I recently purchased a 2000 durango with 89000 miles when I first got it the check engine light came on. I went to Autozone and got codes P0206 and P0306. Changed oil and checked Fuel Ign 6. After wiggling the injector and adding some cleaner. All lights went off. Until wifey drives to work Monday as soon as she exits and slows down the ck gauges light comes on and the oil gauge drops to zero no more than 2-5 seconds than back about normal. No other gauges have this issue. I am thinking it could be a oil pump switch. If so I would have to drop the motor to replace. (If you could see my smile) But before I start I am wondering if anyone have any thoughts why it would do this and how to repair. I double and triple cked my fluids and all is well.2000 Dodge Durango oil gauge dips to 0 at slow downs and brief stops?
It could be a bad sending unit and no you won't have to %26quot;drop the motor%26quot; to change it.
It could also mean you have a plugged pickup screen or worn oil pump, which requires oil pan removal, or worn crankshaft or camshaft bearings which means pull the engine (as opposed to drop).2000 Dodge Durango oil gauge dips to 0 at slow downs and brief stops?
The oil pressure switch should be located around the oil filter area.
Auto zone has a special socket you can use or purchase, it maybe a 15/16 deep well socket
Un clip connection, remove sender/switch, some oil may leak out, only about a half a cup
replace switch and connection2000 Dodge Durango oil gauge dips to 0 at slow downs and brief stops?
Don't know what oil you are using but a lot of people think they should be using a thicker oil. Think of a drinking straw. Is it easier to suck(pump) honey or water. If you are using a 10W-40, I recommend a 5W-30.
But it could be your oil pump.2000 Dodge Durango oil gauge dips to 0 at slow downs and brief stops?
sounds like you have a week oil pump that may be about to go out. If the oil isn't low or to thin.2000 Dodge Durango oil gauge dips to 0 at slow downs and brief stops?
What engine is in it? A 318?
Where is the sending unit located at on your engine?
I had an old Ford 460 once that made very little oil pressure at idle, but personally, I think your sending unit is probably at fault, %26amp; (remember, %26quot;personally%26quot; is the operative word) if that sending unit is truly wedged in somewhere so tight that you are going to have to pull the engine to get at it (%26amp; I can actually see where that could be possible, nothing clean %26amp; sanitary about the new breed under the hood) I would keep driving it with my fingers crossed.
I would think that if you are truly driving with inadequate oil pressure, that engine should be rattling %26amp; giving you some kind of warning.
Good luck.
Thursday, September 22, 2011
How to service a ronson lighter?
i just got an old Ronson varaflame luralite lighter. wondering how to change the flint, add fuel. i believe it uses butane, but on the bottom it states to sue large size ronson multi fill injector. can i use any butane, ive seen some that come with adapters will it fit? any and all help greatly aprpeciated.How to service a ronson lighter?
flint is held in chamber with a screw/spring...unscrew from bottom, slip a new flint in and push the spring back into lighter, tighten the screw. Butane cans have adapter kits...one will fit. Good luck ...You will have to %26quot;seat the flint%26quot; by trying to light, if the wheel freezes, turn backwards a few times and it will work.
flint is held in chamber with a screw/spring...unscrew from bottom, slip a new flint in and push the spring back into lighter, tighten the screw. Butane cans have adapter kits...one will fit. Good luck ...You will have to %26quot;seat the flint%26quot; by trying to light, if the wheel freezes, turn backwards a few times and it will work.
How much HP would i gain from a 4cyl with a electric fan?
hi, i have a WEAK 2.3l ford ranger pick up, and im willing to do a few mods to make it more road useable.
it has a belt driven fan, and im wondering how much HP id gain by switching over to electric. btw i live in colorado, so it doesent get to hot here, and we have very thin air!
its fine in the city, but on the highway its like i hvae to max out every gear to get it up to speed!
ive done all the lil changes, oil, performance air filter, plugs, plug wires, fuel injector cleaner, etc etc.
just trying to think of a couple things to free up some HPHow much HP would i gain from a 4cyl with a electric fan?
