Hello. Another question about my 1995 Escort. It is running, but getting poor gas mileage, and I am worried about it. It also is losing power. For some reason, the transmission fluid is dirty. Very weird...
I want to change the FUEL FILTER (I have it I just need someone to put it on,) the FUEL INJECTORS (cant imagine how bad they are,) the SPARK PLUGS (mine are obviously questionable since they were cleaned but are old, I dont trust them,) get my RADIATOR FLUSHED (may be blocked up, time for a real good flushing?) and also get my TRANS SERVICED.
by TRANS SERVICED, I mean the following, after MUCH research:
1) DROP Pan. Old, dirty (purplish, dirty, hard to tell where it is on dipstick, lightly colored, ... its dirty, dont want to overfilll it though) will exit thanks to Gravity.
2) CHANGE or CLEAN the TRANS SCREEN. (I know they have Screens. Cant wait to see how black mine is.)
3) CHANGE the PAN GASKET. (Makes sense.)
4) Change the TRANS FILTER. (I know there is one.)
5) CHANGE my VISIBLE Vacuum Lines. (Makes Sense, I should also get the Vac Lines in the Engine checked too.)
6) FLUSHING NOTHING, put Trans back together (Front Seal looked at, I know it costs a lot to get to) re-fill with 6? Quarts Valvoline MaxLife, and voila, I just Serviced my Trans with appropriate Fluid, giving it a second shot at life, and removing whatever poison is in there now.
I also may have to get the timing of the engine looked at, and after that, it ill be fine.
My car is weird. It hesitates on the highway. -HAS- to downshift to accelerate even moderately, never had to do that before. This Loss of Power is NOT the kind that happens when overheat. Lol, my fan works, my Radiator is full of coolant (I checked that why I want it flushed,) and it appears to be not able to get enough gas... New Air filter is on there.
THe timing of my ignition has also been suspected, and I sort of wonder if the car is running on 3 sylinders? Bad mileage, NO SMOKE, AT ALL. Or smells. Check Engine light is on, and the Battery light came on, but didnt stay on, so its not an Alternator.
I know I have detailed questions, but I wonder if my Game Plan is more or less correct, naturally starting with Fuel Filter and Injector Cleaning.
Is there also a way to remove or check for carbon build-up in the Plenum? Or is that hard to do I have heard of people spraying it with a product that kills the engine and makes the car stall 2 or 3 times and a lot of smoke comes out, but the carbon is gone. What is that product, it may just be that....
Please weigh in here, I do appreciate it, and thank the board for the real answers, not the spam links. Sincerely, Thank You - Joseph
LEVEL 3 NOW!!! :)
PS2: I also do not understand why people say the Transmission never has to be serviced. SOmething has obviously caused my Trans to have dirty fluid, but even in a Trans that has not had an issue as such, an Auto is weaker than a Manual. They get hot, do a lot, and why wouldnt it need a CLEANING even if not a FLUSHING at 150,000 miles.. it makes no sense why people think the Trans does not need maintenance. Maybe that is why they fail. I believe if I get mine within the next 5,000 miles ,although I wanna do it a lot faster than that, I will save it from giving out. Why do people think the Trans is immune when it gets as hot as the engine from all the road heat, even more so it is right over the hot road and other things....My car is using a lot of gas, not as powerful on highway, and has dirty trans fluid. What is wrong?
Hello Joseph,
Wow! You have been doing research. Now lets get to the bottom line.
1)- Codes:
You have a code(s) set and this needs to be checked. The parts house can usually run the codes. You might just have a tune-up problem. Any problem not associated with the possibility of a tune-up needs to be addressed. When a computer reads a sensor that is out of specks it sets a code. There are soft codes and hard codes. When a code is set the computer substitutes a set of variables so the vehicle will continue to function. This is sometimes referred to as cripple in mode. The bottom line is that the vehicle will not perform as designed, and may certainly have a loss of power and get bad fuel mileage. If any codes are possibly the result of needing a tune up do this first, clear the codes, drive, observe, and retest.
2)-Tune up:
a)-plugs, b)-cap, c)-rotor, d)-wires. e)- fuel filter, f)- air filter, and PVC valve. This is part of a normal tune up and corrosion, heat, and normal wear and tear will necessitate this.
Fire needs to get from the coil to the plug in a very specific amount of time. Anything that slows the firing time causes problems. If the fire gets to the top of the cylinder at the right time but the belt has slack, therefore the timing is off, there is still a problem.
A PVC valve stuck open can be a major vaccum leak. Stuck closed and the engine pressure can build up and cause seals and gaskets to blow.
3)- Transmission fluid and filter:
Usually things that get used get dirty. It is a great idea to change the fluid and filter and is a listed maintenance item. I can't imagine anyone saying an auto transmission doesn't need servicing. As transmission bands wear the particles get mixed into the fluid causing the dirty look. The fluid breaks down due to heat and looses viscosity. There is usually a magnet in the bottom of the pan and you may be surprised to find a lot of magnetic gunk there.
4)- Vacuum hoses: Heat breaks down things and hoses crack with age and heat. Vacuum leaks are usually a major cause of minor to major problems. I have seen countless people that drive around with the check engine light on and the cause was found to be a vacuum leak.
5)- Timing belt(timing):
If the timing belt has not been replaced you may get to find about about this in an unplanned repair. A timing belt is made of rubber. An engine compartment has high heat. Belts get old and crack from age and heat. A timing belt has a cover over it so heat buildup can be worse. This is an item that will cause major problems when it breaks. NOTE: I said %26quot;when%26quot; because most people don't worry about it until the day it breaks.
6)- Water pump: DO NOT change the timing belt without replacing the water pump. PLEASE! check into this. The water pump is behind and runs off the timing belt.
7)- Radiator flush: A vehicle that has always had antifreeze ran in it will be in better shape than one with just water sometimes. Tap water is a major long term killer of engines. It is a great idea to flush the engine/radiator, refill with antifreeze, and even add cooling system stop leak.
8) Carbon build up: This can occur in the plenum but worse behind the EGR valve. This can be a problem but will have to be cleaned out manually. Carbon build up behind the valves can be cleaned out with a cleaner or by idling up the engine(mid range)and trickling transmission fluid into the intake. This will cause smoking(temporary), is very effective, but not harmful.
It is also cheaper.
For the record my sister has a 1995 Escort I have been servicing since 1997. It has almost 300,000 miles on it and, other than normal tuneup proceedures, I have replaced the timing belt 3 times, the water pump (which resulted in the 2nd timing belt so experience speaking here), the master cylinder(of course brakes), and a lifter that resulted in the 3rd timing belt.
I feel the car is a phenomenon. Old Escorts were considered throw away vehicles and this one is still running. Hope this helps.My car is using a lot of gas, not as powerful on highway, and has dirty trans fluid. What is wrong?
1 check engine lite means something,,it means scan the computer for codes..
2 before you mess with injectors look/replace plugs and wires
3 your best bet is find a mechanic as it seems you have no clueMy car is using a lot of gas, not as powerful on highway, and has dirty trans fluid. What is wrong?
get a tune up
