT done it yet, since Im not sure what Im dealing with.
Any way to narrow it down to see if its a vacuum leak or tranny problem or something else? And how much can it typically cost to diagnose and fix either? Im guessing the tranny will probably be way more than the car is actually worth but i dont know about vacuum systems at all. Thanks in advance.My 1996 Honda Accord hesitating on accelerations? Vacuum leak vs transmission vs something else?
sounds like classic pluged catalytic converter. But other possibilities are ignition timing, timming belt maybe jumped, or your carb if it is carbureted, needs to be rebuilt. If it is the Catalytic converter the way to tell is at night look under the car while it is running and well up to normal operating temp if the Cat is plugged it will be golden red. the rest you will need to have diagnose at you local repair shop.
I dont buy that about the fuel filter, get a second opinion but really you woulnt just lose power to a plugged filter you would have dificulty starting and stalling. I hate to say it but you also might only be running on 3 cylinders but that is worst case scenario. you need it diagnosed by someone who knows what they are doing.My 1996 Honda Accord hesitating on accelerations? Vacuum leak vs transmission vs something else?
add the stuff it is cheap enough if vacuum is cosing it, it will be your modulator valve,will be on the trans and have a rubber hose going to it if after you try seafoam and it still acts that way I would say Its a paper rubber kit,which means the trans needs to be rebuiltlock file white hair
My car has been hesitating when I press on the gas over the last few days. It gets up to right before the next gear and stays there for 4-5 seconds before it shifts. During these 4-5 seconds I will be almost flooring it but see no change in my RPMs. Its worse with inclines and hills but usually not as bad at high speeds.
The oil is ok, oxygen sensors were changed 3 months ago, and today I just changed out the spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor, PCV valve and hose, and air filter. The old plugs and cap/rotor looked good, but the old PCV valve didnt make a sound when I shook it. Overall, the tune up made it idle smoother but it still hesitates. I know I should have done the fuel filter but its way too hard to get to, and I heard its even an all day thing for pros on this year of Accord.
The people at the auto store recommended I use Seafoam and fuel injector cleaner during the tune up, but I have NOT done it yet, since Im not sure what Im dealing with.
Any way to narrow it down to see if its a vacuum leak or tranny problem or something else? And how much can it typically cost to diagnose and fix either? Im guessing the tranny will probably be way more than the car is actually worth but i dont know about vacuum systems at all. Thanks in advance.My 1996 Honda Accord hesitating on accelerations? Vacuum leak vs transmission vs something else?
sounds like classic pluged catalytic converter. But other possibilities are ignition timing, timming belt maybe jumped, or your carb if it is carbureted, needs to be rebuilt. If it is the Catalytic converter the way to tell is at night look under the car while it is running and well up to normal operating temp if the Cat is plugged it will be golden red. the rest you will need to have diagnose at you local repair shop.
I dont buy that about the fuel filter, get a second opinion but really you woulnt just lose power to a plugged filter you would have dificulty starting and stalling. I hate to say it but you also might only be running on 3 cylinders but that is worst case scenario. you need it diagnosed by someone who knows what they are doing.My 1996 Honda Accord hesitating on accelerations? Vacuum leak vs transmission vs something else?
add the stuff it is cheap enough if vacuum is cosing it, it will be your modulator valve,will be on the trans and have a rubber hose going to it if after you try seafoam and it still acts that way I would say Its a paper rubber kit,which means the trans needs to be rebuilt
Preventive Maintenance for 2000 Honda Accord?
I have a 2000 Honda Accord 4cyl 4dr sedan and recently, I have been doing some DIY preventive maintenance on my vehicle. I am doing this to get used to my vehicle and because I am also studying to be a mechanic. Anyways, I called a Honda dealer to ask them about whats due for my maintenance and they were helpful enough to enumerate what I need to do. The mileage of the vehicle is 150,000km and so far, I have done the following: oil change, brake fluid flush, auto tranny flush, coolant flush, and new brake job (new pads and rotors). One of the items I haven't done is the fuel injector clean and power steering flush. As much as possible, I don't want any non-honda product on my vehicle system. Can someone help me by giving me the procedures for the fuel injector clean and power steering flush? Does honda have their own fuel injector cleaner fluid or do they use a machine to clean it? The power steering flush, I know they have the fluid but I want to know if they use a machine or just a drain and fill. I ask how much they charge for the two maintenance but they are charging me $250 for both and I don't have that amount of $$$ right now.... Thanks for anybody's reply.Preventive Maintenance for 2000 Honda Accord?
do for you to do it your self if you want to see your mantince secdule check your owners mannual fuel injctor cleaning i hear is very complex i would advise you get a crtifed mechanic do it
love honda's
do for you to do it your self if you want to see your mantince secdule check your owners mannual fuel injctor cleaning i hear is very complex i would advise you get a crtifed mechanic do it
love honda's
How much should I expect Routine maintenance to be?