Well it's no Powerstroke Diesel, but supposedly it takes up to 50HP to run the fan on one of those... From the articles I've gathered you can see that lots of people are reporting fuel economy increases by switching from engine driven to electric fans. If you can do a %26quot;mod%26quot; that increases fuel economy it must reduce losses somewhere else so it stands to reason that there's been some horsepower that was set free.
Here's a thread where someone reports 2-2.5 MPG increase from switching to electric fan in a 4.3L V-6 S-10 pickup.
http://pavementsucks.com/forums/viewtopi
Here's an article that claims up to 17 HP and 20 Lb*ft torque can be gained by switching to an electric fan. (Flex-A-Lite dyno numbers)
http://www.automedia.com/Electric-Coolin
Another article where they claim a 1-2 MPG increase:
http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2003/
An article that claims 26-30 HP gain on new V8 Ford trucks by switching to electric fan:
http://www.ford-trucks.com/article/idx/0
Here is a link to a fan kit specifically for the Ranger:
http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html/ran
Finally, an article describing fan losses from 19-40 HP on a Chevy V8 and only 1.3 HP loss to drive an alternator at 65A. (65A at 14.4v is 936 watts. 936 watts is equal to 1.25 horsepower, so that sounds right).
http://carnut.com/ramblin/dyno.html
After all that you know that switching to electric will free up some HP, how much is hard to say as I couldn't find any actual dyno sheets. My guess: 10-15 HP and 1-2 MPG gains. One thing to keep in mind if you do this is that you will have to upgrade your alternator because the fan will draw a lot of power when it is on (Up to or beyond 30A)!How much HP would i gain from a 4cyl with a electric fan?
That's a very hard question to answer. The horsepower drain of a fan is a function of rpm: power drain increases with the cube of RPM. However, the fan in your truck may be designed to %26quot;feather%26quot; or %26quot;freewheel%26quot; as engine RPM's increase. These techniques reduce parasitic drag.
An electric fan doesn't eliminate parasitic losses, as the power to drive the electric fan increases load on the alternator. The answer to your question is that it will make some difference, but it's hard to say how much.How much HP would i gain from a 4cyl with a electric fan?
not enough of a difference to noticeHow much HP would i gain from a 4cyl with a electric fan?
About 3 hp plus or minus 1 hp.How much HP would i gain from a 4cyl with a electric fan?
I do not think this is a worthwhile mod. It might net you 2-3 hp tops and will surely lead to other reliablity problems.
You do not say how old the car is, but I'll presume it is old and that the engine is worn out. You might be better off having a valve job done and improving the cylinder sealing if its got some miles on it.
Astrobuf
it has a belt driven fan, and im wondering how much HP id gain by switching over to electric. btw i live in colorado, so it doesent get to hot here, and we have very thin air!
its fine in the city, but on the highway its like i hvae to max out every gear to get it up to speed!
ive done all the lil changes, oil, performance air filter, plugs, plug wires, fuel injector cleaner, etc etc.
just trying to think of a couple things to free up some HPHow much HP would i gain from a 4cyl with a electric fan?
Well it's no Powerstroke Diesel, but supposedly it takes up to 50HP to run the fan on one of those... From the articles I've gathered you can see that lots of people are reporting fuel economy increases by switching from engine driven to electric fans. If you can do a %26quot;mod%26quot; that increases fuel economy it must reduce losses somewhere else so it stands to reason that there's been some horsepower that was set free.
