Auto question?

I need to know how to change intake manifold on a

1993 buick regal 3.1 multiport . most of the time it runs bad and smells like gas, and after it worms up, once in a while it will run good for about a mile or two and then it will start to run bad again . it over heated and we had some work done to it and then it ran good for about a year and all at once it started running bad. the catalatic converter was getting fire red so took it off thinking that was the problem. and i also noticed that

alot of black stuff was in the top cover that the air filter runs into.on top of the engine the fuel injectors are undernieth this cover. what can i do to fix this problem i have put a grat deal of money in this car i have had it since it was new and it still looks new. i really want to keep on driving this car it has 129,000 miles on it. helpAuto question?
What makes you think the intake manifold is the problem? What I would do is to go to the local auto parts store and pick up the repair book on this car. They are very detailed and will walk you thought step by step on how to replace, remove, and reinstall the intake. Sounds like there are other problems with it other then just the intake (assuming that the intake does have a problem) if the cat was getting red hot it would seem that the car is not getting enough fuel. If you smell gas you may have a fuel leak or a bad plug. Both of these would cause the car to run rough. The black stuff in the air cleaner could be carbon build up that is getting pushed though the PCV system in to the air cleaner. Check you PCV valve to see if it is clogged.Auto question?
your problem with your catalytic converter is likely caused by a lean condition in your engine and you probably need a tune up. but the intake gasket problems with these cars are notorious. the job takes about 4.5 hours straight by a trained technician. it involves removing both uper and lower plenums and valve covers and is not something you can accomplish with just regular hand tools, there are torque specs, and small hand tools required to finish the job.



i recommend getting a mechanic to do that one, and while they are working on it, they can check for fuel leaks etc. because it will be up on the hoist afterwards to do a mandatory oil change after working inside of the engine.

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Car Hesitates During Acceleration?

I have a 1992 Eagle Talon Turbo. Every now and again it hesitates to go. Sometimes it is worse than others. We have changed so many things multiple times and we can not figure out the problem. It goes through spark plugs like no other. I have an air/fuel gauge and it seems to never run rich or lean. We ended up changing the plugs and wires and also put a K%26amp;N filter on it. She ran awesome for about 3 weeks, then started hesitating again. We have changed every sensor. Checked all the injectors, new fuel pump and filter. We also changed the MAF. The only thing we have not done is the timing and thats because we dont know how. Also, how do you check for low fuel pressure?? It seems like the car is either not getting enough air or enough fuel. I would love the help!!Car Hesitates During Acceleration?
OK, you must really love this car, I would just get rid of it, but if but if you want to keep it then you must understand that most of the stuff you changed is control by the computer, so that's what I would have changed first. Everything starts there. good luck.Car Hesitates During Acceleration?
Did you flush the injectors? Wouldn't hurt to try some injector flush



TEST the timing belt



easy thign to do

http://www.misterfixit.com/chanslop.htm





So many stuff..check the accelerator cable... your converter could be plugged





Try to get it to run for 1hr at a time then sell the damn thing and get a used Porsche Carrera for yourself babydoll

QUESTION ABOUT VW TRANSPORTER VAN. IT GOES OFF WHEN THE ENGINE IS HOT!?

I have a VW transporter van. It started normally when it is cold but as soon as the engine is getting hotter, the engine suddenly stop. My technician told me it was the fuel pump. The situation continued even after replacing the fuel pump. Another technician said I should change the engine from injector system to carburetor. I don't like thi idea. How can I solve this engine stop problem?QUESTION ABOUT VW TRANSPORTER VAN. IT GOES OFF WHEN THE ENGINE IS HOT!?
You have to see whats not happening hot, no spark? no fuel? or too hot? the injector type system uses an engine temperature sensor and others to control fuel. it also has a way for checking trouble codes for these sensors. a bad sensor usually gives you an engine light, deferent year cars have different ways of getting codes, I'm not sure how to get codes from yours, but I think your problem is more likely a spark control module that the German's called an igniter. igniters control coil and you loose spark when they fail. at the beginning of their failure they work cold but stop allowing spark as they heat upQUESTION ABOUT VW TRANSPORTER VAN. IT GOES OFF WHEN THE ENGINE IS HOT!?
Have the fuel pressure regulator checked,and also have them

check for any sources that could be giving you a vapor lock,the

fuel boiling in a line close to a heat source such as the exhaust.

Why is my car stuttering?

OK, I'm going to be as specific as possible. I have a 2000 KIA Spectra stick shift that I bought with around 70k miles in it that had been parked for about 2yrs.

A few days ago it started stuttering a little bit, especially when I got on the highway, 5th gear and tried to go past 65mph.

2 days ago i had to make a 150m trip and that's when it really started to go wrong. The car started to stutter and feel as if it was carrying a lot of weight, or as it was being pulled. I actually got to the point where the gas pedal would touch the floor but the car would not go past 65mph. at some point, i got it to go faster than that but then it would start stuttering again and the speed and rpm would start going down, even as i pressed the gas pedal. the Check Engine Light was flashing.