I have a Town and Country Mini Van and it has 16K miles on it. I called to make our regular oil change appointment at the dealership. We have coupons for the first 12 oil changes. We have always changed the oil every 3 months (I only drive 2K miles or so every 3 months).
So I was told I need to get the 15K mile service done and it will be $257.00. I asked what they did and they said, Engine Oil Flush, Fuel Injector Cleaner and Battery Service. I think this is a little much. What should I expect to pay for this type of service? Our other car we take to a drive through service station (Oil Stop) and I thought they did a Engine oil Flush for a lot less. Is it the same type of service? And what does a Fuel Injector Clean entail?
Any advice is appreciated. Thanks!How much should I expect Routine maintenance to be?
The cost of maintenance will depend heavily on your car, what type of mechanic you choose to take it to (expert in your make/model, dealership, quickie oil change place, etc), and your geographical location. However, what you list really sounds like you're being ripped off. No car that new should need an %26quot;engine oil flush%26quot; or a %26quot;fuel injector cleaner%26quot;, and I'm not even sure what a %26quot;battery service%26quot; is. If you're getting oil changes every 2000 miles, you're probably getting WAY more than you need.
For a car as new as yours, refer to the owner's manual for recommended service intervals. Unless you're driving in extreme conditions (very cold or very hot weather, snow, daily and excessive stop and go traffic, lots of very short trips) following those intervals should keep your car in great shape. Most newer cars I've seen recommend oil changes every 5000 or even 10000 miles. An oil change can cost anywhere from $10-15 to $100 or so if you're using synthetic oil (which lasts longer and is recommended for certain cars). You should also follow your maintenance schedule for the other more %26quot;major%26quot; services, most cars will have those recommended every 12,000 or 20,000 miles. If you're concerned about how much the dealership charges for those (and in most cases, you should be!) get a quote from a local independent mechanic for the same service. You can pick a mechanic that is AAA recommended, an expert in your car make/model, and well recommended by someone you know in your neighborhood (or well reviewed on Yelp) if you're worried about quality. It's important to know that going to a mechanic outside of the dealership during your warranty WILL NOT void your warranty as long as you do have all the recommended maintenance done. Just make sure to keep all your maintenance records in case there are ever any questions.How much should I expect Routine maintenance to be?
yes dealer maintenance is always more expenisive , i think your changing your engine oil far too often any wayHow much should I expect Routine maintenance to be?
Look in your owners manual %26amp; see what it says for a 15K service. No, you shouldn't need an engine flush unless it has 'Break-in'' oil that needs to be flushed. Service departments are generally a rip off %26amp; have been for years. Just take it to your neighborhood garage for service.How much should I expect Routine maintenance to be?
you don't need the engine flushed on your van and a can of injector cleaner at any auto parts store is only around 5 to 10 dollars and i'm sure the battery is fine also. on average batteries last 3 to 5 years or longer.How much should I expect Routine maintenance to be?
first mistake going to dealer for a oil change shouldnt need
Engine Oil Flush in 20 years just needs oil replace on time
Fuel Injector Cleaner cost like 2 bucks at any store you can just pour in yourself once a month or so to keep it clean
and Battery Service can do that anywhere take 5 minute to clean it
most batteries good for 5 yrs just cleaning and topping off
if low anyone can do that
I think this is too much as well
shouldnt be going to dealership who sells car when shops repair them oil change cost like 20 bucks many places
any shop can service a car cheaper easy to make a few phone calls to local shops really it just depend on what your cars needs are at time
but dont use a drive thru oil change they dont check much and many time just a kid or bum off street doing it any shop can do a much better job just call a few shops know what you want done get a price and some of the things you can do yourself
What do to is first stop paying for things one doesnt need learn
not to go to dealership for simple maintenance or service any name brand shop wouldnt cost 50 bucks to have a car service
knowing your cars needs is what keeps them running
knowing about you car easy to learn
wasting money if you just let a shop handle everything they in business to make money some wil do more than it needs such as add a fuel treatment two bucks engine flush waste of money even if its a old car shouldnt need it in 20 years battery service basic just cleaning it checking power of it autozone will test it for free
Fuel Injector Cleaner you can do your selfHow much should I expect Routine maintenance to be?
yes that is a bit much for what they are going to do....