Here's a thread where someone reports 2-2.5 MPG increase from switching to electric fan in a 4.3L V-6 S-10 pickup.
http://pavementsucks.com/forums/viewtopi
Here's an article that claims up to 17 HP and 20 Lb*ft torque can be gained by switching to an electric fan. (Flex-A-Lite dyno numbers)
http://www.automedia.com/Electric-Coolin
Another article where they claim a 1-2 MPG increase:
http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2003/
An article that claims 26-30 HP gain on new V8 Ford trucks by switching to electric fan:
http://www.ford-trucks.com/article/idx/0
Here is a link to a fan kit specifically for the Ranger:
http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html/ran
Finally, an article describing fan losses from 19-40 HP on a Chevy V8 and only 1.3 HP loss to drive an alternator at 65A. (65A at 14.4v is 936 watts. 936 watts is equal to 1.25 horsepower, so that sounds right).
http://carnut.com/ramblin/dyno.html
After all that you know that switching to electric will free up some HP, how much is hard to say as I couldn't find any actual dyno sheets. My guess: 10-15 HP and 1-2 MPG gains. One thing to keep in mind if you do this is that you will have to upgrade your alternator because the fan will draw a lot of power when it is on (Up to or beyond 30A)!How much HP would i gain from a 4cyl with a electric fan?
That's a very hard question to answer. The horsepower drain of a fan is a function of rpm: power drain increases with the cube of RPM. However, the fan in your truck may be designed to %26quot;feather%26quot; or %26quot;freewheel%26quot; as engine RPM's increase. These techniques reduce parasitic drag.
An electric fan doesn't eliminate parasitic losses, as the power to drive the electric fan increases load on the alternator. The answer to your question is that it will make some difference, but it's hard to say how much.How much HP would i gain from a 4cyl with a electric fan?
not enough of a difference to noticeHow much HP would i gain from a 4cyl with a electric fan?
About 3 hp plus or minus 1 hp.How much HP would i gain from a 4cyl with a electric fan?
I do not think this is a worthwhile mod. It might net you 2-3 hp tops and will surely lead to other reliablity problems.
You do not say how old the car is, but I'll presume it is old and that the engine is worn out. You might be better off having a valve job done and improving the cylinder sealing if its got some miles on it.
Astrobuf
How to fix a car sputtering or cutting out?
I have a 2002 Ford focus, and as of late it has been sputtering or cutting out. It has been very rainy lately, and it almost seems like something might be getting wet, because the sputtering does decrease (but not stop entirely) after I am on the road for a bit.
It does sputter and cut out a lot when I first get going though. I am not very mechanically literate, but someone suggested %26quot;something%26quot; may be getting wet, yet this started recently and has not done it during past rainstorms.
I did put in fuel injector cleaner to see if that was the problem but no change.
I changed the sparkplugs about a year ago, and that seemed to fix what was a very slight sputter then. I gapped the plugs appropriately, using the gap tool. But I did not change the connector cables. Could this be the problem?
Any other suggestions, and how to troubleshoot and fix the problem would be greatly appreciated.How to fix a car sputtering or cutting out?
all i can think of is to make sure u have the right octane of fuel in the tank, and check the hose from the air filter box to the engine intake, there might be cracks or small holes in it . too much air intake causes sputtering because the air/fuel mixture is not right. check those 2 key areas and that should helpHow to fix a car sputtering or cutting out?
a crack in the filter box is also possible
First, locate remove and clean out thoroughly your IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE. It is on top of or near your throttle body. Clean the throttle body, too. Use Gum-out spray. Use it with engine off and with engine on. If you had to gap your spark plugs, you are using the WRONG plugs. Install a set of Nippondenso Iridium or Twin Tip plugs. You will be amazed at the power increase and MPG improvement. These plugs require no gapping!!! Do NOT bother to change your spark plug wires, they should last the lifetime of the car! (unless they get chewed on by angry squirrels.)
It does sputter and cut out a lot when I first get going though. I am not very mechanically literate, but someone suggested %26quot;something%26quot; may be getting wet, yet this started recently and has not done it during past rainstorms.
I did put in fuel injector cleaner to see if that was the problem but no change.
I changed the sparkplugs about a year ago, and that seemed to fix what was a very slight sputter then. I gapped the plugs appropriately, using the gap tool. But I did not change the connector cables. Could this be the problem?