I had the car diagnosed with the little computer and all it said was cylinder misfire. someone suggested it might be the fuel injectors being dirty because the car had been stopped for 2yrs. i had them cleaned but that didn't solve the problem. at some point, as i was driving i noticed a smell like burnt vanilla (sorry, i don't know how else to describe it) and noticed smoke coming out from underneath the stick shift and the emergency break lever. I've used high octane fuel, gas cleaning treatment but now it has gotten to the point where it barely accelerates in first gear. This happens as the car gets fully warmed up... it doesn't act while it's cold.

The 150m trip took me 6 hours because i had to constantly stop to let the car cool down so it wouldn't stutter. (it doesn't overheat).

something else that i think it's peculiar is that it was eating up the gas. i filled it up twice in 2 days... i'm guessing is from pushing the pedal so much to get it to normal speed...



sorry for the lengthy question but i really want to solve this problem as soon as possible.



any ideas? somebody suggested to change the spark plugs, but after paying Midas $85 to clean the fuel injectors, i want to make sure that whatever i do will help solve the problem.Why is my car stuttering?
By the description of the symptoms you are giving, it sounds like it is a good possibility that the catalytic convertor is going bad. They will do what you are saying about ok when cold but bad when hot. This will rob your car of considerable power and will at some time leave you totally stranded.Why is my car stuttering?
Not enough facts Mate - is it by any chance a left-hand drive?Why is my car stuttering?
since it'e been sitting for 2years. all the fluids are dried up and sluggish and the belts are dried up too. the gas is not good after two years and needed to be replaced before driving. basically every part on the car is dried w/out the lubrication when the car is driven daily. the cylinders might have dirt and dried geese inside the walls and causing problems. the battery is probably dead or really weak. everything on the car needs to be replace such as the fluids, belts,gas,oil, and battery recharge. since the car was sitting so long w/out being driven everything such as fluids settled to the bottom and became junk. have the basic replace and the car should be good as new. have a mechanic look at it. cheers

Was getting 32-33 MPG - now I'm getting 22, and the IDLE speed is VERY high?

Hello,

I have a beater, 1995 Saturn SL1. 4 cylinder, 5 spd stick shift, single over head cam. Been a great, reliable car, but ...



In the last 2 weeks, the fuel economy went from 32-34 mpg to about 22-23 mpg. There has been no change in my route, driving behavior, etc... just getting BAD fuel economy. And this fuel consumption comes with a symptom of a high idle speed (1700 RPMs) but only when the car is rolling.



That's right.. weird... let me detail this out:



Three weeks ago, if I kicked in the clutch at, say, 30 mph to prepare for a stop, the RPMs would drop to about 700 as I rolled down to a stop. NOW.... if I kick in the clutch, the RPMs hover very steadily at 1700 RPM. The darn thing will NOT drop down until I come to a complete stop, and have held the car at a full stop, for about 2-3 seconds. This just started 2 weeks ago - and that's when the mileage went to pot.



One more thing - if I'm stopped, and lets say I'm on a downward hill, the RPMs are at 900 (as low as it's goes now) and I let my foot off the brake, and just start coasting - without touching the gas or letting the clutch out, as soon as I start rolling, the RPMs jump up to 1700 RPM.



Anyone got any ideas? I'm thinking fuel injection, but perhaps there's a simple speed sensor or something like that? Maybe a sensor in the throttle body or intake is telling the computer to push more fuel???



I'm pretty handy around the cars/engines. Not a mechanic, but definitely shade tree mechanic material so feel free to get a little technical. You can definitely assume I know how an engine works, and plan to fix/replace stuff myself until I find the fix.



Car has 160k miles on it. Original fuel injectors, fuel pump, etc. It's been very reliable, well maintained. This is the first real %26quot;problem%26quot; that isn't maintenance.



Thanks in advance...Was getting 32-33 MPG - now I%26039;m getting 22, and the IDLE speed is VERY high?
Sounds to me that it is more of a problem with your Mass Air Flow sensor, that sensor sends a value based on the air intake which allows your cars ECU to regulate your fuel to air ratios. If it is malfunctioning it could result in your car running rich (dumping more fuel than needed), in turn this would also result in your engine working harder to burn the fuel, hints the high rpms to keep running when idle. Any way its just an avenue to investigate, good luck to yaWas getting 32-33 MPG - now I%26039;m getting 22, and the IDLE speed is VERY high?
It could be as simple as the thermostat: stuck open, the engine will take forever to warm up, and it will be running rich. Any unusual behavior at the temperature gauge?



Another possibility: the %26quot;air mass meter%26quot;. This is a device that measures the amount of air flowing through the intake, and sends a signal to the computer. A wrong indication might also cause a too-rich mixture.

I have a 1995 LeBaron GTC, and it keeps stalling while I'm driving, but starts right up. How do I fix it?

I have done a tune up, changed the oil, and replaced the fuel filter as well as the air filter. I think it usually stalls when I am slowing down, or at least not accelerating or going fast but it does seem to have an element of randomness to it.