I don't understand the part about %26quot;fuel injector cleaner%26quot;, you usually do this when you suspect that the injectors are clogging up (not at 16K). Are they at least going to change the fuel filter ??? for that kind of money... sheesh......How much should I expect Routine maintenance to be?
you do NOT need an engine oil flush that's a gimmick to get more money out of you an oil change is sufficient. fuel injector cleaner same thing don't need it, do it your shelf.buy the stuff at an auto place and but in your gas tank 3 bucks. batter service is a joke most are sealed and just need to be cleaned ever once in a while.How much should I expect Routine maintenance to be?
First things first - get out the user's manual that came with the car and read very carefully what the 15,000-mile service interval entails. I would be very surprised if the recommended maintenance at this mileage includes anything more than an oil change and possibly, a tire rotation. The rest of the stuff they want to charge you for sounds both excessive and unnecessary.
You should not need the oil %26quot;flush%26quot; at all. That procedure involves forcing a solvent through the lubrication channels with the engine off, to remove sludge. The car is too new for any kind of gunk to be building up in your crankcase; you would do something like this to a much older car Likewise, you should not need to do anything to your fuel injectors unless the car is running rough and your %26quot;check engine%26quot; light is on. Once again, at this mileage, it's very unlikely that there are any problems with your injectors. If you're concerned about them, try running a tank of premium gas through them, or just take the car out for a nice, long drive on the Interstate. And the %26quot;battery service%26quot; they describe probably consists of wiping off the terminals.
Once you know what Chrysler recommends for the car, contact their customer service and complain about the dealer. You can get the oil change and tire rotation done for about 50 bucks somewhere else. As long as you keep records of what was done, and you have met the factory maintenance requirements stated in the owner's manual, your warranty will remain in force.How much should I expect Routine maintenance to be?
The first thing I would do is check your owner檚 manual for the manufacturer檚 15K service recommendations.
It檚 likely that your dealership is offering to provide services above and beyond what the manufacturer recommends at 15K. They often assume most people won檛 bother comparing what the dealer檚 %26quot;15K service%26quot; includes and what檚 actually recommended by the manufacturer.
You can request that the dealer do just what檚 recommended by the manufacturer and see if the price goes down. If it doesn檛, take your business elsewhere.
I recently took my SUV to the dealer for its %26quot;30K service%26quot; based on the recommendations of the manufacturer (mostly just inspections of various items). The total was $175 including labor, supplies, and disposal. I know I probably could save a little taking it to a quick-lube shop, but I prefer being able to take care of warranty items in one stop.
So I was told I need to get the 15K mile service done and it will be $257.00. I asked what they did and they said, Engine Oil Flush, Fuel Injector Cleaner and Battery Service. I think this is a little much. What should I expect to pay for this type of service? Our other car we take to a drive through service station (Oil Stop) and I thought they did a Engine oil Flush for a lot less. Is it the same type of service? And what does a Fuel Injector Clean entail?
Any advice is appreciated. Thanks!How much should I expect Routine maintenance to be?
The cost of maintenance will depend heavily on your car, what type of mechanic you choose to take it to (expert in your make/model, dealership, quickie oil change place, etc), and your geographical location. However, what you list really sounds like you're being ripped off. No car that new should need an %26quot;engine oil flush%26quot; or a %26quot;fuel injector cleaner%26quot;, and I'm not even sure what a %26quot;battery service%26quot; is. If you're getting oil changes every 2000 miles, you're probably getting WAY more than you need.