Any other suggestions, and how to troubleshoot and fix the problem would be greatly appreciated.How to fix a car sputtering or cutting out?
all i can think of is to make sure u have the right octane of fuel in the tank, and check the hose from the air filter box to the engine intake, there might be cracks or small holes in it . too much air intake causes sputtering because the air/fuel mixture is not right. check those 2 key areas and that should helpHow to fix a car sputtering or cutting out?
a crack in the filter box is also possible
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How to fix a car sputtering or cutting out?First, locate remove and clean out thoroughly your IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE. It is on top of or near your throttle body. Clean the throttle body, too. Use Gum-out spray. Use it with engine off and with engine on. If you had to gap your spark plugs, you are using the WRONG plugs. Install a set of Nippondenso Iridium or Twin Tip plugs. You will be amazed at the power increase and MPG improvement. These plugs require no gapping!!! Do NOT bother to change your spark plug wires, they should last the lifetime of the car! (unless they get chewed on by angry squirrels.)
Fuel questions for 91 civic 1.5 liter?
My civic is getting worse. I know enough about engines to be dangerous. When the problem started I suspected an old ignition system so I changed everything.. cap, rotor, wires and plugs. No changes.
What it does is if you drive at a constant speed it stutters and loses power.
My next thought is it might be injectors. This car has a throttle body with two injectors. What I have to do to drive without sputtering down the road is accelerate very fast to the speed I want, then coast until I lose 5 or 10 mph, then give it the gas real hard until i get back up to speed and then coast again.
It kind of seems like one of the injectors might not be doing it's job due to the fact that when I give it a lot of gas and it needs to use both injectors its fine, but when I smooth out and try to hold a constant speed and only the primary injector is needed it sputters. (My logic of how the injectors work and when in this throttle body may be very wrong.. I said I knew enough to be dangerous)
If anyone has any (helpful) opinions on what might be wrong or what else I should check before shelling out money for new parts that may or may not fix the problem I would really appreciate it.
Oh.. almost forgot.. When the car is cold and I start it it skips and sputters very badly until it warms up. It idles very nice after its warm.. doesn't overheat..accelerates fine until you get into higher rpm's (4500 or so) then it skips and sputters unless you put your foot on the floor.
I know there are some honda ppl out there who know exactly what is wrong. Show me how much you know about Honda's and save me some time and money and possibly a long walk in the snow when it finally does take a diveFuel questions for 91 civic 1.5 liter?
I had the same problem on my civic. Although i never got it fixed i was suspicious of the (tps) throttle positioning sensor. I would have it at cruise speed maintaining it and it would sputter. then i would punch it and it would react.
I went through hell. i chipped the ecu, i changed like two sets of cables, rotor cap. i even took out the distributor and it was all good. i changed fuel pump, fuel filters.. you name it i changed. it.
The best thing you can do to pin point the problem is to take it in to a shop where they can run a diagnostic check up on it. that way you wont end up spending so much money like i did!
Good luck and if you ever find out what it was email me, im curious!Fuel questions for 91 civic 1.5 liter?
Change your fuel filter and replace the service screw with a fuel pressure gauge when you re-install it. A fuel filter is $12 and a fuel pressure gauge is around the same but will easily tell you whether you have adequate fuel pressure. You should have between 30-40 PSI of fuel pressure when you initially prime the fuel pump.
This will eliminate a clogged fuel filter and tell you whether or not your fuel pump is going bad.
As far as the idle goes, you should check/clean the idle air control valve and test the fast idle thermo valve per the service manual directions.Fuel questions for 91 civic 1.5 liter?
I would try unplugging the map sensor and see if it makes any difference at all. if that does not work try replacing the whole intake manifold you can find dpfi manifolds on ebay, junkyards, or parts cars for under 50 they dont go for much there not in demandhow to break up with a girl irish boy name
What it does is if you drive at a constant speed it stutters and loses power.
My next thought is it might be injectors. This car has a throttle body with two injectors. What I have to do to drive without sputtering down the road is accelerate very fast to the speed I want, then coast until I lose 5 or 10 mph, then give it the gas real hard until i get back up to speed and then coast again.