Also, I've used dry gas and injector cleaner as well already.I have a 1995 LeBaron GTC, and it keeps stalling while I%26039;m driving, but starts right up. How do I fix it?
This engine has the turbo charger on it correct? You problem is the Blow off Valve for the turbo. It's not opening when you release the fuel pedal. the turbo is still forcing air in to the engine which creates a too lean condition(too much air, not enough fuel). have the blow by valve checked and replaced. it should resolve your issue.I have a 1995 LeBaron GTC, and it keeps stalling while I%26039;m driving, but starts right up. How do I fix it?
I've had Plymouth/Dodge/Chryslers for years, and one thing I've learned to check is something called a breather pad.

My car's symptoms would be stalling after it was fully warmed up, like coming off a freeway to the first light/stopsign. It would start right up, but it was a concern. Since you didn't mention the pad, I thought I would. They usually don't begin to act up for years, then it starts. Won't be very expensive, or hard to do yourself.I have a 1995 LeBaron GTC, and it keeps stalling while I%26039;m driving, but starts right up. How do I fix it?
What you have is hard to trace down. First the Cam sensor needs a lab scope put on it and see if the [attern is right. Once you do that detemine if the crank sensor is scoping ok. If both check out okay replace the auto shut down relay this is a inexspensive part. If that doesnt take care of it it most likely is the engine control computer, These are typically under 200 usd aftermarket. Its pretty simple to install and doesnt req programming like later models do hope this helps.I have a 1995 LeBaron GTC, and it keeps stalling while I%26039;m driving, but starts right up. How do I fix it?
your rpm could be going too low when you are not hitting the gas. before you find a solution you may have to drive 2-footed to keep your car from stalling. this means using one foot for the gas and one for brake. when you are breaking you still press the gas a little to keep the rpm at a rate that won't stall. This is difficult so if you do this, proceed with caution



my dad temporarily fixed this by adjusting the idle (when the gas is not pressed, this is the rpm that keeps the car running), but this caused problems in the long run so only do this once, not multiple times. talk to a mechanic and tell them you have a problem that your rpm is going too low and causing your car to stall and ask them what they suggest.

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1990 honda crx problem help.?

Ok so my crx (1990 honda crx) was throwing a code 16 and won檛 start.

Here is what I have done so far.

1. Replaced spark plugs, wires, distributor rotors, and cap.

2. Replaced Battery.

3. Replaced fuel filter.

4. Replaced fuel pump.



How problem started.

Problem started about 4 months ago. The car would run find while driving but once I turn the car off, it would not start. I would try a few times and then battery would die, and I would have to jump start the car. Every time I jumped it, it would start right up.

It got to the point where the car would start, and I would drive it, and when I turned it off, it wouldn檛 start for a few days. After about a day or 2, it would start right up again and repeat same process over and over.

Fixing process.

I finally decided to tune it up a bit. I did a full oil change, replaced the spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotors, and fuel filter. After that, it started right up again and ran find for about a day. On the second day, the problem came back again. I noticed that when starting the car, the check engine light would come on. Now when you first turn the key to the on position, the check engine light and all the other lights come on, I know this. But it goes off. What I am saying is during the starting process the check engine light comes on again. So I looked at the ecu and it was throwing code 16, which has to do with the fuel injectors. I was told to test the injectors?resistance with an ohm meter. The primary injector should be showing between 0.6 and 1.6 ohms, and the auxiliary should be showing between 0.6 and 10 ohms. I tested them, and both seem to be good.

I finally decided to get a fuel system cleaner. I put cleaner in and got the car to start. I ran the car all day without turning it off just in case. I even took it on the free way and ran it at high speed. After that, I turned the car off, and let it sit for about 18 hours. It was about 9pm at night and it was cold so I decided it was a good time to test the car. I tried to start it and it started right up with no hesitation. I then turned it off and tried it again just to make sure, and it started right up. So I drove it for about 5 minutes and then parked it again and turned it off and tried to start it again and it started right up again with no problem. So I figured the problem was fixed. The next morning, I went to do one last test. I tried to start it and it started find again, so I took it for another drive. While I was driving the car sounded like it ran out of gas and just died. I tried over and over to start it but best I could get it to do is start and then die 2 seconds later.

I towed it home and tried to diagnose the problem again. First I checked the fuel filter and it had some dirt in it so I washed it out with gas. I put it back on and tried to start the car and still no luck. I took it off again and noticed there was no fuel going to the car anymore. I noticed I couldn檛 hear the fuel pump either so I replaced the fuel pump. I turned the keys to the on position and waited a few minutes then checked the fuel line again to see if it had fuel in it and it had plenty lol. But I still can檛 get car to start. So now I am back here again looking for help to see what could be the problem. I am still getting code 16 on my euc. What i was thinking is to replace the injectors one at a time to see which one was causing the problem. If anyone has any other ideas, Please let me know i am stuck lol.1990 honda crx problem help.?
Ignition module is more than likely faulty. Common problem on 90s hondas. Located under the cap inside the distributor.