For a car as new as yours, refer to the owner's manual for recommended service intervals. Unless you're driving in extreme conditions (very cold or very hot weather, snow, daily and excessive stop and go traffic, lots of very short trips) following those intervals should keep your car in great shape. Most newer cars I've seen recommend oil changes every 5000 or even 10000 miles. An oil change can cost anywhere from $10-15 to $100 or so if you're using synthetic oil (which lasts longer and is recommended for certain cars). You should also follow your maintenance schedule for the other more %26quot;major%26quot; services, most cars will have those recommended every 12,000 or 20,000 miles. If you're concerned about how much the dealership charges for those (and in most cases, you should be!) get a quote from a local independent mechanic for the same service. You can pick a mechanic that is AAA recommended, an expert in your car make/model, and well recommended by someone you know in your neighborhood (or well reviewed on Yelp) if you're worried about quality. It's important to know that going to a mechanic outside of the dealership during your warranty WILL NOT void your warranty as long as you do have all the recommended maintenance done. Just make sure to keep all your maintenance records in case there are ever any questions.How much should I expect Routine maintenance to be?
yes dealer maintenance is always more expenisive , i think your changing your engine oil far too often any wayHow much should I expect Routine maintenance to be?
Look in your owners manual %26amp; see what it says for a 15K service. No, you shouldn't need an engine flush unless it has 'Break-in'' oil that needs to be flushed. Service departments are generally a rip off %26amp; have been for years. Just take it to your neighborhood garage for service.How much should I expect Routine maintenance to be?
you don't need the engine flushed on your van and a can of injector cleaner at any auto parts store is only around 5 to 10 dollars and i'm sure the battery is fine also. on average batteries last 3 to 5 years or longer.How much should I expect Routine maintenance to be?
first mistake going to dealer for a oil change shouldnt need
Engine Oil Flush in 20 years just needs oil replace on time
Fuel Injector Cleaner cost like 2 bucks at any store you can just pour in yourself once a month or so to keep it clean
and Battery Service can do that anywhere take 5 minute to clean it
most batteries good for 5 yrs just cleaning and topping off
if low anyone can do that
I think this is too much as well
shouldnt be going to dealership who sells car when shops repair them oil change cost like 20 bucks many places
any shop can service a car cheaper easy to make a few phone calls to local shops really it just depend on what your cars needs are at time
but dont use a drive thru oil change they dont check much and many time just a kid or bum off street doing it any shop can do a much better job just call a few shops know what you want done get a price and some of the things you can do yourself
What do to is first stop paying for things one doesnt need learn
not to go to dealership for simple maintenance or service any name brand shop wouldnt cost 50 bucks to have a car service
knowing your cars needs is what keeps them running
knowing about you car easy to learn
wasting money if you just let a shop handle everything they in business to make money some wil do more than it needs such as add a fuel treatment two bucks engine flush waste of money even if its a old car shouldnt need it in 20 years battery service basic just cleaning it checking power of it autozone will test it for free
Fuel Injector Cleaner you can do your selfHow much should I expect Routine maintenance to be?
yes that is a bit much for what they are going to do....
I don't understand the part about %26quot;fuel injector cleaner%26quot;, you usually do this when you suspect that the injectors are clogging up (not at 16K). Are they at least going to change the fuel filter ??? for that kind of money... sheesh......How much should I expect Routine maintenance to be?
you do NOT need an engine oil flush that's a gimmick to get more money out of you an oil change is sufficient. fuel injector cleaner same thing don't need it, do it your shelf.buy the stuff at an auto place and but in your gas tank 3 bucks. batter service is a joke most are sealed and just need to be cleaned ever once in a while.How much should I expect Routine maintenance to be?
First things first - get out the user's manual that came with the car and read very carefully what the 15,000-mile service interval entails. I would be very surprised if the recommended maintenance at this mileage includes anything more than an oil change and possibly, a tire rotation. The rest of the stuff they want to charge you for sounds both excessive and unnecessary.
You should not need the oil %26quot;flush%26quot; at all. That procedure involves forcing a solvent through the lubrication channels with the engine off, to remove sludge. The car is too new for any kind of gunk to be building up in your crankcase; you would do something like this to a much older car Likewise, you should not need to do anything to your fuel injectors unless the car is running rough and your %26quot;check engine%26quot; light is on. Once again, at this mileage, it's very unlikely that there are any problems with your injectors. If you're concerned about them, try running a tank of premium gas through them, or just take the car out for a nice, long drive on the Interstate. And the %26quot;battery service%26quot; they describe probably consists of wiping off the terminals.
Once you know what Chrysler recommends for the car, contact their customer service and complain about the dealer. You can get the oil change and tire rotation done for about 50 bucks somewhere else. As long as you keep records of what was done, and you have met the factory maintenance requirements stated in the owner's manual, your warranty will remain in force.How much should I expect Routine maintenance to be?
The first thing I would do is check your owner檚 manual for the manufacturer檚 15K service recommendations.