It kind of seems like one of the injectors might not be doing it's job due to the fact that when I give it a lot of gas and it needs to use both injectors its fine, but when I smooth out and try to hold a constant speed and only the primary injector is needed it sputters. (My logic of how the injectors work and when in this throttle body may be very wrong.. I said I knew enough to be dangerous)
If anyone has any (helpful) opinions on what might be wrong or what else I should check before shelling out money for new parts that may or may not fix the problem I would really appreciate it.
Oh.. almost forgot.. When the car is cold and I start it it skips and sputters very badly until it warms up. It idles very nice after its warm.. doesn't overheat..accelerates fine until you get into higher rpm's (4500 or so) then it skips and sputters unless you put your foot on the floor.
I know there are some honda ppl out there who know exactly what is wrong. Show me how much you know about Honda's and save me some time and money and possibly a long walk in the snow when it finally does take a diveFuel questions for 91 civic 1.5 liter?
I had the same problem on my civic. Although i never got it fixed i was suspicious of the (tps) throttle positioning sensor. I would have it at cruise speed maintaining it and it would sputter. then i would punch it and it would react.
I went through hell. i chipped the ecu, i changed like two sets of cables, rotor cap. i even took out the distributor and it was all good. i changed fuel pump, fuel filters.. you name it i changed. it.
The best thing you can do to pin point the problem is to take it in to a shop where they can run a diagnostic check up on it. that way you wont end up spending so much money like i did!
Good luck and if you ever find out what it was email me, im curious!Fuel questions for 91 civic 1.5 liter?
Change your fuel filter and replace the service screw with a fuel pressure gauge when you re-install it. A fuel filter is $12 and a fuel pressure gauge is around the same but will easily tell you whether you have adequate fuel pressure. You should have between 30-40 PSI of fuel pressure when you initially prime the fuel pump.
This will eliminate a clogged fuel filter and tell you whether or not your fuel pump is going bad.
As far as the idle goes, you should check/clean the idle air control valve and test the fast idle thermo valve per the service manual directions.Fuel questions for 91 civic 1.5 liter?
I would try unplugging the map sensor and see if it makes any difference at all. if that does not work try replacing the whole intake manifold you can find dpfi manifolds on ebay, junkyards, or parts cars for under 50 they dont go for much there not in demand
Fuel questions for 91 civic 1.5 liter?
My civic is getting worse. I know enough about engines to be dangerous. When the problem started I suspected an old ignition system so I changed everything.. cap, rotor, wires and plugs. No changes.
What it does is if you drive at a constant speed it stutters and loses power.
My next thought is it might be injectors. This car has a throttle body with two injectors. What I have to do to drive without sputtering down the road is accelerate very fast to the speed I want, then coast until I lose 5 or 10 mph, then give it the gas real hard until i get back up to speed and then coast again.
It kind of seems like one of the injectors might not be doing it's job due to the fact that when I give it a lot of gas and it needs to use both injectors its fine, but when I smooth out and try to hold a constant speed and only the primary injector is needed it sputters. (My logic of how the injectors work and when in this throttle body may be very wrong.. I said I knew enough to be dangerous)
If anyone has any (helpful) opinions on what might be wrong or what else I should check before shelling out money for new parts that may or may not fix the problem I would really appreciate it.
Oh.. almost forgot.. When the car is cold and I start it it skips and sputters very badly until it warms up. It idles very nice after its warm.. doesn't overheat..accelerates fine until you get into higher rpm's (4500 or so) then it skips and sputters unless you put your foot on the floor.
I know there are some honda ppl out there who know exactly what is wrong. Show me how much you know about Honda's and save me some time and money and possibly a long walk in the snow when it finally does take a diveFuel questions for 91 civic 1.5 liter?
Apart from anything else, those cars were known for defective %26quot;ignitors%26quot; which is called an ignition module on many other cars. Many cars of that vintage probably had a new distributor installed by now which may be the best way to get a new ignitor. Then you'll know it's not an ignition problem. The distributors also failed due to bad bearings. Never crank your engine with any spark plug wires disconnected or the cap removed. You can blow out the ignitor and coil.Fuel questions for 91 civic 1.5 liter?
Remove all four plugs and inspect for signs of a lean setting or a rich setting in regards to fuel flow.
What it does is if you drive at a constant speed it stutters and loses power.
My next thought is it might be injectors. This car has a throttle body with two injectors. What I have to do to drive without sputtering down the road is accelerate very fast to the speed I want, then coast until I lose 5 or 10 mph, then give it the gas real hard until i get back up to speed and then coast again.
It kind of seems like one of the injectors might not be doing it's job due to the fact that when I give it a lot of gas and it needs to use both injectors its fine, but when I smooth out and try to hold a constant speed and only the primary injector is needed it sputters. (My logic of how the injectors work and when in this throttle body may be very wrong.. I said I knew enough to be dangerous)
If anyone has any (helpful) opinions on what might be wrong or what else I should check before shelling out money for new parts that may or may not fix the problem I would really appreciate it.
Oh.. almost forgot.. When the car is cold and I start it it skips and sputters very badly until it warms up. It idles very nice after its warm.. doesn't overheat..accelerates fine until you get into higher rpm's (4500 or so) then it skips and sputters unless you put your foot on the floor.
I know there are some honda ppl out there who know exactly what is wrong. Show me how much you know about Honda's and save me some time and money and possibly a long walk in the snow when it finally does take a diveFuel questions for 91 civic 1.5 liter?
Apart from anything else, those cars were known for defective %26quot;ignitors%26quot; which is called an ignition module on many other cars. Many cars of that vintage probably had a new distributor installed by now which may be the best way to get a new ignitor. Then you'll know it's not an ignition problem. The distributors also failed due to bad bearings. Never crank your engine with any spark plug wires disconnected or the cap removed. You can blow out the ignitor and coil.Fuel questions for 91 civic 1.5 liter?
Remove all four plugs and inspect for signs of a lean setting or a rich setting in regards to fuel flow.
Uk volvo started over-fueling?
the last thing you want to do in america is let an american mech.work on your volvo.has anyone had a problem with 89 740 turbo over fueling?not pressure reg.not injectors.both fuel pumps check ok too.
how bout,oil seperator?didn't start until,i let a shop change my oil and a few miles down the road it started over-fueling.found out they over filled oil by 2 1/2 qts.Uk volvo started over-fueling?
Get your MAP sensor checked manifold absolute pressure sensor.This feeds information to your engine ECU if because your eng was overfilled with oil it has got into this system that will cause it to over fuel.Also what about your lambda sensor i think in USA you refer to it as an oxygen sensor this if contaminated by oil will cause over fuelling.Regards Mick UK.PS also check your air cleaner it has a MAT valve manifold air temp valve this could have also become contaminated by oil.Uk volvo started over-fueling?
Glad to be of help would like to hear more from you or your family Mick UK.
Thats the crappy mechanics that we get these days, took my car in for a service and they forgot to bleed my brakes, the apprentice moves it to the car wash presses the brakes, no brakes, bang into the wall, now i must wait 2 weeks to get my car fixed at the panelbeaters, idiots.!!!
how bout,oil seperator?didn't start until,i let a shop change my oil and a few miles down the road it started over-fueling.found out they over filled oil by 2 1/2 qts.Uk volvo started over-fueling?
Get your MAP sensor checked manifold absolute pressure sensor.This feeds information to your engine ECU if because your eng was overfilled with oil it has got into this system that will cause it to over fuel.Also what about your lambda sensor i think in USA you refer to it as an oxygen sensor this if contaminated by oil will cause over fuelling.Regards Mick UK.PS also check your air cleaner it has a MAT valve manifold air temp valve this could have also become contaminated by oil.Uk volvo started over-fueling?
Glad to be of help would like to hear more from you or your family Mick UK.
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Uk volvo started over-fueling?Thats the crappy mechanics that we get these days, took my car in for a service and they forgot to bleed my brakes, the apprentice moves it to the car wash presses the brakes, no brakes, bang into the wall, now i must wait 2 weeks to get my car fixed at the panelbeaters, idiots.!!!
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