It檚 likely that your dealership is offering to provide services above and beyond what the manufacturer recommends at 15K. They often assume most people won檛 bother comparing what the dealer檚 %26quot;15K service%26quot; includes and what檚 actually recommended by the manufacturer.
You can request that the dealer do just what檚 recommended by the manufacturer and see if the price goes down. If it doesn檛, take your business elsewhere.
I recently took my SUV to the dealer for its %26quot;30K service%26quot; based on the recommendations of the manufacturer (mostly just inspections of various items). The total was $175 including labor, supplies, and disposal. I know I probably could save a little taking it to a quick-lube shop, but I prefer being able to take care of warranty items in one stop.
1993 Honda Accord on the Fritz ... Help!!!!?
I have a 1993 Honda accord LX manual with 159k miles on her. Shes been having issues, my mechanic says,
%26quot;your fuel tank is full of crap and its sending that gunk through your fuel injection system, your injectors were so dirty I had a hell of a time cleaning them. Use fuel injection cleaner once a month%26quot;
Two fuel injector cleaners later ... I think she's dying .
Here is what she does. I'll be driving and it suddenly feels as if someone put a 2 ton rock on my car. She starts dropping velocity, and when I hit the accelerator she begins to make these %26quot;popping%26quot; sounds, and just wont accelerate, I think this is called %26quot;lag%26quot; I'm not sure.
My husband has been reading up on Hondas and has changed the EGR valve and turned down the ring in the FITV. But shes still on the fritz.
Does anyone know what to do? and if you think it is my fuel injection, system how can I take it apart to manually clean it?
~Micha~1993 Honda Accord on the Fritz ... Help!!!!?
I will be honest with you, just reading articles on the internet and trying to diagnose your car with that info rarely fixes the problem, actually it costs you more time and money in the long run just throwing parts at it attempting to fix it. I would seriously consider taking it to a reputable repair facility that does engine diagnostics to determine the source of your problem. Usually this costs an hours labor and there is no obligation to get the work done there if you elect not to. Once they find out what the problem is, decide if either you or hubby can repair or if you feel more comfortable having a shop do the repair.1993 Honda Accord on the Fritz ... Help!!!!?
check fuel pressure and exhaust system/one of them is breaking down after it gets hot1993 Honda Accord on the Fritz ... Help!!!!?
is it tuned up...find another opinion
%26quot;your fuel tank is full of crap and its sending that gunk through your fuel injection system, your injectors were so dirty I had a hell of a time cleaning them. Use fuel injection cleaner once a month%26quot;
Two fuel injector cleaners later ... I think she's dying .
Here is what she does. I'll be driving and it suddenly feels as if someone put a 2 ton rock on my car. She starts dropping velocity, and when I hit the accelerator she begins to make these %26quot;popping%26quot; sounds, and just wont accelerate, I think this is called %26quot;lag%26quot; I'm not sure.
My husband has been reading up on Hondas and has changed the EGR valve and turned down the ring in the FITV. But shes still on the fritz.
Does anyone know what to do? and if you think it is my fuel injection, system how can I take it apart to manually clean it?
~Micha~1993 Honda Accord on the Fritz ... Help!!!!?
I will be honest with you, just reading articles on the internet and trying to diagnose your car with that info rarely fixes the problem, actually it costs you more time and money in the long run just throwing parts at it attempting to fix it. I would seriously consider taking it to a reputable repair facility that does engine diagnostics to determine the source of your problem. Usually this costs an hours labor and there is no obligation to get the work done there if you elect not to. Once they find out what the problem is, decide if either you or hubby can repair or if you feel more comfortable having a shop do the repair.1993 Honda Accord on the Fritz ... Help!!!!?
check fuel pressure and exhaust system/one of them is breaking down after it gets hot1993 Honda Accord on the Fritz ... Help!!!!?
is it tuned up...find another opinion
1993 Honda Accord on the Fritz ... HELP!!!?
I have a 1993 Honda accord LX manual with 159k miles on her. Shes been having issues, my mechanic says,
%26quot;your fuel tank is full of crap and its sending that gunk through your fuel injection system, your injectors were so dirty I had a hell of a time cleaning them. Use fuel injection cleaner once a month%26quot;
Two fuel injector cleaners later ... I think she's dying .
Here is what she does. I'll be driving and it suddenly feels as if someone put a 2 ton rock on my car. She starts dropping velocity, and when I hit the accelerator she begins to make these %26quot;popping%26quot; sounds, and just wont accelerate, I think this is called %26quot;lag%26quot; I'm not sure.
My husband has been reading up on Hondas and has changed the EGR valve and turned down the ring in the FITV. But shes still on the fritz.
Does anyone know what to do? and if you think it is my fuel injection, system how can I take it apart to manually clean it?
~Micha~1993 Honda Accord on the Fritz ... HELP!!!?
Sorry, you need a new mechanic.
Unless the check engine light is comming on for an EGR code it is unlikely the problem.
Did he also clean the EGR ports in the intake manifold? If the ports are still plugged, changing the EGR valve won`t do anything.
If your fuel tank was really %26quot;full of crap%26quot; your fuel pump would be the first thing to get plugged up and the car wouldn`t even start.
I recommend getting a proper diagnosis from a honda repair technician or at the very least someone who is qualified to do driveability repairs.1993 Honda Accord on the Fritz ... HELP!!!?
It's not unheard of but your caytilic converter in your exhaust may be pluged.1993 Honda Accord on the Fritz ... HELP!!!?
If the mechanic said the tank was full of junk did they clean the tank? They should've cleaned it and put a new sock on the fuel pick-up. Also did they replace the fuel filter? Usually when the cat gets plugged your car lags all the time.
%26quot;your fuel tank is full of crap and its sending that gunk through your fuel injection system, your injectors were so dirty I had a hell of a time cleaning them. Use fuel injection cleaner once a month%26quot;
Two fuel injector cleaners later ... I think she's dying .
Here is what she does. I'll be driving and it suddenly feels as if someone put a 2 ton rock on my car. She starts dropping velocity, and when I hit the accelerator she begins to make these %26quot;popping%26quot; sounds, and just wont accelerate, I think this is called %26quot;lag%26quot; I'm not sure.
My husband has been reading up on Hondas and has changed the EGR valve and turned down the ring in the FITV. But shes still on the fritz.
Does anyone know what to do? and if you think it is my fuel injection, system how can I take it apart to manually clean it?
~Micha~1993 Honda Accord on the Fritz ... HELP!!!?
Sorry, you need a new mechanic.
Unless the check engine light is comming on for an EGR code it is unlikely the problem.
Did he also clean the EGR ports in the intake manifold? If the ports are still plugged, changing the EGR valve won`t do anything.
If your fuel tank was really %26quot;full of crap%26quot; your fuel pump would be the first thing to get plugged up and the car wouldn`t even start.
I recommend getting a proper diagnosis from a honda repair technician or at the very least someone who is qualified to do driveability repairs.1993 Honda Accord on the Fritz ... HELP!!!?
It's not unheard of but your caytilic converter in your exhaust may be pluged.1993 Honda Accord on the Fritz ... HELP!!!?
If the mechanic said the tank was full of junk did they clean the tank? They should've cleaned it and put a new sock on the fuel pick-up. Also did they replace the fuel filter? Usually when the cat gets plugged your car lags all the time.
I have a Volvo S80 2.4 D5 Diesel, recently it started to have a smokey exhaust, how should I fix it.?
It puts out a cloud of black smoke if I throatle it from start off and it puts out a haze of fine blue smoke sometimes if i am going up hill. its 2003 and just had its filters all changed. Any sugestions, injectors maybe or diesell pump. i added a bottle of diesel cleaner to the fuel tank it helped but next fuel tank fill it was back to it's smokey self.I have a Volvo S80 2.4 D5 Diesel, recently it started to have a smokey exhaust, how should I fix it.?
sounds like your head gasket has blown, the black and blue smoke is engine oil and fuel being burnt, i'd check your engine coolant to see if it's low or leaking, if your engine overheats you might crack or warp the head and this would be very expensive to change.
Check you engine oil level as well to see if its being burnt off.I have a Volvo S80 2.4 D5 Diesel, recently it started to have a smokey exhaust, how should I fix it.?
Check your turbo-charger fins. And everyone else is correct here. Blue means oil being burnt.
When it smokes, the fuel is not being completely burnt, because of either not enough air, or timing problems... So check air delivery, gaskets, injectors, and timing (but if youve never had a problem, disregard that).I have a Volvo S80 2.4 D5 Diesel, recently it started to have a smokey exhaust, how should I fix it.?
Black smoke is fine, it's just what diesels do: The blue could be oil though. I don't know the mileage or history of your engine, it's most likely to need injectors if it's a high mileage (over 150,000), very unlikely to be pump, could possibly be turbo bearings a bit worn.
Keep an eye on it: If it doesn't use oil, don't worry too much.. My old Nissan spews blue smoke on startup every day, but uses no oil or water, never gets any worse..
It won't be a head gasket problem.I have a Volvo S80 2.4 D5 Diesel, recently it started to have a smokey exhaust, how should I fix it.?
probably needs the pump overhauling and the injectorsI have a Volvo S80 2.4 D5 Diesel, recently it started to have a smokey exhaust, how should I fix it.?
Is this engine turbo -charged?I have a Volvo S80 2.4 D5 Diesel, recently it started to have a smokey exhaust, how should I fix it.?
Hi,
Turbo could be leaking oil into the intake system... Iv replace a few of these.. Check all of the rubber intake hoses from the inter-cooler and make sure there not bust... If they were bust you would see black soot were the air blows out the hole.. Also remove on end of one of the inter cooler hoses and look inside for oil leaking... There should be some oil in the pipe but excessive oil would indicate the turbo oil seals are leaking into the intake system...
I wouldn't think the head gaskets the problem..
GET IT REPAIRED
Iv seen some Volvo turbo diesel engines run on the oil that's leaking into the system really bad... Its a scary situation to be in... The engine revs all the way up blue smoke pores out the back and the only way to stop it is to cut off the air supply...
The customer was in with us a few weeks before getting it checked.. We told he she needs a new turbo. She said she cant afford it because she was getting a new kitchen,,
I replaced her engine after it blew while she was grabbing hey young child out of the back in a cloud of blue smoke and a roaring engine that kept going even with the keys removed
Get it checked out if i was you!!whats wrong with my wife clearing up my skin
sounds like your head gasket has blown, the black and blue smoke is engine oil and fuel being burnt, i'd check your engine coolant to see if it's low or leaking, if your engine overheats you might crack or warp the head and this would be very expensive to change.
Check you engine oil level as well to see if its being burnt off.I have a Volvo S80 2.4 D5 Diesel, recently it started to have a smokey exhaust, how should I fix it.?
Check your turbo-charger fins. And everyone else is correct here. Blue means oil being burnt.
When it smokes, the fuel is not being completely burnt, because of either not enough air, or timing problems... So check air delivery, gaskets, injectors, and timing (but if youve never had a problem, disregard that).I have a Volvo S80 2.4 D5 Diesel, recently it started to have a smokey exhaust, how should I fix it.?
Black smoke is fine, it's just what diesels do: The blue could be oil though. I don't know the mileage or history of your engine, it's most likely to need injectors if it's a high mileage (over 150,000), very unlikely to be pump, could possibly be turbo bearings a bit worn.
Keep an eye on it: If it doesn't use oil, don't worry too much.. My old Nissan spews blue smoke on startup every day, but uses no oil or water, never gets any worse..
It won't be a head gasket problem.I have a Volvo S80 2.4 D5 Diesel, recently it started to have a smokey exhaust, how should I fix it.?
probably needs the pump overhauling and the injectorsI have a Volvo S80 2.4 D5 Diesel, recently it started to have a smokey exhaust, how should I fix it.?
Is this engine turbo -charged?I have a Volvo S80 2.4 D5 Diesel, recently it started to have a smokey exhaust, how should I fix it.?
Hi,
Turbo could be leaking oil into the intake system... Iv replace a few of these.. Check all of the rubber intake hoses from the inter-cooler and make sure there not bust... If they were bust you would see black soot were the air blows out the hole.. Also remove on end of one of the inter cooler hoses and look inside for oil leaking... There should be some oil in the pipe but excessive oil would indicate the turbo oil seals are leaking into the intake system...
I wouldn't think the head gaskets the problem..
GET IT REPAIRED
Iv seen some Volvo turbo diesel engines run on the oil that's leaking into the system really bad... Its a scary situation to be in... The engine revs all the way up blue smoke pores out the back and the only way to stop it is to cut off the air supply...
The customer was in with us a few weeks before getting it checked.. We told he she needs a new turbo. She said she cant afford it because she was getting a new kitchen,,
I replaced her engine after it blew while she was grabbing hey young child out of the back in a cloud of blue smoke and a roaring engine that kept going even with the keys removed
Get it checked out if i was you!!
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